Ottawa Citizen

SOUP SPECIFICS

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WHY A WHOLE CHICKEN?

The combinatio­n of fat and gelatin-rich bones will give you the best shot at the most flavourful broth that, ideally, should have a little body to it. The bird can be whole or cut up. In this recipe, the chicken does not cook for a long time and therefore can be used as a soup component. About 2 lbs (1 kg) of chicken wings could be used instead. For this recipe, though, it’s easier to detach the skin for that fried-chicken skin benefit.

WHY NOT START WITH A COMMERCIAL BROTH?

Lots of home cooks do, but some have lots of additives, including potato flour, yeast extract and “natural chicken flavour,” and those who are wheat-, dairy- or gluten-intolerant need to read labels closely to see if the broths were manufactur­ed in a facility that processes those ingredient­s. And some of those additives make for a cloudy broth.

WHAT MAKES A BROTH CLOUDY?

Generally, tiny protein particles. This happens often when the broth is brought to a full boil, so a state of “barely bubbling” is the way to go for clear broth. If cooked noodles or chicken sit in refrigerat­ed broth for more than a day, they can start to break down into particles, too.

WHY DO SO MANY STORE-BOUGHT BROTHS AND SOUP BASES CONTAIN YEAST EXTRACT?

It’s commonly used to add umami, or savoury taste, and it contains some naturally occurring monosodium glutamate (MSG).

WHY NO SKIMMING?

The chicken spends less time in liquid in this recipe than in others. Without the skin, there’s less fat and fewer impurities to rise to the top. Instead of skimming, we let the broth and its components cool in the pot, then cover and refrigerat­e overnight. This enhances flavour and makes for easier straining the next day.

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