Late summer’s bounty
From farm stands to farmers’ markets, late summer’s bounty with its colours and promise of fall has me inspired me to cook again.
The confluence of fruit and vegetables is astonishing right now: gorgeous rosy-hued peaches with red ripe tomatoes; deep green cucumbers with early ripening Sunrise apples; and chilie peppers, from sweet to spicy, are producing a fruitful supply of yum.
I’ve been relishing the tomato crops in all their colours, shapes and sizes. The multicoloured, pop-in-your-mouth cherry varieties make a perfect snack or, added to a mini skewer with baby bocconcini with a drizzle of olive oil — the perfect appetizer. The big monster tomatoes are enjoyed simply sliced and transported to one’s mouth on artisan bread with a sprinkle of sea salt flakes. They are also wonderful as a base for panzanella, an Italian chopped salad the uses stale bread cubes in a dressing of tomato juices with vinegar, olive oil and a bit of garlic.
I grate the tomatoes on a box grater, easily eliminating the tough skin and then whisk in red wine vinegar, oil, grated garlic and salt. The bread cubes are then added to the sweet and savory medley to soak up all the juice and flavours. Before serving, add in chopped fresh tomatoes and cucumbers. I like to add in cheese — feta or mozzarella is perfect here — along with chopped fresh basil and parsley. It makes for an amazing lunch.
Staying in the same culinary region, stewy ratatouille or caponata, a tumble of chopped eggplant, tomatoes, peppers and onions are both delicious celebrations of late summer’s harvest. Add them to a burger, grilled seafood or spooned on top of grilled bread. Roma tomatoes are the best varieties to use to make a fresh salsa with crunchy jalapenos and fragrant cilantro. Salsa is not just for chips. Try it as an accompaniment with grilled seafood.
For further inspiration, I turn to chefturned-farmer Rob Holland of Hands & Hearts Acres, a regular presence at the Penticton Farmers’ Market.
Like my husband and I, Rob and his wife Holly, arrived from the coast five years ago, to start anew. The couple switched gears and purchased a 7.5-acre farm in Cawston, with 2.5 acres devoted to food production.
Holland — who for the most part, singlehandedly takes care of the farm, while his wife runs a daycare — brings 21 years of chef experience to his farming métier. He has a deep understanding of flavour profiles, how to cook and how to use up any excess product. I can always depend on Holland for some insight into cooking and we always have time to catch up about meals enjoyed at home or at restaurants — or what we’ve done with a particular ingredient. Along with the melons, garlic, root crops, tomatoes, cucumbers and chilie peppers currently adorning his market stand, find another layer of his talent with a selection of jarredup pleasures. They’re adventurous and deeply flavoured with a soupçon of chefy-ness, and they sell “like hotcakes”.
Dig in to an apricot-bbq sauce, salsa verde, half-sour pickles, a signature ‘zubee’ relish made with golden beets, and chow-chow, a sweet-tangy-crunchy condiment – a nod to his Nova Scotia roots – that's brilliant mixed with mayo for something tartar-like or “added to anything you want to add zip to.”
One of his crazy-good creations is fermented hot honey with jalapenos and garlic, using honey from a Cawston neighbour. Delicious straight out of the jar, it’s right at home drizzled on anything taken off the barbecue, or on aged cheddar – an amazing combo! (I recently anointed a chicken on the smoker with doses of Holland’s apricot bbq sauce, later drizzling some of the hot honey over it just before serving, to rave reviews.)
Holland is at the market only for two more Saturdays, so pop by and stock up on produce, something tasty in a jar, ask a culinary question, discover a new flavour and give thanks for the talented coastal ex-pats making our edible landscape a lot more delicious.