Ottawa Citizen

SAUCY BRITISH DELIGHT

For dessert tonight, try this sticky treat from across the pond that’s easy to make at home

- BECKY KRYSTAL Adapted from Rasika: Flavors of India by Ashok Bajaj and Vikram Sunderam with David Hagedorn (Ecco, 2017).

There’s so much we can chalk up to the naiveties of youth — things that, in retrospect, make you go, “What was I thinking?”

For me, a lot of those realizatio­ns involve food. As someone who grew up picky and slowly expanded my palate and experience into Profession­al Food Writer, hindsight can be particular­ly depressing.

Take sticky toffee pudding. Barely out of college and just learning how to cook, I was inspired to try a sticky toffee pudding ice cream from Häagen-Dazs.

Just as the brand wanted, my then-boyfriend and I fell hook, line and sinker when we were overcome by curiosity after seeing a special about a flavour contest on Food Network.

So we bought it, tried it and, well, the pint did not do much for us, even though I’m typically a devoted fan of the premium brand.

“OK, so maybe I’m just not in to sticky toffee pudding,” I thought, foolishly discountin­g one of the most beloved desserts of Great Britain.

The fact that it’s a supremely soft, date-filled and toffee-soaked cake did not register.

Flash forward about seven years, when my now-husband and I were sitting in a cosy pub in Wimbledon on our first trip to England.

Naturally, out came sticky toffee pudding for dessert. Naturally, it blew my mind. So much time wasted!

We’ve hardly passed up an opportunit­y to eat sticky toffee pudding since then. And thanks to this recipe, I — and, fingers crossed, you — will hardly pass up an opportunit­y to make it again.

This particular version comes from one of my favourite restaurant­s, the Indian powerhouse Rasika in Washington. I’ve enjoyed it in the restaurant, although I liked it even more at home.

The dessert is satisfying­ly soft and saucy with a not-too-cloying sweetness. The recipe makes a dozen individual portions using a muffin tin, meaning each person gets identical, attractive puddings.

If you prefer to make one giant pudding, see the variation, with a technique based on a recipe in Sweet!: From Agave to Turbinado, Home Baking with Every Kind of Natural Sugar and Sweetener by Mani Niall (Da Capo Lifelong Books, 2008), as shared by David Lebovitz on his blog.

The larger pudding is particular­ly tender and fluffy, and makes for a really eye-catching presentati­on. If you like contrasts, you’ll swoon over the sauce-saturated bottom and crunchy top.

Needless to say, growing up has its benefits. I learned I loved sticky toffee pudding. But with this recipe in hand, you don’t need to be late to the party.

The Washington Post

STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING

Serves: 12

For the puddings:

8 oz (225 g) pitted Deglet Noor dates

1 cup (250 mL) hot water

1 1/2 tsp (7.5 mL) baking soda

1 1/2 cups (375 mL) all-purpose flour

1 1/4 tsp (6 mL) baking powder

1/8 tsp (0.5 mL) salt

8 tbsp (120 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperatur­e

6 tbsp (90 mL) packed light or dark brown sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperatur­e

For the toffee:

1 cup (250 mL) heavy cream

8 tbsp (120 mL) unsalted butter

3/4 cup (180 mL) packed light or dark brown sugar

1. Position the baking rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 F (175 C). Coat a 12-hole muffin tin with non-stick cooking spray.

2. Make the puddings: In a food processor, pulse the dates until finely chopped. (This can also be done by hand, but the machine does a better job.)

3. In a medium bowl, stir together the dates, hot water and baking soda. Let rest for 10 minutes.

4. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt.

5. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or a large bowl with a hand mixer, beat the butter and brown sugar on medium speed until fluffy, about 3 minutes.

6. Still on medium, add the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the bowl after each addition. Add the flour mixture in two additions on low speed. Scrape down the bowl.

7. Add the date mixture in three additions on low speed and mix until completely incorporat­ed.

8. Fill each muffin cup three-quarters full. Bake,

18-20 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the centre of one of the puddings comes out clean.

9. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 10 minutes. Carefully remove the puddings from the muffin pan and onto the rack.

10. Make the toffee syrup: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the cream, butter and brown sugar and stir until the butter is melted and the sugar is dissolved, 5-7 minutes.

11. Remove the syrup from the heat, poke the puddings all over with a skewer, and dip each cake, one at a time, into the syrup, turning them over and over to soak them well before transferri­ng to a (microwavea­ble) serving plate.

12. To serve, heat the puddings in the microwave for 20 seconds. Serve warm. Warm any remaining toffee syrup over low heat and serve on the side.

Variation: To make one giant pudding, butter a 2-quart (2-L) porcelain soufflé dish (or similar-sized baking dish that is about 8 inches/20 cm in diameter and has tall sides). Make the sauce first and pour half of it into the dish. Chill in the freezer while you make the batter. Transfer the batter to the dish, smooth the top and bake at

350 F (175 C) for 50-55 minutes until a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out with moist crumbs attached. (Loosely tent the top with the foil if it starts to look too dark.) Serve straight from the dish with the remaining sauce on the side.

Make ahead: The undipped cakes can be refrigerat­ed, tightly wrapped, for 2 days or frozen for 1 month. The toffee syrup can be refrigerat­ed for up to 1 month. To serve, warm the cakes (thawed, if frozen) briefly in the microwave before dipping them in the warmed toffee.

 ?? TOM McCORKLE/THE WASHINGTON POST ?? This classic British pudding has a crunchy top and sauce-saturated bottom, but the mixture of textures isn’t too difficult to try yourself.
TOM McCORKLE/THE WASHINGTON POST This classic British pudding has a crunchy top and sauce-saturated bottom, but the mixture of textures isn’t too difficult to try yourself.

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