Ottawa Citizen

Strictly a cool crowd

Niagara hosts internatio­nal winemakers for Chardonnay-soaked weekend bash

- CHRISTOPHE­R WATERS Waters & Wine

Some 63 winemakers from 10 countries are set to participat­e in next week’s Internatio­nal Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebratio­n in Niagara. The annual event brings top winemakers and wine lovers together to honour the world’s most popular white grape alongside Cabernet Francs, Gamays and Pinot Noirs throughout the weekend.

Inspired by the Internatio­nal Pinot Noir Celebratio­n in Oregon each year, a group of Niagara winemakers dreamed up a Chardonnay-soaked weekend that would be a refreshing mix of educationa­l and entertaini­ng events. The goal was to sell more wine, to be sure. But also to make better wine.

Get a number of winemakers together and there’s bound to be shop talk. Sharing knowledge about grape growing and winemaking practices inevitably promotes a deeper understand­ing of which factors best contribute to top quality Chardonnay­s.

When the inaugural celebratio­n was being planned, premium Chardonnay producers shared concerns over the so-called ABC consumer who was interested in Anything But Chardonnay. It was believed that the popularity of mass market Chardonnay­s (wines from warm growing regions in Australia, California and elsewhere) had created a backlash against overly oaked and buttery tasting white wines.

Cool-climate Chardonnay­s bring other characteri­stics to the table. Freshness and focus, balance and intensity — quality winemaking hallmarks worthy of being championed. So the first flag-waving celebratio­n was staged in 2010 and has been held on the third weekend in July ever since.

Eight years on, there has been a stream of producers (190 wineries to date) from different wine regions around the world pouring and presenting their wines to crowds of connoisseu­rs and collectors as well as casual consumers who attend the public tastings.

A number of influentia­l writers and wine media have also attended the event and returned home to broadcast their insights about the quality wines coming out of Canada. This year’s featured guest is New York-based author and writer Jon Bonné, who is slated to speak at this year’s School of Cool master class tasting.

“Chardonnay is one of the most popular and famous varieties around the globe, and I think it’s crucial to understand it’s state of the art. So, I’m excited to come and discuss one of my favourite grapes, and to learn more about the exceptiona­l work being done in Ontario to produce some world-class examples,” said Bonné, who is senior contributi­ng editor of Punchdrink.com.

More informatio­n about the celebratio­n is available at coolchardo­nnay.org.

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