National Post (National Edition)
GUCCI SORRY FOR BLACKFACE SWEATER BLUNDER.
Latest in long line of insensitive fashion foul-ups
ROME • Gucci has apologized after complaints that a wool sweater with an oversized collar designed to cover the face resembled blackface makeup, and said the item had been pulled from its online and physical stores.
It was the latest case of a fashion house having to apologize for cultural or racial insensitivity — and further evidence that Italy in particular has a wretched record with racial insensitivity staining everything from fashion to soccer to politics.
The turtleneck black wool balaclava sweater, which sells for US$890 on one site, covers the nose and includes a red cut-out for the mouth. It was ridiculed on social media as insensitive and racist, at a time when the U.S. is grappling with cases of old photos of politicians with their faces blackened.
The polo neck was described as “a racist golliwog image,” with one Twitter user remarking: “Jesus Christ. Who actually thought that this would be a good idea?”
But others said people had overreacted. “The only offensive thing about this is the price. I suppose balaclavas are all racist now, too,” was one typical remark.
In a statement, Gucci said: “We deeply apologize for the offence caused by the wool balaclava jumper. We confirm that the item has been immediately removed from our online store and all physical stores.
“We are fully committed to increasing diversity throughout our organization and turning this incident into a powerful learning moment for the Gucci team and beyond.”
Gucci, owned by French conglomerate Kering with an Italian design team, isn’t alone.
In December, Italian designer Prada said it was no longer selling a line of accessories that featured a character with brown skin and exaggerated red lips after complaints they resembled blackface.
And last year, Dolce & Gabbana cancelled a Shanghai runway show and apologized after promotional videos seen as racist and subsequent insulting Instagram messages stoked a furor in one of the world’s largest markets for luxury goods. The ad campaign featured a Chinese model trying to eat pizza, spaghetti and a cannoli with chopsticks.
The controversy was reignited when Stefano Gabbana, co-founder of the fashion house, posted a smiling poo emoji on his private Instagram account and referred to China as “a country of s---.” The company insisted that his account had been maliciously hacked.
Last month, the model who appeared in the advertising campaign said it had almost wrecked her career.
“I feel guilty for causing the disturbance,” said Zuo Ye. “I never expected that this one time would almost ruin my model career.”
She said she was mortified to have been accused of deriding Chinese women.
Non-italian fashion brands also have been on the receiving end of complaints about insensitive products, behaviour or ad campaigns.
British designer John Galliano was removed as creative director at the French fashion house Dior in 2011 and later given a suspended sentence by a French court for having made an antisemitic and racist rant at a Paris bar. The designer apologized and said he had been under the influence of alcohol and prescription drugs at the time.
In 2014, the owner of Spanish retailer Zara recalled a children’s shirt that resembled the uniforms that Jews wore at Nazi concentration camps, with strips and a bright yellow six-pointed star recalling the Star of David. Owner Inditex said the shirt was designed to be part of a Wild West clothing theme and the star was intended as a sheriff ’s badge.
And last year, Swedish retailer H&M pulled an ad featuring a black child wearing a sweatshirt with the words “Coolest monkey in the jungle.” In South Africa, members of an opposition party stormed into some stores. The retailer apologized.
But most recently it has been Italian fashion houses that have been the target of celebrity and rank-and-file outrage — magnified by social media.