The right seasonings can take a dish from dull to dazzling
From an herbaceous chimichurri to a fruity mango chutney to the exquisite simplicity of sea salt flakes and freshly cracked pepper, condiments add sparkle to snacks and meals the world over.
A dash, a sprinkling or a soupçon, condiments elevate and enhance, add colour or fire, but should never drown out a dish’s integrity. Without them, meals would be bland affairs. To wake up your palate, and prove there is life beyond ketchup, here is a roundup of some of my favourite seasonings, guaranteed to take a dish from dull to dazzling.
Herbs feature prominently in chimichurri, the parsley, oregano, garlic and oil condiment and essential complement to Argentina’s meat-centric diet. A wonderfully robust – and addictive — version can be enjoyed at the Penticton Farmers’ Market at A Taste of Argentina. It complements the choripan, their housemade chorizo on a bun. At Craft Corner Kitchen, chef Ian Stillborn makes a milder but equally delicious rendition that he describes as a “cross between a chimichurri and a salsa verde,” which accompanies the Kitchen’s steak and fries.
Harissa is a hot pepper paste of North African origin blended with coriander, caraway, garlic and/or cumin. There are various brands on the market, but the fiercest is the, Le Phare du Cap Bon, sold in a squeeze tube. You can use the thick paste direct from the tube or you can tame the beast by making a sauce with some hot broth and adding it to any bean or couscous-based dish. It’s also an essential flavour component to the hearty Tunisian chickpea soup, lablabi, or any soup for that matter. Both the fiery and a less combustible version are available at La Cucina deli.
Sumac is made from the dried and powdered fruit of the Middle Eastern sumac bush. The burgundy-red powder adds tartness and a citrusy note that I find addictive. Add it to soups or atop salads, or sprinkle lightly over hummus or the eggplant dip, baba ganoush.
Za’atar is also commonly used throughout the Middle East. It’s a delightful blend of thyme, sesame, savory and marjoram, with subtle differences dependant on the region. It adds warmth and depth to any savoury dish. Try it sprinkled on warm flat bread that’s first brushed with fragrant olive oil, on baked chicken cutlets, white fish fillets, or to season oven-baked fries. Both za’atar and sumac can be found at Superstore, aisle seven.
1Of the many styles of sea salt available, the local favourite is the aromatic garlic scape salt from Yve Kosugi and Morris Holmes of Farmersdotter. Organic garlic scapes from the couple’s vast acreage are roasted in their wood-fired oven and infused with a coarse salt sourced from an ancient sea bed. It’s available at The Bench Market and the BC Wine Info Centre, or direct from the farmers during market season.
If you find the salt grains a tad coarse, I suggest grinding them in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder. Enjoy it sprinkled over hot buttered popcorn or a salad, or as a finishing salt for steamed greens, grilled meats or fish.
A collaborative effort between Farmersdotter and Cannery Brewing, and a true reflection of organic, local and delicious, is the Naramata Nut Brown Ale Honey Mustard. Blended with organic mustard and honey from Keremeos, apple cider vinegar and the Cannery’s craft beer, the grainy mustard is a delightful balance between sweetness and maltiness. It pairs wonderfully with the Cannery’s sausage rolls, and cheese and charcuterie platters, and is a welcome addition to any salad dressing, or enjoyed with haggis for your Robbie Burns celebration. Sold exclusively at the Cannery.
Zhoug hails from Yemen. Habanero and jalapeño peppers and herbs are some of the ingredients that go into this five-alarm condiment. Get it at Walla Foods, crafted by owner and baker Benjamin Manea. It ignites Walla’s rich, mammoth-sized smoked meat sandwiches and is versatile enough to add to anything needing a kick.
For something sweet, I’ll leave you with the Sparkling Wild Rose Petal Jelly from Vancouver Island’s Artisan Edibles. (Yes, jelly is considered a condiment). The bottled-up pleasure consists of wild rose petals infused in champagne. The blush-pink jelly is heavenly on buttery scones with a dollop of clotted cream, or cream cheese. Find the jelly, and the scones, at The Bench Market.
With fork and pen in hand, and a passion for culinary adventure, Shelora Sheldan, writer, cook and curious traveller, goes in search of the delectable.