Ottawa Citizen

EASY, FRUITY DRINKS FOR SUMMER

Inspired by Mexico, these colourful beverages use up the discards from fresh produce

- KAREN BARNABY barnabyvan­sun@gmail.com Instagram: karenbarna­by

This month's writing was inspired by three things: refreshmen­t, agua frescas and using up everything.

In 1990, I had the privilege of working in Cuernevaca, Mexico, as a private chef. Of course, I fell in love with the local food market, the scene of many firsts for me. Goat tacos, corn ice cream, nopales, cherimoya, sapote, fresh tortillas, huitlacoch­e and tomatillo salsa quickly rose to the top of my playlist.

One of the more fascinatin­g stands displayed large, hiveshaped glass containers filled with vibrantly coloured and milky liquids. I was enthralled by the variety of the offerings and not only did the drinks look beautiful, the taste lived up to the way they looked.

These were agua fresca or “fresh water” made from fruit, seeds, vegetables and grains. I became a regular, drinking my way through them and learning the ways of agua fresca from the proprietor.

Moving into using up everything, waste is a part of every step of the food journey. It starts with the grower, to the wholesaler, then the retailer and lastly the consumer.

Many resources go into bringing one food item to our table and when it gets tossed, all of that work that went into it gets tossed away with it. Along with the food item, the energy of all the people who made the food possible is tossed out as if it were not important.

Since 2017, I've worked with a non-profit social enterprise called Goodly Foods that uses what we term “misfit” and surplus produce from farms and wholesaler­s to make simple and satisfying soups and stews.

Being a part of this enterprise soothes my soul. Finding opportunit­ies to make the most out of food is now an enjoyable creative challenge for me. Refreshmen­t awaits.

Make one of these drinks and give a heartfelt toast to everyone who made it possible and remember to include yourself in the toast. You did good.

HIBISCUS ORANGE COOLER

Hibiscus calyxes go by the lovely name of flor de Jamaica in Spanish. They are usually called hibiscus flowers in retail markets. You can find them in the internatio­nal aisle of large grocery stores and Latin American grocers.

This recipe makes a tart, ruby red concentrat­e to dilute with water or sparkling water. Start with

3/4 concentrat­e and 1/4 water or sparkling water. Use the juice from the orange to top it off.

Makes: approximat­ely 3 cups (750 mL)

1 cup (250 mL) loosely packed dried hibiscus calyxes/flowers, about 2 oz (60 g)

4 strips orange peel with no white pith

4 cups (1 L) water

1/2 cup (125 mL) sugar

1. Quickly rinse the hibiscus in a bowl of cold water and drain. Place in a pot with the remaining ingredient­s and a simmer. Continue simmering for 30 minutes, remove from the heat and cool. 2. Strain, pressing down on the solids to remove all the liquid. Compost the solids.

3. Chill before serving.

 ?? PHOTOS: KAREN BARNABY ?? Hibiscus flowers are available in the internatio­nal aisles of most big grocery stores and help make a delicious orange cooler.
PHOTOS: KAREN BARNABY Hibiscus flowers are available in the internatio­nal aisles of most big grocery stores and help make a delicious orange cooler.

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