National Post (National Edition)
How Colombia became South America’s coolest destination
Colombia ups its cool quotient as one of South America’s must-see places
Colombia is shrugging off its troubled past and fast emerging as South America’s must-see destination thanks to increased safety, the appeal of exploring new places and the country’s rising cool quotient.
It’s been more than a year since President Juan Manuel Santos won the Nobel Prize for the peace agreement which aims to put an end to Colombia’s half-century-long civil war. Since he accepted the award in December 2016, more flights and people have started flocking to the country.
With everything from snowcapped mountains to jungles and two ocean coastlines, there’s plenty to see. Colombia is one of the most biodiverse places in the world and it boasts a dazzling array of plants, birds and riches (this is, after all, the land the Spanish pilfered for gold and emeralds starting back in the 1530s).
There’s so much to do and see it’s hard to squeeze it all in, so I started with two of the country’s main cities – Cartagena, the beautiful, fortified port founded on the Caribbean coast in 1535, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and Bogota in the Andes, which is also home to the scenic Juan Valdez coffee region.
Bogota, nestled 2,590 metres above sea level on one of the world’s longest mountain ranges, is the fourth-highest capital in the world. It’s a buzzy, big city with everything that entails, plus stunning views of and access to the mountains.
To see the spoils of the fertile land and understand the country’s incredible gastronomy, I checked out Bogota’s biggest market – the Paloquemao. I was greeted outside with seemingly endless stalls of flowers – orchids (the country’s national flower), roses and birds of paradise to name but a few. Cut flowers, incredibly affordable here, are one of the country’s top 10 exports.
Inside, there’s a real cornucopia of fresh produce. You can also pick up a live chicken (they’ll butcher it on the spot for you), meats, spices and baked goods in this lively labyrinth of food. It would be easy to get lost here – but you’d never be left hungry. The square dates back to 1539 and is in the heart of the old city. Here you’ll find El Catedral, which has the tomb of Bogota’s founder Jiménez de Quesada. The Palace of Justice (where the now defunct M19 rebels killed almost half of the 25 Supreme Court justices in 1985), city hall and the Parliament of Colombia surround the plaza.
Luckily, the Gold Museum (Museo del Oro) is nearby and it’s one of the most important collections of its kind in the world, says Rosa Ines Rogas, my guide from Panamericana de Viajes (an organization that offers guides throughout the country). Peru also has a gold museum, but it’s private, she says.
The museum’s fascinating collection of more than 50,000 pieces of gold artifacts, ceramics and textiles from pre-Colombian cultures is well displayed and labelled in both English and Spanish. It’s a great place to learn about the country’s Indigenous heritage (it’s estimated that there are 86 tribes now) and see remarkable pieces.
There’s even a golden replica of the El Dorado boat the Muisca king was said to use on Lake Guatavita, where he allegedly threw gold and emeralds into the water.
The city has no shortage of cultural offerings, and another key one is the Botero Gallery. Founded by Fernando Botero, one of the country’s most famous artists, it has more than 100 of his paintings and drawings.
But Colombia’s creativity isn’t limited to museums and galleries.
Bogota – and Cartagena – are having a bit of a culinary moment right now – notching the country up on the cool quotient scale. The combination of fresh ingredients, creativity and sophistication is exploding in the restaurant scene.
The La T area boasts some of the city’s best restaurants, such as Central Cevicher’a, Osaki and Di Luca. The smart Sofitel Bogota Victoria Regia is also in the heart of the area and its Basilic restaurant, which won the World Luxury Restaurant Awards in 2016, is known for mixing Colombian and Mediterranean flavours.
Basilic Chef Nelson Granados, who incidentally is a big fan of the Paloquemao Market, grows herbs such as basil, oregano and pepperment, fruit such as tomatoes, passion fruit and breva, along with vegetables and even coffee in his secret garden at Victoria Regia.
FOODIE FAVOURITE
Indeed, Cartagena also has no shortage of fantastic chefs adding to the envelope-pushing culinary scene – only here they have the added benefit of fresh seafood. Carmen, Mistura and Fuerte San Sebastian del Pastelillo are just some of the restos that will leave you savouring every bite.
The port city was founded in 1535 and fortified to protect the gold, emeralds and pillaged treasures, which were then shipped to Cuba or Puerto Rico before going back to Spain.
Most of the roughly four-kilometre wall surrounding the old city is still there, as are forts.
Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas has been called the greatest fortress ever built by the Spaniards. Named after Spain’s King Philipe IV, it was commissioned in 1630. Built on top of San Lázaro hill, it’s a bit of a climb in the hot sun to get to the fort. Armed with a hat and a bottle of water, the walk is enjoyable, leading to better views each step of the way.
The cannons, turrets and various nooks and crannies in the tunnels (complete with great acoustics and secret hideaways) are fun to explore, and the panoramic views of the city from the top are amazing.
I took a 30-minute boat ride across the bay to Isla Tierra Bomba, a small island, and headed to the Blue Apple Beach House, which has a great restaurant for sharing dishes (think seafood paella, seabass carpaccio, and blue cheese mussels). Plus, there’s a pool surrounded by sun lounges, a DJ and a private beach.
But Cartagena’s old town never feels very big. The cobblestone streets are lined with little shops, horse-drawn carriages clip-clop by and there are plenty of squares where you’ll find locals playing cards, selling their wares, or just relaxing.
The Getsemani neighbourhood just outside of the walled, old city is a great area to wander. Here you’ll find some colourful murals, hip, little restaurants like the recently opened Arrabal and the old stalwart Café Havana, which is known for its live salsa music.
Back in the historic centre, overlooking the Caribbean, is a stunning restored property, where the likes of King Felipe VI of Spain, Mick Jagger and Bill Gates have stayed.
The Sofitel Legend Santa Clara was originally built as a cloistered convent for the Poor Clares in 1621. The old wall still envelops the property, which has a traditional, colonial Spanish style.
The hotel is built around a beautiful, large pool (which used to be the nuns’ orchard) and a colonial-styled garden. There’s also a lovely spa and a few very good restaurants run by Executive Chef Dominique Oudin. He honed his skills working with renowned French chefs, such as the U.K.’s Michel Roux (at the Michelin-starred Waterside Inn) and France’s Paul Bocuse (who sadly died in January and was known as a leading figure in nouvelle cuisine).
I had a stellar dinner complete with French service at Oudin’s Restaurante 1621, which won the World Luxury Restaurant Award in 2016 and 2017. And then, as if that weren’t enough, I checked out a fab salsa band in the hotel’s Coro Bar.
As with the rest of Santa Clara, there are a few stories here. The Coro Bar used to be the chapel choir and also has an old crypt. When it was excavated in 1949, the local reporter Gabriel Garcia Marquez covered the event. Legend has it that when he saw remains being taken out he noticed a long lock of red hair, which years later inspired the country’s first Nobel Prize winner to write the novel Of Love and Other Demons.
“Do not allow me to forget you” is one of the famous quotes from that book. And, indeed, as my trip comes to an end, I vow not to forget Colombia but to return one day so I can see more of it. The writer was a guest of Sofitel Bogota Victoria Regia and Softitel Legend Santa Clara. The organization did not review this article.