Addressing wine conundrums old and new
Alot of the letters I receive are the stuff of myths and old wives’ tales. Indeed, there are some common misconceptions when it comes to wine that I get queries about over and over, especially from beginners.
But with knowledge comes even more questions, and thus I’m dedicating the space in this column to some recent emails dealing with old and new wine conundrums.
Q: I’ve started a small wine cellar and I’ve been told that I should rotate my bottles from time to time. How often should I do this and how much should I turn the bottle each time.
A: As long as the liquid in the bottle is fully in contact with the cork so it stays moist (this applies to natural ones only), it is completely unnecessary to rotate your wines. It’s actually advisable that you don’t disturb the wines at all.
If you are keeping your wines for long periods, you might notice some sediment building up on the side. But that’s a good thing, as it will make decanting the wine easier because the sediment has collected in one place.
Turning the bottles won’t prevent sediment from forming, it will just keep it from settling in any one spot for too long.
Many of today’s wines are sealed with screwcaps or synthetic corks, so you can store them upright is you want. But the old method of lying the bottles on their sides saves a lot more space.
Q: I thought I was becoming pretty educated on wine, but lately I’ve been hearing the term “VA” – as in, “this wine has V.A.” – crop up at wine tastings from time to time. What does it mean?
A: V.A. refers to “Volatile Acidity” and basically means excessive acidity, specifically acetic acid. A wine with V.A. will smell vinegary and in extreme cases like nail polish remover.
Understandably, it’s considered a fault and those wines that exhibit it will be penalized if not rejected altogether when under scrutiny for certification under the VQA program.
But it can be a tricky assessment. I’ve noticed some wines showing mild V.A. when first poured, only to have the aroma “blow off” in a few minutes. And people can confuse V.A. with desirable characteristics of acidity, particularly in New World wines.
Q: How can I tell the difference between a wine that needs age and one that’s simply bad?
A: What a great question. I’m assuming you are referring to red wines, as most people know that a white wine that doesn’t taste so great even upon release isn’t going to improve with time.
Actually, I think whites are at their best when young and fresh tasting and no more than a year or two of cellaring is advisable for most.
But consumers cut red wines way too much slack. Tannins are the wild-card, of course, because in young reds they will impart a puckery, mouth-drying sensation that is somewhat unpleasant.
Everything else about the wine should be good though – ripe fruit and balanced acidity apparent, with the use of oak in check.
Time will soften up the tannins, but it won’t make up for bitterness and unsavoury characteristics in wine. If you can’t detect any good stuff in the background, it’s probably a dud.
Q: How come some wines smell like horse manure? Do people actually like that?
A: If the “cat’s pee” character of a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is considered desirable, how can you doubt the palatability of horse manure?
Seriously, the characteristic that you describe – often referred to as “the barnyard smell” – is a result of a type of yeast called brettanomyces ("Breh-TAN-oh-MYsees") or brett for short. It grows wild and can find its way into wine cellars and barrels where it is virtually impossible to remove.
This yeast invaded the Rhone and Burgundy regions and its prevalence and eventual desirability is a good example of “acquired taste.” Wines with brett can smell like the horse manure you describe, but also chicken manure, horse sweat, leather and wet fur. Many consumers like it and think it adds complexity, as long as it’s not over the top. But it’s highly controversial. Under VQA standards, the presence of obvious brett is considered a fault. But it shouldn’t be confused with wines that exhibit clean earthy, savoury characteristics, which can be achieved without brett.
Q: I’m confused. I know that the year on a bottle (of table wine) is the year the grapes were harvested, but what do wineries do in the case of icewine?
A: I’m assuming you are asking about icewine grapes that are harvested in January or February, which can be the case in B.C. when temperatures don’t reach the optimal –8 C before the new year. In those instances, the wineries still honour the vintage as the year of the primary growing season. To do otherwise would only cause confusion, especially if the following season they harvest in November/December and have to repeat the year on the labels of those wines.
Wine Notes
Ruby Blues Commune Gewurztraminer 2016:
Bright aromatics of tropical fruit, rose petals, lychee, pink grapefruit, orange blossoms and spice. Off-dry entry with bright tropical fruit flavours, honey, ginger, spice and a zesty, citrus finish
Price: $20 Score: 90 Cellaring Potential: Fresh is best Winery Location: Naramata Bench
Road 13 Chardonnay 2016
Not everyone likes the combination of Chardonnay and oak, but when handled carefully, a touch of barrel aging can lend beautiful characteristics to this variety. This wine saw oak for 10 months and the result is a wine featuring baked apple, tropical fruit, toasted nuts, butterscotch and a touch of cream. The finish is elongated with enough freshness to end clean. Price: $20 Score: 90 Cellaring Potential: Drinking nicely now, cellar maybe a year or two Winery Location: Oliver Julianna Hayes’ Grape Expectations runs weekly in The Okanagan Saturday. Reach her at bcvineliving@gmail.com.