Spectacular scenery under water in Thailand
As we slowly swam through a natural rock arch, we witnessed an incredible sight on the other side. Divemaster Manou was visibly excited, pointing at two white-eyed moray eels tearing into each other.
As she tried to manoeuvre her underwater camera close enough for a photo, they turned toward us and perhaps as shocked as us, both disappeared into rock crevasses.
The OMG moment was over in a matter of seconds but the image of these two underwater creatures was indelible. Fortunately, the father and son in our foursome did get a short video of the angry interchange.
Afterward, Manou (who uses just one name) said she couldn’t tell if this extremely rare sight was two males fighting over territory or a male-female pairing.
For the four of us, though, it was the highlight of our dives with Manou, who took us to two of her favourite dive locations at the northwest end of Koh Tao in southern Thailand.
This small island on Thailand’s east coast has become a mecca for scuba divers and snorkelers during the past five years with dozens of shops and operators scattered up and down its populated western shoreline.
The Sheriff and Constant Companion Carmen chose Pearl Diving (pearldivingkohtao.com) since it is less than a hundred metres from the ferry terminal in Mae Haad and from the waterfront dock where scuba diving boats are moored. It was also ranked no. 16 on TripAdvisor among 104 attractions in Koh Tao.
It was established by three experienced divers who had the same idea of doing something special and didn’t want to work for a company where providing diving services was like a factory.
The Sheriff liked their philosophy of never taking more than four students or customers on a dive.
Our first dive was at the Twins, two groups of granite rocks covered in coral, sponges and schools of angelfish, clownfish, scorpion fish and pink anenomes.
The Sheriff, accustomed to diving on the B.C. coast wearing a dry suit, seriously underestimated how much weight he needed while wearing only a wetsuit. Manou brought extra weights to stick in the Sheriff’s bouyancy compensator but it still wasn’t enough. She was patient as the Sheriff had a deckhand bring another two weights.
As a footnote for scuba divers, the Sheriff likes to be weighted a little heavy so there is a little air in the BC and you have no problem with a vertical descent. A blast of air into the BC at depth keeps you at neutral bouyancy. You know when you are neutral when a deep breath makes you ascend slightly and exhaling makes you descend slightly. The effect minimizes the deeper you go.
The weight challenge was resolved for our second dive at Japanese Gardens where hundreds of hard and soft coral formations create the impression of an Oriental garden.
The Sheriff is used to diving at the B.C. coast (Jacques Cousteau once said it has the second best diving for range of aquatic life in the world after the Caribbean) so the strategy is slow breathing to control bouyancy, slow flippering and getting up close to the fascinating creatures.
Witnessing the eel fight was incredible but so was the aquatic variety, so much so Columnist J.P. Squire didn't have enough weight for his first dive at the Peaks but additional lead soon had him heading to coral reefs featuring a wide variety of fish, coral and sponges in addition to interesting terrain. that it was difficult to remember everything we saw: blue lined grouper, Janss pipefish, trigger fish, long fin bannerfish, sargeant major fish, staghorn coral, barrel sponge with white segmented worms hanging outside, the list goes on and on.
While the Sheriff was as deep as 50 feet (14.8 metres) for 40 minutes, Constant Companion Carmen was snorkeling near the shore but also saw a moray eel as well as similar aquatic sealife.
Fortunately for the two of us, she chose Sai Daeng Resort (saidaeng.com) on the south end of Koh Tao and opposite Shark Island. We could watch infant black-tipped sharks called pups swimming a metre from the sandy shoreline while we ate a complimentary breakfast in the beach restaurant.
We snorkeled every day for five days, often twice a day, and kayaked around the point to the Ao Leuk bay for more snorkeling. We didn’t see the shiver of two-metre sharks which apparently cruise the area morning and evening but it was not for lack of trying.
On our first snorkeling evening, after checking in, a metre-size turtle swam by, complete with three large cleaner fish. It could swim faster than both of us.
Memo to self: must resume scuba diving on the B.C. Coast. Forgot how much fun it is to explore another world.
***** The downhill and cross-country ski season began while we explored Thailand and Cambodia. The Okanagan cold (for us) was a shock after 30-plus temperatures and humidity for 32 days.
Mother Nature came through for Big White Ski Resort on opening day. After nearly a week without fresh snow, the mountain received more than three centimetres of snow on the morning of Nov. 22, giving the freshly-groomed runs a nice skiff of powder for 1,411 skiers and boarders.
“This one really exceeded our expectations,” said Michael J. Ballingall, senior vice-president.
