National Post (National Edition)
Lauren Toyota offers bold and hearty take on vegan comfort food.
LAUREN TOYOTA BRINGS BOLD TAKE ON VEGAN COMFORT FOOD
Vegan comfort food is having a moment. The success of restaurants like Meet in Vancouver and Doomie’s in Toronto illustrates a voracious appetite for deep-fried and hearty plantbased offerings. And not just for vegans or vegetarians.
“It’s great to bring the movement to the mainstream by having a lot of familiar comfort foods,” author Lauren Toyota says. “And putting the idea in people’s heads that this is the same thing as what you’re used to.”
The former MuchMusic VJ and MTV Canada host has translated her passion for plant-based eating into a YouTube channel with nearly 400,000 subscribers. In her debut cookbook, Hot for Food Vegan Comfort Classics, Toyota delivers “indulgent, not pious” fare.
She offers veganized versions of quintessential comfort foods, like Southern fried cauliflower, Philly cheesesteak, and mac & cheese onion rings. The more than 100 recipes reflect the food she loved to eat before going vegan in 2010.
“When I went vegan, I thought, ‘Well, now I’m vegan. I have to eat this way.’ And I fell into those traps that a lot of people do, which is where Hot for Food comes into play,” Toyota says.
“I’m trying to dispel those misconceptions by saying, ‘No, you can actually eat the food you want to eat.’ You just have to make a few ingredient swaps or think about it a little bit differently.”
THE BIG BREKKY SKILLET
Makes: 4 to 6 servings
Potato hash:
2 lb (907 g) baby white potatoes, quartered
2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil
1 tsp (5 mL) paprika
1 tsp (5 mL) sea salt
1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground pepper
2 garlic cloves, minced
Tofu scramble:
1 (about 16 oz/450 g) brick medium-firm tofu, crumbled
1 tbsp (15 mL) vegetable oil
2 shallots, minced
2 green onions, white and green parts, finely chopped
1 cup (250 mL) finely chopped red bell pepper
2 tbsp (30 mL) nutritional yeast
1 tsp (5 mL) ground turmeric 1/2 to 1tsp (2 to 5mL) sea salt
1/4 tsp (1 mL) ground pepper
1/4 cup (50 mL) unsweetened nondairy milk (optional)
Toppings:
1/2 cup (125 mL) packed, stemmed, and finely chopped kale leaves
1 avocado, pitted, peeled, and sliced
1/2 cup (125 mL) Coconut Bacon (recipe follows)
1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped chives
Hot sauce
1. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).
2. To make the potato hash, place the quartered potatoes in a pot of cold water and bring to a boil. Cook until fork-tender, approximately 8 minutes. Drain and set aside.
3. Meanwhile, prepare the tofu scramble. Drain the tofu and pat dry with a tea towel. Heat a large cast-iron skillet or oven-safe pan over medium heat and add the vegetable oil. Add the crumbled tofu, shallots, green onions, and red pepper and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes or until the vegetables are softened and about half cooked.
4. Add the nutritional yeast, the turmeric, up to 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of the salt (to taste), and the pepper. Stir to combine and cook for another 2 minutes. At this point you can add up to 1/4 cup (50 mL) of the nondairy milk if the mixture looks too dry and cook for another minute. Remove the scramble from the pan to another dish and set aside.
5. To cook the potato hash, wipe out any excess scramble from the skillet and heat over medium heat. Add the vegetable oil, po- tatoes, paprika, salt, and pepper and toss to coat the potatoes well.
6. Cook for 12 to 14 minutes, stirring only a couple of times and allowing the potato to crisp on the bottom. Add the garlic and cook for 2 more minutes, lowering the heat slightly to prevent burning.
7. Add the scramble on top of the potatoes in the skillet or transfer to an oven-safe casserole dish. Surround the scramble with the chopped kale.
8. Bake for approximately 15 minutes or until the kale looks crisp.
9. Top with the avocado slices, bacon, and chives before serving. Add hot sauce to taste to individual servings if desired.
COCONUT BACON Marinade:
1/4 cup (50 mL) low-sodium tamari or soy sauce
2 tbsp (30 mL) maple syrup
1 tbsp (15 mL) liquid smoke
1 tsp (5 mL) smoked paprika
3 cups (750 mL) large flaked unsweetened coconut
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C).
2. Combine all of the marinade ingredients together in a bowl with a fork.
3. Stir the flakes into the marinade and coat well.
4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Spread out the coconut flakes in an even layer.
5. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, tossing every 5 minutes. When the coconut is a uniform, deep brown colour, remove the baking sheet from the oven and transfer the bacon to a plate. Allow it to cool completely before storing in an airtight container.
