National Post (National Edition)
Sustainable jewelry and how a Montreal business keeps it real.
Little details that make a big difference Sabrina Maddeaux
Not just any celebrity can turn a niche activist concern into a pop culture affair. It takes the likes of Leonardo DiCaprio who, with the 2006 film Blood Diamond, brought the concept of 'conflict diamonds' into the mainstream. The international diamond lobby was so concerned with the blockbuster's depiction of diamond fields in civil war-era Sierra Leone, they urged director Edward Zwick to add a disclaimer touting the industry's progress. He did no such thing.
In case you missed the movie, conflict diamonds are mined in war zones, often by forced labour, and used to fund armed rebel groups, warlords, and invading armies. While Sierra Leone's civil war ended in 2002 and an international standard called the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) was established in 2003, conflict diamonds remain an insidious and all-too-common presence in the jewelry world. This is where most people's knowledge stops.
While awareness of fast fashion's negative impact on workers and the environment is now common, the conversation around jewelry is only getting started. Many aren't aware other precious metals and stones face similar issues, including `conflict gold,' one of the primary funders of violence in Eastern Congo, and `conflict emeralds,' which figure prominently in Colombia's 60-year civil conflict. That's before we even get to the topic of sustainability.
“When I first entered the jewelry business, I saw things that made me want to pass out,” says Erica Bianchini, co-founder of Canadian jewelry atelier Ecksand. “I watched people in the industry dump harsh metals down our water system. I couldn't believe my eyes... you guys know we drink that after, right?”
These days the topic has a new celebrity champion — none other than former royal Meghan Markle.
She's widely known to wear sustainable and ethical jewelry, including an Ecksand 6.00-carat ethically sourced rose cut pink sapphire set into a 100% recycled gold band. Her accessory choices spawn countless articles, making a single photo of her wearing a piece worth literal millions of words. Education campaigns, and even blockbuster movies, have nothing on what's known in the fashion world as the “Meghan Markle effect.”
More locally, Dragon's Den star and investor Arlene Dickinson recently cited Ecksand as her favourite female co-owned jewelry brand.
“Not only did they design my daughter's beautiful engagement ring, but they design all their jewelry using up-cycled materials and conflict-free gems,” she told the National Post.
While legacy brands like Tiffany's, which launched a traceability program called the Diamond
Source Initiative in 2019, have begun to emphasize sustainability, their sheer size prevents them from adopting smaller ateliers' holistic approach. For example, local craftsmanship cuts down on shipping pollution and full transparency is obviously easier with fewer suppliers.
A company like Catbird, based in Brooklyn, can reduce its carbon footprint by hosting its studio, shipping facility, and office all in the same space and confirm their local gold caster only uses clean, electric equipment.
Able, based in Nashville, publishes their lowest employee wages online to promote accountability in an industry where 98 per cent of fashion workers don't make a living wage.
“Consumers should be aware of the small details that go into a product; everything from what type of workshop a company uses to the practices in those workshops. You're not just purchasing a product, you're purchasing the whole concept of the brand behind it.” says Bianchini.
“Do they use a factory that makes 100,000 items a minute? And every time they make a ring that's not perfect, do they throw it out? Are they using archaic infrastructure or have they updated to LED lighting? Is their office furniture made from recycled materials?”
While most people agree, theoretically, that they would like to support companies that follow these practices, consumer choices often come down to cost.
The good news is, with an influx of new jewelry brands prioritizing ethics and sustainability come more affordable options.
Can't shell out for gold? Start with upcycled brass. Instead of buying a new diamond or gemstone, recut one you already own the same way one might refashion grandma's fur coat. Smaller companies often have more price flexibility and offer better value because there's simply less overhead. Many popular ethical jewelry brands don't even bother shelling out for storefronts, preferring to operate solely online.
“Don't be shy if you see something you like,” says Bianchini. “It's really about asking the right questions. I don't think there's another industry quite like it where such small differentiators have such a large impact on price. Two pieces can look the same to the naked eye, but be thousands of dollars apart.”
Often, small changes in size, colour, or other characteristics can be made to fit different budgets.
As it turns out, the pandemic may be to thank for propelling the ethical jewelry trend forward. Trapped at home, mulling on the state of the planet and watching small businesses struggle, people are becoming more careful about what they purchase and who they purchase it from. According to a McKinsey & Company report, consumer commitment to sustainability has only deepened throughout the COVID-19 crisis.
More than 57 per cent of consumers are actively making changes to their lifestyles to reduce environmental impact and 67 percent now consider the use of sustainable materials an important purchasing factor. When the `new normal' arrives, it looks like it will be a greener one.
“It's not even a conversation or debate anymore,” says Bianchini. “It's the way of the future.”