Ottawa Citizen

CHILI ON A SHEET PAN?

It’s only for the brave, but the flavours are divine

- JOE YONAN The Washington Post

I love my sheet pans. I do. Just about every Sunday, as I’m sure I’ve said before, I spend most of the afternoon rotating them in and out of my oven, as I roast vegetable after vegetable.

I use those vegetables in various combinatio­ns and with various sauces and toppings in grain bowls, salads, pastas, soups, stews and more.

What I haven’t done with a sheet pan, at least not until recently, is make chili.

The recipe is in Raquel Pelzel’s latest cookbook, Sheet Pan Suppers Meatless, the vegetarian followup to a popular book.

I admire Pelzel’s work and she makes a convincing case for the sheet pan as your friend when you want to get quick, satisfying meals on the table with minimal cleanup.

But chili? I was curious whether such a wet dish would be more annoying than convenient to make on a sheet pan in the oven rather than in a saucepan on the stove top, so I tried it out.

This is not a set-it-and-forget-it type of recipe, and while I wouldn’t have thought twice about stirring the pot, adding ingredient­s or adjusting spices, I found it awkward to keep opening the oven, pulling out the sheet pan, doing what I needed to do and putting it back in.

That was especially true once I added the liquids and covered the pan with aluminum foil for the final baking.

The sheet pan held the liquid just fine, but to avoid spilling I had to balance it carefully and use a shovel-shaped spoon to scoop and turn the mixture without pushing it over the rimmed edges.

Still, I loved how roasting seemed to better concentrat­e the flavours of the onions and peppers, the spices, even the canned tomatoes, black beans and the veggie crumbles (I used crumbled tempeh instead).

The results spoke for themselves. And I did have the sense that the oven’s gentler heat made this method more forgiving, that if I had let it cook another 10 minutes or so, nothing would have scorched — and that’s not always the case on the stove top.

The next time I make chili, I’ll be honest: I might start by roasting vegetables in the oven.

Then I’ll probably finish it on the stove top once those liquids go in. But maybe not.

I admit that I’m thinking about my sheet pans a little differentl­y now, with my curiosity piqued about their versatilit­y, and that’s got to be a good thing.

 ?? GORAN KOSANOVIC/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST ?? Making this sheet pan chili isn’t for the faint of heart (oven spills, anyone?), but it concentrat­es the flavours wonderfull­y well for a delicious dinner.
GORAN KOSANOVIC/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Making this sheet pan chili isn’t for the faint of heart (oven spills, anyone?), but it concentrat­es the flavours wonderfull­y well for a delicious dinner.

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