Ottawa Magazine

Summer Sipping Reds

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Cusumano 2013 Syrah $10.95 I Sicily, Italy I 89 points One of the great syrah values at the LCBO and a category champ at the World Wine Awards of Canada, this red hails from a surprising source. Lovely lifted spiced plum, pepper, floral, and lightly caramelize­d aromas follow onto a mid-weight palate that balances richness and freshness. Bring on more Sicilian syrah! LCBO 145490. The Wolftrap Red 2013 Syrah Mourvèdre Viognier $13.95 I Western Cape, South Africa I 89 points This captures the ripe dried cherry, pepper, and smoke of syrah and the violet florality and firmness of mourvèdre, with a touch of easy juiciness thanks to a small portion of viognier (a white Rhone variety). There is tarry, smoky, and chocolaty oak as well. It’s medium-to-full-bodied, loose yet sour-edged, and sinewy. Steak, lamb. LCBO 292557. Thelema 2012 Mountain Red $11.95 I South Africa I 88 points The combinatio­n of six grape varieties offers up excellent complexity and intrigue, especially at the price. Shiraz leads the way at 37 percent, but spiny petit verdot at 25 percent gives this wine some grip. It is not aromatical­ly strong, but it captures florals, plummy fruit, herbs, tobacco, and some oak sweetness. It is quite smooth and fairly dense and shows firm tannin on the finish. Lamb, game. LCBO 222570. Errazuriz 2013 Estate Pinot Noir $13.95 I Aconcagua Valley, Chile I 88 points This is a gentle, fresh, charming pinot noir for current drinking. It registers cran-raspberry nicely inset with leafy, minty notes and gentle spice. It’s light-to-mediumbodi­ed, with faint dusty tannin and pleasant juicy acidity. Grilled salmon or tuna. LCBO 226696. Porcupine Ridge 2013 Syrah $14.95 I South Africa I 88 points Syrah is the new star of South Africa. This perennial favourite offers ripe black cherry fruitiness coiffed by the smoky dark chocolate, pepper, and black licorice that shout syrah. It’s medium-tofull-bodied, quite smooth, elegant, and tasty, with some Cape minerality. Excellent length for the price. Some tannic grit. Vintages Essentials 595280.

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