National Post (National Edition)
RING IN THE NEW YEAR WITH COMFORT FOOD.
HOW TO RING IN THE NEW YEAR WITH COMFORT
Instead of a fancy dinner this New Year’s Eve, welcome 2017 with food that reminds you of family, friends and the feelings of comfort and peace you want for the year ahead. Entertaining doesn’t have to be expensive or labour-intensive, and this cozy little menu can all be done ahead. Cook old family recipes or current favourites that bring back wonderful memories.
Happy New Year!
SHORT RIB GOULASH
This version of goulash is as simple to make as a stew but uses large chunks of boneless short ribs. Chuck also works well for this.
(You can also ask the butcher to cut short ribs on the bone, about 6” long, sometimes called ‘English cut’.)
Serve on pasta, rice or mashed potatoes.
4 lbs. boneless short ribs (or chuck) cut into large chunks 2 tsp. kosher salt 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 4 large onions (about 2 lbs.), sliced 4 cloves garlic, chopped 2 sweet red peppers, peeled and diced 1 tbsp. sweet paprika 1 tsp. caraway seeds, ground 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper (more or less to taste) 2 tbsp. all-purpose flour 1/4 cup tomato paste 3 cups beef or chicken stock 2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
1. Season beef with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a Dutch oven or large deep skillet. Brown well on all sides, in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan. Set meat aside and return pan to heat.
2. Add onions and garlic to pan and cook gently about 10 minutes. Add red peppers, paprika, caraway and cayenne. Cook one minute. Sprinkle with flour. Cook about 2 minutes.
3. Add tomato paste and stock. Bring to a boil, scraping up solidified juices stuck to the bottom of the pan. Return meat to pan. Cover with a piece of parchment paper directly on the meat. Cover with lid (or aluminum foil).
4. Cook in a preheated 350F for 2 to 3 hours or until very tender. If sauce is too thin, remove meat (cover with aluminum foil) and cook sauce, uncovered, 15 minutes or until some liquid evaporates and sauce thickens.
Re-add meat, heat thoroughly, season and sprinkle with parsley. Makes 8 servings.
CARROT AND SWEET POTATO MASH WITH BROWN BUTTER
Brown butter is a chef’s secret ingredient. It adds a special nutty taste to everything it is used on. I had it recently in a root vegetable mash at The Edible Story in Toronto. Save any extra brown butter to use in cookies or to spoon over roasted fish. 3 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1 leek, white and light green part only, chopped 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 1/2 lbs. carrots, cleaned and cut into chunks
1 1/2 lbs. sweet potatoes, cleaned and cut into chunks 2 cups water 1 tsp. kosher salt 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper brown butter: 1/2 cup butter
1. Heat olive oil in a large saucepan. Add leeks and garlic and cook gently until tender but not brown — about 5 minutes. Add carrots and sweet potatoes and combine well. Add water, salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Simmer gently, covered, 20 minutes or longer until vegetables are very tender.
2. Mash with a masher (do not purée) until vegetables are coarsely mashed. Cover and reserve.
3. Meanwhile gently melt butter in a medium saucepan and cook on medium low heat until butter browns and smells nutty. This could take 20 to 30 minutes. Stir 4 tbsp. brown butter into the mash and salt and pepper to taste. Makes 8 servings.
APPLE STRUDEL WITH VANILLA BEAN WHIPPED CREAM
My husband always says comfort starts with an apple dessert.
4 cups of peeled, cored and coarsely chopped apples (Golden Delicious or Honey Crisp) 1/2 cup brown sugar 1 tsp. cinnamon 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 6 sheets phyllo pastry (approx. 12” x 18”) 1/2 cup unsalted butter 1/3 cup panko breadcrumbs 1/4 cup finely chopped toasted walnuts, optional 2 tbsp. sugar 2 tbsp. coarse sugar — optional vanilla bean whipped cream: 1 1/2 cups whipping cream 1 1/2 tbsp. vanilla bean paste (if you don’t have vanilla bean paste, use 1 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract and 3 tbsp. sugar)
1. In a large bowl combine apples, brown sugar, cinnamon and flour.
2. Arrange a sheet of parchment paper on a large heavy baking pan. Have melted butter in one bowl, and breadcrumbs mixed with sugar and walnuts in another bowl. Arrange one piece of phyllo on parchment (the longer side should be horizontal). Brush with butter, sprinkle with crumbs. Repeat until all 6 layers are stacked. Arrange apple mixture across the bottom of the pastry in a strip. Roll up gently leaving ends open or folded under.
3. Cut 8 to 10 slits through the top layer of pastry, in serving size portions, to make slicing easier after. Brush top with any extra butter and sprinkle with coarse sugar. Bake in a preheated 425F oven 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350F and bake 30 to 40 minutes longer or until apples are very tender and pastry is browned and flaky.
4. Whip cream lightly and stir in vanilla paste. Serve with dessert. Makes 8 to 10 servings.