National Post (National Edition)
Fashion’s ‘new source of luxury’: leatherwear made from human skin.
HOW CLONED DNA FROM THE LATE ALEXANDER McQUEEN IS BEING USED TO MAKE LEATHERWEAR
Even though British fashion legend Alexander McQueen died six years ago, his skin may soon be getting a second life.
A recent graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins College, McQueen’s alma mater, is working on a project that uses DNA extracted from the late designer’s hair to grow leather that mimics his skin — including distinctive tattoos and freckles — to make chic bags and jackets.
“The project is speculating how big corporations can exploit genetic information as a new source of luxury,” said Tina Gorjanc, the creator behind the controversial collection. “It addresses the problematic when it comes to defining the ownership of the information and its inheritance.”
The prototype collection features a tanned tote bag, a freckle drawstring backpack and a tattooed biker jacket. All the fashion pieces have physical qualities that were unique to McQueen’s skin.
The proposed leatherwear line, which was unveiled in June at the art school’s graduation show, is based on a process called de-extinction. The procedure extracts genetic information from a source, like preserved hair or bone, and uses the information to biologically program an already exiting skin draft, Gorjanc said.
“After that, the skin grows using the mentioned genetic information, which means that the growing tissue then mimics the tissue of the original source.”
Gorjanc collected samples of McQueen’s hair from his 1992 collection, Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, in which he sewed his own locks into garment labels. The eccentric designer did so as a reference to the prostitutes who would sell their hair during the Victorian era.
While Gorjanc’s prototypes are made from pigskin, she’s made skin-like samples from lab tests that she’s applied to patent. The patent is based on McQueen’s “genetic information as a source of a procedure that results in laboratory-grown leather made from human tissue,” as it is not possible to patent the DNA itself.
“The purpose of the patent is to promote the issue that products made out of genetic information are still patentable,” she said.
The project was inspired by Henrietta Lacks, whose cancer cells were removed in 1951, and used for research without her consent. Gorjanc said Pure Human is intended to raise questions about how a person’s DNA can be used, and how this information is not well-guarded.
“Because of the lack of legislation surrounding the protection of genetic materials, I wanted to showcase how someone can gain hold of biological material from sources you would usually think are extremely protected,” she said.
McQueen, who took his own life in 2010, was known for his provocative designs and avant-garde thinking. While it is impossible to know if he would have approved of this project, Gorjanc said the collection is not intended for commercial sale.
“I can completely understand that people who were close to the designer could feel distressed,” she said. “I would personally feel distressed and that is the main reasons why I want to showcase the issue.”