National Post (National Edition)
Bonnie Stern’s best Oslo-inspired recipes.
NORDIC CONCEPT OF HYGGE INSPIRES RECIPES TO BRING ON WARM, COSY FEELINGS
Oslo is full of surprises. From cafés to fine dining with Michelin stars, Norwegian restaurants are excellent and welcoming. Beyond merely eating, the enormous Mathallen Food Hall is world class, art projects popup throughout the city, walking on the angular marble roof of the stunning Oslo Opera House is not only allowed but encouraged and then there is hygge — the Nordic concept that is becoming popular around the world. It’s hard to pronounce (hue-gah), but even harder to describe. It’s the warm, cosy feeling Scandinavians have toward friends, family, home, entertaining and life.
Here are three recipes inspired by that concept:
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER SOUP WITH BROCCOLI AND KALE TOPPING
After taking an Oslo fiord cruise on a cold autumn morning, a bowl of roasted cauliflower soup, similar to this, at Kolonialen (a charming neighbourhood restaurant in a design store) was exactly what we needed to warm up. The comfort of soup is a small example of hygge.
❚ 1 large cauliflower, trimmed and broken into florets (approximately 1 1/2 lbs. after trimming)
❚ 1 stalk broccoli, florets only (approximately 2 cups)
❚ 5 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil — divided
❚ kosher salt to taste
❚ pinch hot red pepper flakes
❚ 1 onion, chopped
❚ 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
❚ 3 cups vegetable stock or water, more if needed
❚ 1/3 cup cream, optional Topping:
❚ 1 leek, trimmed and washed, thinly sliced
❚ 1 cup chopped curly kale (stems removed)
❚ roasted broccoli from above
❚ 2 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
❚ 1/4 cup chopped toasted almonds or hazelnuts
1. Toss cauliflower in a bowl with 2 tbsp. oil and 1 tsp. salt. Toss broccoli in another bowl with 1 tbsp. oil, 1/2 tsp. salt and a pinch of hot red pepper flakes. Spread cauliflower and broccoli, separately, on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Roast in a preheated 400F oven 20 to 25 minutes or until lightly browned and tender. Chop broccoli and reserve.
2. Heat 1 tbsp. oil in a large saucepan. Add onions and garlic. Cook gently 2 or 3 minutes or until tender but not brown. Add cauliflower and stock. Cook 10 minutes. Purée. Add more stock or water if necessary. Add cream. Season to taste.
3. For topping, heat remaining 1 tbsp. oil in a medium-large skillet. Add leeks and cook gently until tender. Add kale and cook until wilted. Add broccoli to heat. Add cilantro. Season to taste. Spoon on each serving and sprinkle with almonds. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
FISH CAKES WITH HERB SAUCE
Food lovers became aware of new Nordic cuisine when the Copenhagen restaurant, Noma, was voted No. 1, four times, by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. The Noma style spread quickly around the world. Now Nordic home cooking and the art of hygge is being featured in books like Trine Hahnemann’s new Scandinavian Comfort Food. This delicious recipe is adapted from that book.
❚ 1 1/2 lbs. cod, haddock or pollock fillets, cut into chunks
❚ 2 green onions, finely chopped
❚ 2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill
❚ 2 eggs, lightly beaten
❚ 1/4 cup cream
❚ grated peel from one lemon
❚ 1 tbsp. lemon juice
❚ 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
❚ 1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
❚ 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
❚ 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
❚ herb sauce:
❚ 3/4 cup unflavoured Greek yogurt
❚ 2 tbsp. each chopped fresh dill, parsley and capers (rinsed)
1. Chop fish by hand and stir in green onions, dill, eggs, cream, lemon peel, lemon juice, flour, salt and pepper. Or, chop fish in a food processor, transfer to a bowl and stir in remaining ingredients. Mixture will be sticky — refrigerate if not cooking immediately.
2. Heat olive oil in a large skillet. Make fish cakes using an oiled 2oz ice cream scoop or 1/4 cup measure and carefully releasing each one into the pan. Pat gently to flatten. Do not overcrowd the pan. Cook approximately 3 to 4 minutes per side until browned. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Repeat until all mixture is used. (I made 10 fish cakes in two batches.) Bake in a 350F oven for 15 minutes until cooked through and a little puffed.
3. Combine yogurt with herbs and capers. Serve with fish cakes. Makes 4 to 5 servings.
BEET TARTAR SALAD
This salad was inspired by a delicious beet tartar appetizer at Sentralen, a popular restaurant located in a unique building in Oslo that is Norway’s largest centre for culture and innovation.
❚ 1 1/2 lbs. ruby beets, trimmed and peeled if necessary, diced
❚ 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
❚ 1 tsp. kosher salt
❚ 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
❚ 1/2 cup mayonnaise
❚ 2 tbsp. unflavoured Greek yogurt or sour cream
❚ 2 tbsp. freshly grated horseradish or 1 tbsp. prepared horseradish
❚ 1 tbsp. lemon juice
❚ 1 tbsp. each chopped fresh tarragon and dill
❚ 2 hard cooked eggs, diced
❚ watercress or arugula
❚ 1 tbsp. each toasted sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds and hazelnuts
1. Toss diced beets with olive oil, salt and pepper. Spread on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Roast in a preheated 400F oven 40 to 50 minutes or until beets are tender. Cool.
2. Combine mayonnaise with yogurt, horseradish, lemon juice, tarragon and dill. Season to taste. Combine with beets. Add eggs.
3. Arrange watercress on a serving plate, top with beets and sprinkle with seeds and nuts. Makes 4 to 6 servings.