This is the year to see gardens in France
Roots of chateaux country shaped by power, passion
ROBIN ROBINSON
This is the “year of the garden” in France’s celebrated Loire Valley and more than 80 sites are participating, so what better time to go?
I am not a gardener. Until a few years ago, I couldn’t tell a peony from a pansy. But I do appreciate beautiful blooms and creative landscaping.
And a recent trip with colleagues to two regions of the valley — Centre-Val de Loire and Pays de la Loire — had me happily tiptoeing through tulips in one fabulous garden after another.
Most of these are on the grounds of grand chateaux — some government owned, some privately — that are open to the public.
There are hundreds of chateaux and gardens in this part of the country dubbed The Valley of the Kings: The Garden of France.
You could spend a lot of time exploring each one’s storied past.
A small sampling of places with a major “wow” factor:
CHENONCEAU An epic power struggle
The roots of Chateau de Chenonceau date to the 11th century, but construction of the existing château started in 1514.
The dramatically sited building, which spans the Cher River, has an equally dramatic past. This includes being fought over by two powerful women — Catherine de’ Medici and her husband King Henri II’s beloved mistress, French noblewoman Diane de Poitiers.
The king gave Chenonceau to de Poitiers, but after his death from a jousting injury at 40, a jealous de’ Medici sent her rival packing.
In terms of visitors, Chenonceau is second only to the Palace of Versailles. Many of its rooms are lavishly decorated with antiques, Old Masters paintings — including Rubens and Tintorettos — Flemish tapestries and other treasures.
The 70-hectare grounds have five gardens for hours of strolling pleasure: de Poitier’s formal garden, de’ Medici’s smaller garden, a vegetable and flower garden, a 16th-century farm and an Italian maze designed by de’ Medici.
“Catherine de’ Medici would have walked right here,” says Nicholas Tomlan, Chenonceau’s botanical director, who takes our group for a tour. “She was very interested in the garden and art.”
Perhaps that’s why de’ Medici — despite her jealousy — didn’t destroy de Poitiers’ garden.
I ponder this during lunch at the château’s gastronomic restaurant, l’Orangerie, where we enjoy one of the best meals of the trip. I’m not sure what was prettier — the lovely light-filled space or the beautifully prepared and presented dishes.
See chenonceau.com
CHAUMONT Flower power
After Henri II’s death, de’ Medici became regent until their son was old enough to become king. All powerful, she forced de Poitiers to swap Chenonceau for Chateau de Chaumont — and banished the courtesan from the French court. While not quite as swanky as Chenonceau, this 15th-century fortified château overlooking the Loire River is impressive in its own right, with multiple towers, a drawbridge and crenellated battlements.
Today it’s the setting for the International Garden Festival, an annual event that runs for six months (to Nov. 5 this year).
Landscape architects, designers and artists are invited to create gardens and “garden rooms” on particular themes. This year’s theme is flower power, and the 25 installations range from playful to chic to surreal.
Some have interactive features, one has multiple mirrors that thrust visitors into a riot of flowers, but my favourites were two with large water features and wooden walkways for serene meandering among the plants.
The gardens take on a different mood at night, when the grounds are lit up.
See domaine-chaumont.fr
CHAMBORD A royal “cottage”
Some may have tasted Chambord — a black raspberry liqueur readily available in Canada. Despite its moniker, the liqueur is littleknown in France, where the name is associated with Chateau de Chambord and a delectable cookie.
Since 1519, a parade of royals owned, and added to, Chambord, which was designed as a hunting lodge — albeit a rather elaborate one with 440 rooms.
Set in a 3,325-hectare walled forest, the French Renaissance “cottage” was the pet project of King Francois I. And while the architect’s name is unknown, many say the fine Italian hand of Leonardo da Vinci is evident in the ornate Italian-French Renaissance design — especially its double-helix staircase.
Fact or fancy, da Vinci and Francois were close friends, and the artist spent his final years in France, working for the king.
