MUST-SEES IN ST. JOHN’S
Signal Hill and music-filled Irish pubs
THE BATTERY AND SIGNAL HILL
The walk from downtown St. John’s to the lookout at Signal Hill might be the best urban walk in Canada. You start out in town and soon find yourself in a maze of narrow laneways that snake through a series of colourful homes clinging to the side of the rocks above the city’s famous harbour. There are artists’ homes and lobster traps and other kitschy bits and, often, instructions for wayward hikers. Signal Hill offers sensational views of the city, or sometimes the island’s famous fog rolling in. On a clear day you can gaze down the coast to Cape Spear, the easternmost point of Canada.
GEORGE STREET
There’s really no street in Canada like this one; a series of Irish pubs and small bars that come alive at night with music of all varieties. I’ve seen acts that sound like the Irish Rovers, sure, but also Johnny Cash sound-alikes and heartfelt folk acts that owe a debt to Joni Mitchell. They say there are more pubs per square foot here than any other place on Earth. Jim Cuddy of Blue Rodeo has been known to poke his head into the Duke of Duckworth restaurant and pub when he’s in town. (georgestreetlive.ca/bars/)
FOOD AND SHOPPING
Raymond’s has been voted one of the best restaurants in Canada. The emphasis is on fresh and sustainable seafood and wild game, as well as locally procured produce (raymondsrestaurant.com/). Baccala draws on the heritage of Portuguese fishermen who used to troll for cod in Newfoundland’s waters, with everything from short rib ravioli to house-cured salt cod on the menu ( bacalaocuisine.ca/). Folks looking for a quick bite or a fine cup of coffee should try Rocket Bakery and Fresh Food on Water Street, where they make fantastic sandwiches and baked goods from scratch (rocketfood.ca). Water Street is rife with outstanding shops selling everything from vintage women’s clothing to funky Newfoundland cushions and T-shirts (downtownstjohns.com/discover/shopping/).
THE ROOMS
Not only does this hillside centre offer some of the best views of the city, it’s also a fine museum in its own right. You’ll find marvellous explanations of how native Canadians — Innu, Inuit, Southern Inuit and Mi’kmaq — eked out an existence in unbelievably harsh conditions. Of course the arrival of the Vikings and other Europeans is well documented, as is the rise and fall of the cod fishing industry and the lives of folks in both Newfoundland and Labrador. Current offerings include a look at the Royal Newfoundland Regiment on the 100th anniversary of the famous Beaumont-Hamel battle in the First World War and an exhibit on Bulgarian artists who immigrated in the 1990s. (therooms.ca/).
QUIDI VIDI
This is a pretty lake just a few minutes from downtown that leads to a rocky cove with a series of small fishing huts lining the cliffs. You’ll also find the Quidi Vidi (pronounced Kiddy Viddy) Plantation, where artisans of all sorts ply their crafts and sell quirky jewelry, greeting cards and other goods. The Quidi Vidi Brewing Co. (quidividibrewery.ca/) is just a few steps away. One of their products is Iceberg Beer, which is said to be made with 25,000-year-old water from North Atlantic icebergs, which can sometimes be spotted floating in the cold waters of the bay.