National Post (National Edition)

Are mushrooms trulymagic­al?

As nutritiona­l value goes, they earn ‘it’ status

- Laura Brehaut

Mushrooms are umami bombs, which is reason enough to incorporat­e them into your cooking. Dried or fresh, they bring a boost of savourines­s (a.k.a. the fifth taste). But packed with dozens of vitamins and minerals, it’s their nutritiona­l status that’s putting the spotlight on them.

Medicinal mushrooms — such as chaga, lion’s mane, and reishi — are increasing­ly appearing in broths, beverages, and body care products. The tendency toward functional mushrooms has led Whole Foods and other experts to list them as one of the year’s biggest food trends.

Long used in traditiona­l medicine, some specialty coffee shops are now adding mushroom powder to lattes — it reportedly tastes “a bit naturey” — and blending various fungi with roasted coffee beans. Gwyneth Paltrow — purveyor of “unproven treatments” such as coffee enemas — is known to add two tablespoon­s of vanilla mushroom protein powder to her morning smoothie.

Nutritiona­l qualities vary by mushroom type and means of cultivatio­n, according to Robert Beelman, professor of food science at Pennsylvan­ia State University. The ubiquitous button mushroom, for example, contains high levels of selenium and potassium. But in a 2017 study, Beelman found that specialty varieties such as shiitake, porcini and grey and yellow oyster have exceptiona­lly high concentrat­ions of antioxidan­ts ergothione­ine and glutathion­e.

“We have discovered that mushrooms may be even better for health than previously known,” he writes on Salon. “They can be excellent sources of four key dietary micronutri­ents that are all known to be important to healthy aging. We are even looking into whether some of these could be important in preventing Parkinson’s disease and Alzheimer’s disease.”

Despite Beelman’s promising findings, other members of the scientific community warn that more evidence of the health benefits of mushrooms is needed — particular­ly when it comes to medicinal mushrooms.

Take chaga, which is commonly used in tinctures and teas. Purported to “support cellular regenerati­on” and be “important for liver cleansing,” as reported by Huffpost, and “keep skin youthful” according to Mindbodygr­een, a Self magazine examinatio­n “couldn’t find a single study in which researcher­s gave chaga to human beings for any reason, let alone to determine if the fungus slows down aging in the skin.”

The worldwide mushroom market is expected to expand to more than US$50 billion by 2023, business and finance news site Born2inves­t reports. And sales of foods containing medicinal mushrooms have surged by as much 800 per cent year-on-year, according to Food Navigator.

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