Sutherland 224 Beechwood Ave., 613-741-7980
A big, airy, industrial-looking restaurant found on the ground level of The Kavanaugh condominiums on the northern fringes of Beechwood Avenue, Sutherland is the latest venture for chef Warren Sutherland. It’s a fullservice place, open every day for coffee, breakfast, brunch/lunch, tapas, cocktails, dinner, and afters. Which means that Sutherland’s neighbours living above need never leave home. Sutherland, the chef, has had an eclectic career. His restaurant is stamped with his name on the marquee, but it’s the menu that speaks most forcefully about the many and varied cooking experiences he brings to his new place. Dishes come from everywhere, from jerk chicken to beef tartare, poke to gnocchi, salt cod fritters to sous-vide rabbit. One night we start with octopus, soft and grilled, set on a frisée salad with niçoise flavours. Rabbit comes in three iterations, surrounded by a farmer’s field of rabbit treats. Cooking (boneless breast) jerk chicken sous-vide may seem blasphemous, but here it’s a refined treat — the meat moist, more fragrant than fiery, and infused with warming spices. A churro is the base of a lovely pear galette served with pistachio ice cream and pear-vanilla syrup. There’s a short list of well-made cocktails at Sutherland (try the sake-based Spa Water) and worthy choices for beer and wines. Noise can be an issue — hard surfaces, high ceiling, and the open-concept layout contribute to the echo when the main room is busy — and service needed work at my last visit. Possibly solved now. Small plates $9–$18. Open daily.