HISTORY AT THE HEART OF THE PARK
Century-old mountain lodges are just part of the appeal of scenic Glacier National Park
On a warm day, with the sun sparkling on the Middle Fork of the Flathead River in Montana, rafters can vividly imagine Meryl Streep’s film husband scurrying along the canyon rim as he did in the 1994 whitewater thriller The River Wild. Or perhaps you’ll recognize St. Mary’s Lake as part of Tom Hanks’ cross-country run in Forrest Gump or from the opening scenes in The Shining. Maybe the less said about that one, the better.
The spectacular scenery in Glacier National Park is a natural draw for both film companies and outdoor adventurers seeking towering pines, rocky canyons and brilliant blue water. Spanning more than 41,000 square kilometres, the park just over the Alberta-Montana border attracts hikers, rafters and canoeists, campers, fisherfolk and cyclists to its multitude of trails, lakes, forests and historic park towns. (There are 175 named mountains, 762 lakes, 563 streams, more than 200 named waterfalls and more than 1,200 km of hiking trails to be exact.)
The park is vast but there are only two main roads linking the main tourist hubs of St. Mary and East Glacier Park Village on the east side with Apgar Village, Lake McDonald and West Glacier Village on the west. Highway 2 is the southern route from Alberta which skirts the bottom of the park, but do yourself a favour and turn off at St. Mary for one of the most iconic drives in the United States.
Not for the faint of heart, Goingto-the-Sun Road is aptly named as you feel as if you’re ascending to the heavens on the cliffside drive. It tops out at Logan Pass Visitor Center (2,025 metres), which makes a great rest stop for nervous motorists and the starting point for fabulous hikes. But if you don’t arrive early in the day it is hard to get a parking spot, so plan to catch a free shuttle up from various locales in the park. Hardcore hikers set off from here on the Highline Trail, a 24-km out and back trip to Granite Park Chalet. A much easier and doable hike for casual trekkers is the Hidden Lake Nature Trail, 8.6-km round trip, that meanders through flowery meadows down to a lake surrounded by mountains.
In many respects, Glacier National Park is as rugged today as when established in 1910 as America’s 10th national park. It has its roots in the Great Northern Railway, which ran from Minnesota to Seattle, passing just south of the park. The rail company helped open up the area to tourists by constructing mountain chalets, lodges and towns along the route. Among them are Belton Chalets, outside the west entrance to Glacier National Park, built in 1910-11. Glacier Park Lodge, at the foot of Dancing Lady Mountain in East Glacier, was added in 1912 by a subsidiary of Great Northern Railway. The company even ventured north into Canada, building the Prince of Wales Hotel in 1927.
All three lodges still evoke that bygone era. Massive Douglas fir pillars and stone fireplaces, large windows, wood furnishings, mountain-style fabrics and rugs add to the nostalgia. A common feature is two- or three-storey-high central reception rooms where you are encouraged to gather with other guests. At Glacier Park Lodge, you can while away the day with historic puzzles, cards and games left out on tables.
There have been many upgrades over the years, but these are historic lodges (some with designation) so they have all the charm and quirkiness that comes with century-old buildings. Discovering those eccentricities is part of the fun in staying there.
For travellers looking for more modern accommodations, both East and West Glacier can fit the bill. The Tiny Home Village at St. Mary is a colourful collection of 10, one-bedroom cabins with a basic kitchen (hot plate and bar fridge), table and a sofa-bed in the living area. They each come with a detached, colour-co-ordinated luxury wash house with double sinks, shower and jetted tub.
Opened in 2018, the eco-friendly cabins are among the latest ventures for Pursuit, which counts sustainability as a guiding principle of its collection of lodgings. It’s the same company behind Banff ’s Gondola and Sky Bistro, Elk + Avenue
Hotel, Mount Royal Hotel, Glacier View Lodge at Columbia Icefield as well as other operations in Alaska and Iceland.
Also new on the other side of the park is West Glacier RV Park and Cabins, which opened in 2019. Here you’ll find fully-equipped RV sites in a clean and orderly pull-through park with playground, laundry, free Wi-Fi and shower facilities. Or leave the trailer at home and park yourself in a spacious one-bedroom cabin with full kitchen, living area and cosy front porch which is perfect for stargazing.
Both east and west villages have services, from cafés and grocery stores to pubs and souvenir shops. But this is kept to a minimum and the walkable villages retain much of their historic charm.
Any of the hotels, lodges and cabins make a great base from which to explore Glacier National Park. It’s especially inviting in spring and fall when the crowds have thinned and you’ll have hiking trails to yourself, except for squirrels, moose and perhaps bears. And keep an eye out for the odd film star lurking around each beautiful bend in the road.