England’s stately manors a time-trip to a rich past
The English countryside is studded with all manner of manors, castles, and palaces. Many of these stately homes, as the English call them, were built in Victorian times by ridiculously rich nobles and aristocrats. To maintain these lavish mansions and grounds, which have been crippled by taxes, many have opened their doors to visitors.
These days, the most popular stately home to visit is Highclere Castle, where much of the television series Downton Abbey was filmed. An hour from London, Highclere has been home to the earls of Carnarvon since 1679, but the present, Jacobean-style house was rebuilt in the 1840s by Sir Charles Barry, who designed London’s Houses of Parliament. The Egyptian exhibit there features artifacts collected by Highclere’s fifth earl, a keen amateur archaeologist.
For a similarly grand experience, visit Blenheim Palace, 30 minutes from Oxford — my pick for the No. 1 stately home in Britain. As a sightseeing experience and for simple visual grandeur, Blenheim is among Europe’s finest.
The palace was gifted to John Churchill, first duke of Marlborough, after he defeated Louis XIV’s French forces at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704 — a turning point in the centuries-long struggle between the two nations that saved Britain. Nearly two centuries later, another famous Churchill, named Winston, was born at Blenheim. It’s inspiring to be here in the home of the two Churchills who saved Britain, first from the French, then nearly 250 years later, from the Germans.
The last time I was here, I decided to go late in the day to avoid the crowds on a gorgeous July Saturday and I virtually had the place to myself. The light was warm, the vibe was mellow, and I was able to really appreciate the fine interior, from the sumptuous state rooms used to impress visiting dignitaries to the private apartment. The 2,000-acre yard is as majestic to some as the palace itself.
Arundel Castle (in the south, between Brighton and Portsmouth) graces the valley below with a storybook appeal. Arundel was built on a historic site — an 11th-century motte-and-bailey castle (with a keep on a mound). But today we see the fancy of a fabulously wealthy 19th century nobleman. It’s got great wow appeal but is all neomedieval rather than really historic.
The Duke of Norfolk — the top dog among all English dukes — still lives here. It’s a steep price to explore the opulent interior, but the place is undeniably impressive, including a wonderful library with rich mahogany woodwork and 10,000 musty leather-bound books on two levels, along with delightful themed gardens.
Like many rural mansions, Stanway House, in the Cotswolds open to the public to help pay the bills. I’ve become friends with the lord here, now the Earl of Wemyss. When I think about British aristocracy, I think of people like him — eccentrics with a noble commitment to English culture and interesting stuff in their back closet.
His place feels like a time warp, from the one-piece oak shuffleboard table to the 1780 Chippendale exercise chair (half an hour of bouncing on this was considered good for the liver).
Near Stanway House, Snowshill Manor was left to the National Trust after its owner, Charles Paget Wade, died in the 1950s. Wade collected bicycles, finely carved spinning wheels, samurai armour, even elaborate figurines carved by prisoners from the bones of meat served at dinner.