Shoots & Leaves

The twist on this summer salad is the umami hit of white anchovy. The silvery fillets elevate an otherwise gentle salad of cucumber, summer peas, fresh mint, and ricotta cheese. Lightly blanched to springy green, the pea shoots (from Butterfly Sky Farms), snow peas, and snap peas mingle with slivers of red onion, as well as ribbons and rounds of cucumber. Town’s house ricotta is thinned with a glug of good oil, tarted up with Meyer lemon zest, and finished with a flurry of poppy seeds. A dribble of the anchovy pickling liquid in the tart lemon dressing turns up the funky finish. It’s a salad that will make you long for a shot of Aquavit. Town, 296 Elgin St.