Suther­land 224 Beech­wood Ave., 613-741-7980

Ottawa Magazine - - INDULGE -

A big, airy, in­dus­trial-look­ing restau­rant found on the ground level of The Ka­vanaugh con­do­mini­ums on the north­ern fringes of Beech­wood Av­enue, Suther­land is the lat­est ven­ture for chef War­ren Suther­land. It’s a fullser­vice place, open ev­ery day for cof­fee, break­fast, brunch/lunch, tapas, cock­tails, din­ner, and afters. Which means that Suther­land’s neigh­bours liv­ing above need never leave home. Suther­land, the chef, has had an eclec­tic ca­reer. His restau­rant is stamped with his name on the mar­quee, but it’s the menu that speaks most force­fully about the many and var­ied cook­ing ex­pe­ri­ences he brings to his new place. Dishes come from ev­ery­where, from jerk chicken to beef tartare, poke to gnoc­chi, salt cod frit­ters to sous-vide rab­bit. One night we start with oc­to­pus, soft and grilled, set on a frisée salad with niçoise flavours. Rab­bit comes in three it­er­a­tions, sur­rounded by a farmer’s field of rab­bit treats. Cook­ing (bone­less breast) jerk chicken sous-vide may seem blas­phe­mous, but here it’s a re­fined treat — the meat moist, more fra­grant than fiery, and in­fused with warm­ing spices. A churro is the base of a lovely pear galette served with pis­ta­chio ice cream and pear-vanilla syrup. There’s a short list of well-made cock­tails at Suther­land (try the sake-based Spa Wa­ter) and wor­thy choices for beer and wines. Noise can be an is­sue — hard sur­faces, high ceil­ing, and the open-con­cept lay­out con­trib­ute to the echo when the main room is busy — and ser­vice needed work at my last visit. Pos­si­bly solved now. Small plates $9–$18. Open daily.

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