Stocking up on soup

If you are looking for comfort food or even just a delicious, easy dinner that will warm you up as winter approaches, here are three hearty main course soups, Bonnie Stern writes.

Vietnamese Pho is said to have evolved from France’s ‘pot au feu’ when the French ruled Vietnam in the beginning of the 20th century (thus the proper pronunciation of “pho” being “feu”). Both are usually made with beef and/or chicken but delicious also with fish. Cook fish separately to keep broth clear or, to save time and pans, cook fish in the broth. 8 cups fish or light chicken stock 1 cinnamon stick, broken in half 1 star anise 1 stalk lemon grass, white part only, smashed

a few roots or thick stems of fresh cilantro 1” piece fresh ginger, smashed 6 small carrots, halved lengthwise 1 leek, white and light green part, well-cleaned and cut into 1/2” rounds 16 snow peas, trimmed 6 small bok choy, halved lengthwise 4 oz. thin rice noodles — optional 6 4oz skinless, boneless salmon fillets (or halibut, haddock, etc.), about 1” thick

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

all or some fresh cilantro, mint and Thai basil leaves

3 green onions, thinly sliced on the diagonal

6 lime wedges

1. In a wide saucepan combine stock, cinnamon stick, star anise, lemon grass, cilantro roots or stems and ginger. Bring to a boil and simmer very gently 25 to 30 minutes.

2. Place noodles in a bowl and pour boiling water over to cover generously. Let stand 10 to 15 minutes until tender. Drain well. Place fish on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Season with salt and pepper. Roast in a preheated 425F oven 5 to 7 minutes until just cooked through.

3. Remove seasonings from stock. Add carrots and leeks. Cook 10 minutes until carrots are almost tender. Add snow peas and bok choy and cook 2 minutes longer.

4. Divide noodles between 6 large soup bowls. Add carrots, leeks, snow peas and bok choy. Add fish to broth gently just to reheat. Add a piece of fish to each bowl. Ladle in hot broth. Top with herbs.

Makes 6 servings

PETER J. THOMPSON / NATIONAL POST Bonnie Stern’s Pot au Pho with Salmon.