SURROUNDED BY HISTORY, NATURE

Since the fall of communism, Budapest’s central districts, mainly those straddling the Danube River, have undergone several stages of renewal. Development funds from the European Union over the past 10 years have helped accelerate the process, and Hungary

FREEDOM SQUARE

This Pest park near Parliament is home to debated symbols of Hungary’s recent history. There’s a monument under construction to mark the Nazi occupation and an obelisk topped off with a fivepointed communist star commemorating the Soviet troops who drove out the Nazis.

Nearby, you can shake the hand of a larger-than-life Ronald Reagan statue depicting him midstride. Or you can let the kids play in playgrounds at the park’s southern end.

Surrounding the park, among others, are the National Bank of Hungary, the U.S. Embassy and the former Stock Exchange, which until recently was the headquarters of Hungarian state television.

At the southern end is an interactive water fountain. Stepping on tiles at the edge of the rectangular area will stop the jets of water shooting up in front of you for a few seconds, letting you in. You can exit by stepping on tiles inside. It’s free, fun and children never seem to get bored with it.

JEWISH QUARTER

Though numerous historic buildings have been demolished and replaced by apartments, there is still plenty to see in this part of Erzsebetvaros (Elizabethtown), as the 7th district is known.

Near the end of the Second World War, its streets were walled off and turned into a ghetto and many thousands of Jews died.

Today, there are a handful of synagogues, including Europe’s largest on Dohany utca (street), old stores and workshops with the fading names of the original Jewish merchants and craftsmen, and new generations of designers and restaurateurs helping to make the area popular among tourists and young locals alike.

Greatly enhancing the neighbourhood’s hip factor are the romkocsmak (ruin pubs). They sprang up about a decade ago, occupying abandoned buildings.

Though some retain their allure of decay and quirky interiors, many of the newer bars and cafés in the vicinity offer all modern conveniences.

MARGIT ISLAND

In the middle of the Danube, Margit Island can be accessed from the Margit Bridge and the Arpad Bridge. It includes playgrounds, a musical fountain, a petting zoo, paths for cyclists and pedestrians, as well as a track for joggers around its edge.

The middle of the Margit Bridge is an ideal spot to get a panoramic view of Buda and Pest — the neo-Gothic Parliament, the Chain Bridge, Gellert Hill and Buda Castle. Day or night, when the structures are beautifully lit, it is a breathtaking sight.

Near the Buda side of the Margit Bridge is Gul Baba’s Tomb, the resting place of a Turkish poet and dervish who was killed in the city in 1541, when it was occupied for more than 140 years by the Turks. The memorial includes a rose garden around the octagonal tomb.

It has become a popular pilgrimage place for Muslims. The most rewarding way there is a walk up the steep and cobblestoned Gul Baba utca, an inimitable path with distinctive houses and a timeless atmosphere.

NORMAFA

The woods of Normafa, high in the Buda hills, are a favoured weekend destination for picnickers, families with kids, joggers and mountain bikers. At the end of the line of the 21A bus starting from Szell Kalman ter (square), a major Buda transport hub, Normafa offers many trees and trails. The Erzsebet (Elizabeth) Observation Tower, a 30-minute walk from the last bus stop, has narrow staircases and circular terraces with spectacular views high above the city.

KOPASZI DAM

Just below Kossuth Bridge in southern Buda, the Kopaszi gat (dam) is a park on a narrow peninsula between the Danube River and Lagymanyosi Bay. About three-quarters of a kilometre long and mostly 65 metres wide, it has been recently developed and landscaped in a modern style. The dam includes a sandy beach, playgrounds and several restaurants. You can get there with bus 103. If you are coming from Pest, you can board above the Nepliget station of the M3 subway line. From Buda, it leaves from Kelenfold train station.