Rising again

Equipment: A 9-by-4-inch (23-by-10-cm) Pullman loaf pan with lid fluffy, and spongelike. Before shaping, dust the edges with flour again, scrape the sides of the dough off the bowl, and fold into the centre. Let rest for 30 to 60 minutes or until it begins to grow again.

Oil the Pullman pan and lid. Carefully turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Lightly flour your hands and the edges of the dough. Take care not to tear the dough even slightly and, using a dough scraper, gently pry it from the sides of the bowl. Lightly flour the top of the dough and pat it down to flatten it into an approximately 8-inch (20-cm) round. Take the left side and fold it across the dough, two-thirds of the way to the right side. Fold the right side of the dough twothirds of the way across the dough to the left side. Gently pat down the dough again and make a tube by folding down the two corners farthest from you to make a small triangle. Pat down the tip of the triangle very firmly and then roll it toward you. Continue rolling the entire dough toward you until you have a 9-inchlong (23-cm-long) cylinder. Put the dough seam side down into the lightly oiled Pullman pan and press the dough down gently to fill the corners. Slide the lid on to cover the pan, leaving a small slit open so you can keep an eye on the dough. Let the dough proof at room temperature for 1 to 1 1/2 hours. The dough is ready when it reaches the top of the rim of the pan. (At this point it can also be refrigerated overnight and baked off first thing in the morning. Allow the loaf to come to room temperature for about 30 minutes.) Slide the lid completely shut.

Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Bake the bread, covered, for 45 to 50 minutes. When it’s done, it will be golden brown and pulling away from the sides of the pan. Remove from the oven and remove the lid. Wait 5 minutes and remove from the pan. Allow the loaf to cool on a wire rack before slicing.

When outdoor temperatures drop below 4°C, use 1 1/2 teaspoons (7 mL) of yeast and an extra tablespoon (15 mL) of water For little rolls, when the dough is ready to shape after Step 3, divide it into 12 even pieces (or 6, for hamburger buns), using a dough scraper (alternatively, dust two fingers with flour and pretend they are scissors — it works well and is surprisingly fun). Fold the dough under and into itself to make taut little balls; but do not handle the dough so much that the dough gets sticky — this means you’re stretching too much. Put the shaped balls of dough onto a sheet pan that has been lined with parchment paper or lightly oiled. Allow the rolls to double in volume — about an hour and a half. Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C), brush the tops of the rolls with a little milk, and bake the rolls for about 15 minutes (20 minutes for hamburger buns) or until the tops have coloured.