Great grapes, great wine
Denice Hagerman has some advice for anyone thinking about owning a winery. “You have to have passion about every aspect. If not, don’t bother.”
She speaks from years of experience as a producer of wine grapes, winery owner and winemaker.
Denice’s adventures with wine began January 1, 2003 when she and her husband, Bruce, took possession of the 17 acres in Oliver that would become the home of Oliver Twist Winery.
Previously, the Hagermans, both raised on Alberta grain farms, had farmed, travelled extensively and lived in Southern California for over a decade.
“We wrote a best-selling book about hiking in the Palm Springs area, ran the Palm Desert search and rescue and Bruce worked for the local sheriff,” said Denice, who was director of ticketing for Indian Wells Tennis Garden.
Then 9/11 happened and they came home.
“For three days I could not cross the border. My mother lives in Canada and she needs me,” Denice said.
When the Hagermans bought their property in Oliver, it was a well-established mixed orchard.
“The return on our fruit was so poor it seemed like we couldn’t give it away,” Denice recalled.
The couple had bought the property with the intention of eventually having a vineyard and winery, so Denice readily agreed with Bruce when he announced, “I’m pulling everything out.”
In 2006, they personally planted 28,000 vines—Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Viognier.
At the time, their Viognier, a full-bodied white wine from France’s Rhone Valley, accounted for 10 per cent of the variety’s plantings in British Columbia.
To gain a background in their new endeavour, the couple took the viticulture course at Okanagan College and Denice the winemaking course.
They attended lectures, workshops and talked to everyone.
A voracious reader, Denice spent hours doing research.
“I’d wake up at 2 a.m. with a question and had to find the answer before I could go back to sleep,” she said.
The Hagermans named their winery Oliver Twist because it was located in the town of Oliver, their decision to use ‘twist off’ screw caps and, as Denice explained, “you have to be a little twisted to be in the industry.”
Soon Oliver Twist wines began winning prestigious awards at national and international competitions.
In October 2012, the Hagermans sold Oliver Twist to Gina Harfman.
“She allowed me the privilege and pleasure to stay and make wine with her,” said Denice, who was delighted to have the opportunity to continue making wine while Bruce turned his attention to sailing.
Explaining why she and Gina work so well together, Denice said, “She’s just as crazy about winemaking as I am.”
Together they have introduced the Nostalgia series which has wines with fun names like Boogie Woogie White, originally Denice’s French Embrace.
Rockabilly Red, a secret blend of reds, and a Port style wine called Cherry Baby are also in the series.
They are continuing the Oliver Twist series originated by Denice which includes Pinot Gris, Syrah and Denice’s signature white, a dry Kerner.
“It goes with everything from scrambled eggs to turkey,” she said.
Reflecting on her career as a winemaker, Denice said, “My reward is seeing the smiles on people’s faces when they taste my wine.”
In 2012, the Hagermans purchased their current nine acres, This Is It Vineyard, and residence on Naramata Road.
“Bruce and I helped the former owners plant the vineyard,” Denice said.
Today, she and Bruce sell their Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, and Riesling to JoieFarm Winery and their Merlot to Little Engine Winery, both on the Naramata Bench.
“You need great grapes to make great wine,” Denice said.
Susan McIver is a Penticton writer with a keen interest in agriculture. She can be reached by faxing the Herald at (250) 492-2403.