SOUTHERN FRIED CAULIFLOWER Serves:4to6
Cauliflower:
8 to 9 cups (2 to 2.25 L) cauliflower florets (two-bite size)
2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil, plus 4 to 6 cups (1 to 1.5 L) for deep-frying
1 tsp (5 mL) sea salt
1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground pepper
Dip of your choice
Batter:
1 cup (250 mL) unsweetened non-dairy milk
1 tbsp (15 mL) apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup (50 mL) Buffalostyle hot sauce
2 tsp (10 mL) cornstarch
2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour
1 tbsp (15 mL) sea salt
1 tbsp (15 mL) chili powder
2 tsp (10 mL) garlic powder
2 tsp (10 mL) onion powder
1 tsp (5 mL) ground pepper
1 tsp (5 mL) ground sage
1 tsp (5 mL) ground coriander
1 tsp (5 mL) smoked paprika
1 tsp (5 mL) celery salt
1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground cumin
1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground allspice
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).
2. To prepare the cauliflower, toss the cauliflower on a baking sheet with the 2 tablespoons (30 mL) vegetable oil, salt, and pepper. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes until tender.
3. Heat the oil for deep-frying in a large heavy-bottomed pot or deep fryer to a temperature of 325°F (165°C) to 350°F (177°C) on a deepfrying thermometer. The amount of oil may vary depending on the size of your frying vessel.
4. To make the batter, combine the non-dairy milk with the apple cider vinegar and hot sauce in a large bowl. Mix the cornstarch with a small amount of the milk mixture to make a slurry and add to the bowl. In another large bowl, combine the flour with the salt and all the spices.
5. Once the oil has reached 325°F (165°C), coat the cauliflower. Batter a floret, then coat in the flour mixture, then submerge in the batter again and coat in the flour mixture once again. Fry a few pieces at a time for 4 to 5 minutes until golden brown.
6. Remove with a slotted frying spoon onto a baking sheet covered with paper towels to absorb excess oil. Serve with the dip of your choice.
RASPBERRY FUNFETTI POP TARTS
Makes: 8 tarts Prep time: 1 hour Cook time: 30 to 35 minutes
Raspberry filling:
2 cups (500 mL) fresh or frozen raspberries
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
2 tbsp (30 mL) freshly squeezed lemon juice
Pastry:
2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour 1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt 1 cup (250 mL) cold vegan butter, cubed
1/2 cup (125 mL) ice-cold water
Raspberry frosting:
1 cup (250 mL) confectioner’s sugar
1 1/2 tbsp (22 mL) unsweetened non-dairy milk
1 tbsp (15 mL) sprinkles of choice or shredded coconut, for decorating
1. To make the filling, combine all the ingredients together in a large saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer. Once the filling is bubbling, lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes until slightly thicker like jam.
2. Strain out the seeds by pouring the mixture through a sieve over another saucepan. Push the mixture back and forth with a spatula to allow a lot of thick jam to strain through the small holes. Simmer for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and let cool completely at room temperature. The filling will thicken much more as it cools. Reserve 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of the filling to use in the frosting.
3. To make the pastry, combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Cut in the cubed butter with a pastry blender until a crumblike texture is formed with small pea-size pieces of butter throughout. Create a well in the centre of the mixture and pour in the water. Fold the pastry together a few times with a spatula until just mixed but still crumbly. Do not overmix!
4. Portion half of the pastry on a large piece of plastic wrap. Lift the sides of the plastic over the pastry to bring it together and gently form a ball. Finish wrapping the pastry in the plastic and gently flatten into a thick disk. Do the same with the other half. Refrigerate the pastry for least 15 minutes before rolling out. You can also leave it up to 24 hours in the fridge, but it may need to sit at room temperature for 5 minutes to soften slightly before rolling out.
5. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
6. Flour the work surface, your hands, and a rolling pin. Roll out one portion of the pastry 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick and into a rectangle 16 to 17 inches long by 6 to 7 inches (15 to 18 cm) wide, stopping every couple of rolls to make sure the pastry isn’t sticking. Gently lift the pastry and lightly flour underneath as you go.
7. Trim the edges slightly so you have an even rectangle shape. Cut the rectangle in half lengthwise and then crosswise into 4 pieces. You will have 8 rectangles approximately 4 inches (10 cm) by3to31/2inches(8to9cm).
8. Spoon a large tablespoon of the raspberry filling on 4 rectangles. Take a bit of water on a finger and dab the edges of each rectangle. Top with a rectangle of pastry and gently press the edges together from the filling outward to the edges. Use the tines of a fork to seal the edges all around. Place the tarts on 1 baking sheet and freeze for at least 15 minutes. Do the same method with the other portion of pastry and place tarts on another sheet. Bake the frozen tarts first and freeze the second batch for at least 15 minutes.
9. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes until the tarts are golden brown. Remove the tarts from the baking sheet to a wire rack and let cool completely before frosting. 10. To make the frosting, combine the reserved 1 teaspoon (5 mL) raspberry filling with the sugar and nondairy milk in a bowl and mix until smooth.
11. Spoon some of the frosting over each tart and spread across the centre. The frosting should drape nicely over the top but still leave the edges of the tart exposed. If the frosting is too thin, add a bit more sugar; if it’s too thick to spread, add a bit more non-dairy milk. While the frosting is still wet, add the sprinkles or coconut. Allow the tarts to dry completely before storing between layers of parchment paper in a container at room temperature. They are best consumed the same day as baking. A day later, you might want to warm them slightly before eating.