QUINTA DO CRASTO WHITE 2018, DOURO DOC ($20)

Rabigato gives assertive acidity to the rounder, weightier Gouveio with some Viosinho lending vibrant citrus. While aged mostly in stainless steel, 15% remains in used oak barrels with some gentle lees stirring for a textured creaminess.

NIEPOORT COCHE 2017, DOURO BRANCO DOC ($80)

Niepoort’s top white could easily be mistaken for white Burgundy. A field blend from 80-year-old vines grown at 600 metres. Captivating flinty, smoky and nutty aromas lead to pear and wet stone with racy acidity giving piercing precision.

QUINTA DO VALLADO SOUSÃO 2015, DOURO DOC ($40)

Vallado has backed off on the extraction of Sousão since its first release a decade ago. Charmingly rustic but plenty of juicy black plum to flesh out vigorous tannins. Punctuated with notes of vanilla and dried herbs. Fresh, mouth-scrubbing and tangy.

QUINTA DO CRASTO RESERVA OLD VINES 2015, DOURO DOC ($40)

Jokingly referred to as Crasto’s “trash bin,” this wine assembles fruit from 42 small parcels of precious old vines. Opens slowly to reveal liquorice, baked earth, smoky tea and dark currants. Concentrated fruit backed by vibrant acidity and seamless, mouth-caressing tannins.

QUINTA DO VALLADO VINHA DA COROA 2015, DOURO DOC ($70)

From a northeast exposed site with 100-year-old vines, this field blend of more than 30 grapes is fermented with 50% whole bunches. Firm, dry and powerful with pretty rose and violet lifting forest berries and earthy nuances.

QUINTA DONA VALE MARIA VINHA DA FRANCISCA 2016, DOURO DOC ($140)

A generous 50% Sousão is rounded out by equal portions of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Rufete and Tinta Francisca. Fairly oak-driven but the fruit remains bright and fresh. Dense plum and black cherry are dusted with powdered cocoa and mint.

QUINTA DO VALE MEÃO MONTE MEÃO VINHA DOS NOVOS 2016, DOURO DOC ($55)

This 100% Touriga Nacional used to be blended into Vale Meão’s Meandro cuvée but Olazabal felt it was too imposing. Beautifully fragrant nose demonstrating intense violets. Packed with fruit yet remains buoyant and fresh. Very well-integrated oak and polished tannins frame nicely.