Ottawa Citizen

GOT APPLES TO COOK? THINK OUTSIDE THE PIE

The humble fruit has so many more culinary possibilit­ies, including curries, salads, cakes and granola crisp for breakfast

- LIANE FAULDER lfaulder@postmedia.com

Finding inspiratio­n in the everyday is the cook’s greatest challenge. A new book of recipes by Calgary-based food writer Julie Van Rosendaal reveals interestin­g ways to work with the humble apple, as well as other beloved tree fruits.

Out of the Orchard, a joint project of Van Rosendaal and the BC Tree Fruits Cooperativ­e, is a collection of 85 recipes highlighti­ng the many culinary possibilit­ies of peaches and plums, pears, cherries and apricots and, of course, the mighty apple.

Here are five things you might not have considered about apples:

1 Apples are like snowflakes All apples are not alike. There is much available variety.

“A lot of people default to Granny Smith, and there is nothing wrong with Granny Smith,” Van Rosendaal said.

But each variety of apple has special features that lend certain properties to certain preparatio­ns. Ambrosias, for instance, are slow to turn brown, making them perfect to slice for a child’s lunch box, and to chop and toss with greens.

Using several different kinds of apples in pies is a particular­ly good idea, says Van Rosendaal, and it’s a great way to add “flavour, depth and character.” Van Rosendaal favours Ambrosia, Honeycrisp and Pink Ladies for pies. 2 Apples add balance to savoury dishes Because apples are sweet, tart and crunchy, they are great for salads and curries, says Van Rosendaal.

“Stir them in at the end, like a chutney. They add sweetness and a bit of acid ... for balance.”

A recipe from Out of the Orchard for pork and apples with rosemary and maple syrup is a go-to for Van Rosendaal.

“You marinate the pork, and brown it in the skillet and finish it in the oven. Then you fry the apples in the brown bits in the skillet. It balances the rich pork.”

3 Apples are breakfast food We think of apples as a lunchbag staple or mid-afternoon snack. But apples are breakfast food, too.

“I think pie makes a perfectly acceptable breakfast, for the record. If a Pop-Tart or a cinnamon bun or a danish, why not pie?”

But what Van Rosendaal recommends in the morning is a crisp topped with granola and maple syrup. As apples play well with others, feel free to toss in a handful of blueberrie­s from the freezer.

“Crisps are great because they are easy. And they are great cold, with yogurt, for breakfast.”

4 Apples make great gifts Van Rosendaal says apples make lovely chutney for a host gift. The fruit is full of pectin, so it sets well, and chutneys are easy to prepare. Apples also make good barbecue sauce.

“If you have an overenthus­iastic apple tree in your backyard, make barbecue sauce,” Van Rosendaal suggests, noting backyard apples may be too small and tart to work for much else.

“You want something really acidic for barbecue sauce. And if you make loads of it, you can freeze it if you are not comfortabl­e with (the) canning process. It’s great on ribs and chicken and burgers. Now that it’s getting to be barbecue season, it’s something that’s good to have a stash of.”

5 Think outside the pie Pies and apples link in the culinary imaginatio­n. But consider muffins, cookies and cakes as good options for apples.

“You can dice them and stir them into cookies. They add flavour, moisture and some nutrition, too. Apples make for a cakier cookie.”

 ?? JULIE VAN ROSENDAAL ?? Apple and Pear Granola Breakfast Crisp, from Out of the Orchard by Julie Van Rosendaal, is worth waking up for in the morning.
JULIE VAN ROSENDAAL Apple and Pear Granola Breakfast Crisp, from Out of the Orchard by Julie Van Rosendaal, is worth waking up for in the morning.

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