National Post (National Edition)

TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING IS ABSOLUTELY TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING.

- Weekend Post

glistening strip near impossible to resist, but the timing also couldn’t have been better. In the beginning, Epic Meal Time coasted on the prevailing nutritiona­l wisdom that low carb, high-protein diets were a healthy choice. Suddenly, eating bacon wasn’t just delicious; it also made you more interestin­g and it could be justified through accepted nutritiona­l wisdom. Of course, we took this too-good-to-be-true promise too far. The last seven years have been spent overdosing on bacon. From grilled cheese wrapped in bacon, to bacon brownies, bacon cronuts and bacon milkshakes, there is almost no trendy food that the cured pork hasn’t touched. But instead of imbuing foods with delicious salty and smoky bacon flavour, the ingredient has become synonymous with gluttonous, trend-driven food culture. With every viral, bacon-laden milkshake that gets funnelled into a chilled glass, the classic breakfast food is cemented as a symbol of all the worst aspects of food culture.

The fallout of our collective bacon obsession doesn’t end at milkshake shops and annoying food videos. Increased demand has also made bacon more expensive. Statistics Canada has reported that the price of bacon has increased from $5.16 per 500 grams in 2013 to $6.79 in 2017, an increase of 27 per cent. This is a shame, because before its corruption, bacon was a wonderful food. And it isn’t the first time we’ve ruined a food with overconsum­ption. Overfishin­g of oysters has meant that today only one per cent of the oysters that were in the ocean 100 years ago remain. Since oysters act as natural vacuum cleaners, their absence has led to murky, unfiltered waters and sick sea life. An insatiable hunger for hamburgers and steaks has led to the deforestat­ion of the Amazonian rainforest, massive global CO2 emissions and, according to some experts, increased cancer risk.

Overconsum­ption of bacon has also been linked to increased cancer risk. The Global Burden of Disease Project, an independen­t research organizati­on, estimated that 34,000 cancer deaths per year worldwide are attributab­le to diets high in processed meat. In 2015, the World Health Organizati­on urged people to stop eating bacon after finding that the cured pork is a group one carcinogen, putting it in the same category of cancer risk as asbestos and tobacco. But even the bonechilli­ng health warnings haven’t deterred foodies from slathering on bacon strips. Instead of getting old like the Epic Meal Time videos that inspired the trend, the moreis-more bacon mentality has continued to thrive. In trying to stand-out in a sea of overthe-top cooking videos, chefs and restaurate­urs have begun to see bacon as a culinary safety net. Add it to a dish and customers will at least want to try – whatever it is you’re making.

Ultimately, with so much global unrest, shouldn’t we just let people have their bacon if that’s what they want? Sure. But in overdoing it we’ve ruined what was once a perfect indulgence. Instead of continuing to gorge on bacon until each package costs $20 and cancer kills all of us, we should let bacon’s demise be a lesson for the next time we encounter a perfect food.

Too much of a good thing is absolutely too much of a good thing. And in our search for comfort in the food we eat, we need all the perfect foods we can get.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada