The Entertainer

DELIGHT YOUR GUESTS WITH THESE SIMPLE RULES AND INCREDIBLE RECIPES

On a recent trip to New York, my good friend Mitchell Davis arranged wonderful restaurant dinners for us. But the most delicious meal of all was the one he cooked at his home with co-host and sous chef Nate Goldstein. Mitchell knows how to throw a dinner party — he’s the executive vice-president of the James Beard Foundation, a cookbook author, has a Ph.D. in Food Studies and was the Chief Creative Officer of the USA Pavilion at Milan Expo.

Here are three of his top entertaining tips:

1. Always tell the story of what you’re serving. Eating is part narrative.

2. Plan your menu based on your oven and stove capacity. Include some make ahead dishes and dishes you can serve at room temperature.

3. Offer guests something to eat and drink right away. It takes the edge off and alleviates any anxiety about going hungry.

Here are a few recipes from that dinner.

BRAISED BEEF SHANKS

If you love braised short ribs and brisket, you will also love beef shanks. Beef shanks, though, are not as commonly available as the others so order ahead. George Crawford, at Cumbrae’s Butcher Shop in Toronto, crosscut a beef shank info two large pieces (each about 4 pounds) for me to braise. This will be more than you need but when something takes a long time to cook I like to make more and have leftovers. Originally Mitchell made this dish with renowned chef Laurent Gras for an article in Saveur Magazine. Then Mitchell made it for me in New York and then I made it for my dinner party in Toronto. And, like broken telephone, the recipe changed a little with each new person cooking it.

Note: Good beef stock is usually available from your butcher.

1 beef shank, crosscut into two pieces kosher salt 1/3 cup olive oil - divided 1/2 oz dried wild mushrooms 10 cloves garlic, peeled but left whole

12 large shallots, peeled and sliced

1 lb shiitake mushrooms, caps only, halved or quartered 1 750mL bottle dry white wine 3 cups beef stock or water 1 cup pitted black olives

1. Season meat generously with salt. Heat half the oil in a large Dutch oven and brown well on all sides - 15 to 20 minutes.

2. While meat is browning, soak dried mushrooms in 2 cups boiling water for 30 minutes. Pour soaking liquid through a paper towel-lined strainer and reserve. Rinse mushrooms and chop coarsely. Reserve.

3. Remove to a plate and discard fat in the pan. Add remaining oil. Add garlic and shallots. Cook gently about 10 minutes. Add fresh shiitake and dried mushrooms. Cook another few minutes. Remove vegetables to a plate.

4. Add one cup wine and beef shanks, bone sides up, to the pot. Bring wine to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer gently about 20 minutes or until wine has almost evaporated. Repeat twice using up the bottle of wine. Add olives, mushroom soaking liquid and stock to pan. Cover and transfer to a preheated 325F oven. Cook meat 3 to 4 hours or longer, turning a few times, until tender. If there is a lot of cooking liquid, remove meat and vegetables and cook juices on medium high until reduced. Return meat and vegetables to pot. Keep warm until ready to serve. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

MITCHELL’S ‘SMASHED’ SALARDAISE POTATOES

Everyone loved Mitchell’s potatoes and wanted the recipe. Mitchell explained he started out making roast potatoes but ended up making these when he ran out of oven space. He also said that the potatoes stuck to the bottom of the pan and the delicious caramelized bits that everyone loved were an accident. So don’t worry.

4 lbs yellow potatoes (eg Yukon Gold), peeled if necessary and sliced about 1/4” thick) 1/3 to 1/2 cup duck fat, chicken fat or unsalted butter 2 tsp kosher salt 1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley 2 large cloves garlic, grated or finely chopped 1/2 lemon

1. Heat duck fat in a large heavy skillet. Add potatoes and cook, turning occasionally, scraping the bottom of the pan, covering and uncovering, sprinkling with salt, steaming and sautéing, 20 to 30 minutes until tender.

2. Add rosemary, parsley and garlic and mix together well. Squeeze in some lemon juice. Pray and serve. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

MITCHELL’S SLAW SALAD WITH LEMON TAHINI DRESSING

Mitchell loves shredded cabbage in this salad. He shreds it, tosses it with salt, lets it rest in a colander about an hour and then drains off any liquid. This makes the cabbage crunchy with more intense flavour. My family loves it with lettuce and arugula.

LEMON TAHINI DRESSING

1/3 cup raw tahini 1 clove garlic, grated or minced 3/4 tsp kosher salt zest of one lemon 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 2 tsp honey 1/3 cup ice water 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

SALAD INGREDIENTS

1 watermelon radish, thinly sliced 1 each red and yellow beets, peeled if necessary and thinly sliced 1 carrot, thinly sliced on the diagonal 1 kohlrabi, peeled thinly sliced 1/3 cup chopped fresh dill 4 cups little gem lettuce leaves 4 oz baby arugula

1. Puree tahini, garlic, salt, lemon zest and juice, honey, ice water and olive oil in a blender or food processor until smooth and light. Adjust taste and texture with salt, lemon juice and ice water.

2. Peel and thinly slice radish, beets, carrot, and any other vegetables you are using carefully with a Benriner or a knife.

3. Place lettuce and arugula in a large bowl and top with sliced vegetables and dill. Add as much dressing as you wish and toss well. Makes 8 to 10 servings. National Post

PETER J THOMPSON / NATIONAL POST If you love braised short ribs, you'll also enjoy braised beef shanks, although you may have to order ahead for the shanks.