Because the kings only played at Chambord — and didn’t live there year-round — rooms are sparsely furnished except for two royal apartments. During a tour, our guide tells us it was customary for the visiting royals to bring their furniture with them, and take it when they left.
The climb to the top of the keep is worth it for the view and a closeup of the fanciful turrets and other over-the-top architectural detail.
Chambord’s 18th-century formal gardens have had a renaissance of their own. A recently completed $3.5-million makeover — funded by American philanthropist Stephen Schwarzman — included replanting the entire 6.5 hectares.
Before leaving, drop in at Biscuiterie de Chambord and sample the buttery sweet Chambord cookies made from a local recipe.
See chambord.org
VILLANDRY A labour of love
Chateau de Villandry is the last of the grand chateaux built in the Loire Valley. A 12th-century fortress was razed — only the keep remains — to make way for the new structure built in 1536.
Where many Loire Valley chateaux are dripping with architectural eye candy, Villandry is classically French with clean lines and restrained ornamentation.
Perched on the banks of the Loire River, the site has its own claim to historical fame as the place where, in 1189, the King of England admitted defeat before the King of France.
Today, Villandry is best known for its six glorious terraced gardens and its Spanish art collection.
The château’s modern history begins in 1906 when it was bought by Joachim Carvallo and his wife Ann Coleman — both accomplished scientists and avid art collectors. The couple gave up their careers to restore Villandry and reimagine the gardens — an ambitious labour of love.
Villandry is still family-owned; Carvallo’s great-grandson Henri manages the property. A team of 10 gardeners tends the gardens, which include:
A Renaissance kitchen garden with vegetables and flowers laid out in a checkerboard pattern.
An ornamental garden with a love theme expressed in heartshaped boxwoods, blood-red flowers and more.
A tranquil water garden that reflects the sky.
An herb garden planted with aromatic cooking and medicinal herbs of the Middle Ages.
A sun garden filled with colourful blooms and shrubs.
A maze that has no dead-ends and symbolizes man’s journey on Earth.
Although lavish, Villandry has its practical side, too. Visitors who come at harvest time are often sent home with extra veggies. And the head gardener posts seasonal gardening advice — in French and English — on the château website.
See chateauvillandry.fr
MAULEVRIER A walk in the park
The stunningly beautiful Parc Oriental de Maulevrier is a bit of a hidden gem. Even on a glorious spring day, we have it almost to ourselves. The garden was once part of Chateau Colbert, the 17thcentury mansion-turned-hotel that sits high on a ridge overlooking the park.
Work on Maulevrier started in 1899 when it was owned by industrialist Eugene Bergere. The family hosted elaborate soirees in the park for their posh friends. The estate was inherited by their daughter, whose husband, architect Alexandre Marcel, had designed it. But after their deaths, the garden deteriorated.
Now the once-derelict garden is beautifully restored. Owned by the town of Maulevrier, a team of dedicated volunteers helps run the site. At 29 hectares, it’s the largest Japanese-inspired garden in Europe and has about 300 different plant species — including azaleas, bamboo, camellias, magnolias, Japanese maples, cherry and evergreens — a lake and smaller water features.
Starting at the red torii gate, a serpentine path winds its way around the lake past an arched footbridge, a moss garden, a stone pagoda and a small Khmer-style temple and more.
Chubby, brilliantly coloured koi swim in a small pond near the tea room, where, in addition to an extensive tea menu, there is a permanent exhibition of bonsai and ceramics.
See parc-oriental.com
NEED TO KNOW
For more on the chateaux and gardens of the Loire Valley, visit Atout France at france.fr and valdeloire-france.co.uk.
Air France has daily direct flights to Paris from some major Canadian cities and connecting flights to cities across France. In addition to economy and business class, premium economy is available on some flights. You can also fly to Paris and take the train from CDG to the Loire or rent a car. See airfrance.ca. rrobinson@postmedia.com #RobinSUNroams