Its annual Light Up Big White event is today. For a full list of events, head to the Events Calendar at bigwhite.com.
Nickel Plate Nordic Centre officially opened on Nov. 24 although the snow in the South Okanagan was “a bit thin,” said new manager Tricia Wilson. “We got more snow on the 27th and now we are mostly opened. With the new snow, I would still caution people that conditions are still early season.
“You can visit our Facebook page for some great update information about grooming or the sign unveiling with the Syilx Nation that happened on Monday.”
At Kelowna Nordic Ski and Snowshoe Club, Bryce Garton responded on behalf of his dad, Ryland, who is club president.
“As of right now, we do not have a set opening date because the conditions are not good enough for skiing,” said Bryce. “In the last two days, I have gone over some of the higher elevation trails with the compactor bar to pack down the base, but we need at least another 20-30 centimetres of snow to be able to open things up.”
Skiing is not advisable right now, but snowshoeing may be okay with just winter boots, he said. “I am updating the home page of our website quite regularly … Once we have a good enough base layer built up on the majority of the trails we will announce an opening.”
Ryland Garton recently provided an update on preparations for the season at the Kelowna Nordic Ski and Snowshoe Club.
“The new cabin on Backcountry/ Connector, aka the Hoby Duero (the model as it is a prefab), is largely finished and can be used. The interior will be completed next year and the stove will be installed this week.
“The construction was managed by VP Dave Thomas and his crew including: Cec Dillabough (88 years old) who made sure it was done right and kept the young fellas — Craig Lewis, George McFeeters, Jag Goel, Paul Stevenson, Gord Miller and Hugh Carmichael — in line. No limbs or digits were lost.”
“Firewood Day went well with lots of volunteers. A small crew went out to the Meadow Cabin, fixed up the woodshed and split the logs there. Merle vacuumed the cabin as someone had let off a fire extinguisher in it for fun. Winn Rentals (thanks Brad) gave us the use of a splitter, and George Lehoux towed it up and back.”
Earlier this fall, Bev Thomas, Carolin Robertson, Brenda Wilson, Loretta Wittur and Merle Auty cleaned the main cabin and biffies, said Garton. “Merle and Dave also painted the Meadow Cabin. Craig and his snowshoe helpers cleaned up around the Log Cabin after the mess left by some thieves camping there.”
Lots of trail work and burning took place this fall, said Garton. “Most has been done by Wendy Vandenburg, Carissa Garton, Tom (Limber) Ferguson, George Carr and Hugh Carmichael. Bryce and George C. also worked on getting the trails passable for the logging truck with our heavy equipment.
“Craig Lewis and his snowshoe crew (primarily George McFeeters, Gord Millar and Jim Hooey) have those trails ready to go including changes to link up with the new cabin. Our second snowcat … will arrive Dec. 1st or thereabouts.”
The main carpark entrance has been changed so cars going in and out don’t have to play chicken with each other, he said.
***** A beaver (or beavers) has been busy in Kalamoir Regional Park in West Kelowna but Mother Nature isn’t the only culprit causing damage.
Regional district parks services staff are acting on two recent incidents. Last weekend, a watermain break outside the park saw debris, rocks and soil flow down into the park, damaging and eroding a portion of the Upper Rim Trail and grassland areas.
A contractor is working with the Regional District of the Central Okanagan to repair and restore damaged areas.
As well, a couple of lakeside trees have been targeted by beavers. Parks services staff is taking down affected trees and leaving them along the shoreline as a distraction for the animals to harvest. Staff will continue to watch for any further damage.
***** You can join in Wild Walks and learn some secrets and natural features of Central Okanagan regional parks this month when a park interpreter will turn an ordinary walk in the park into something extraordinary.
Each of the Wild Walks lasts approximately 90 minutes and are suitable for all ages. Participants should dress for conditions, wear sturdy footwear, and consider poles and traction devices. There’s no cost to take part, but you should pre-register for Wild Walks on the following dates and times at Scenic Canyon Regional Park: Dec. 8 at 10 a.m. and Dec. 12 at 1 p.m. Meet at the parking lot off McCulloch Road in Kelowna.
To reserve a spot, drop in to the Environmental Education Centre for the Okanagan, email eeco@cord.bc.ca or phone 250-469-6140. These free events are held in conjunction with the Community Recreational Initiatives Society (CRIS) to provide barrier-free access to regional parks. To request the services of CRIS volunteers, go to: adaptiveadventures.ca.
J.P. Squire, aka the Ski Sheriff, is a retired reporter. Email: jp.squire@telus.net.