The Buying Guide STELLAR VALUES (Buy by the Case):
All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to nd the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Aer all, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are approximate retail prices and will likely vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada and the USA, so check with your local private wine store or liquor board for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler (TA), Gurvinder Bhatia (GB), Michelle Bou¡ard (MB), Michaela Morris (MM), Tim Pawsey (TP), Christopher Sealy (CS), Brie Dema (BD), Donatella Dicca (DD), Christine Sismondo (CSO), Tod Stewart (TS), and Robin LeBlanc (RL).
Incredible values that overdeliver with respect to their quality/price ratios. Ideal for everyday drinking and entertaining. Wines in this category retail for less than $25.
Château Pegau Plan Pégau Vin de France, NV, Rhône Valley France ($18)
From vineyards that span 41 hectares within Côtes du Rhône as well Côtes du Rhône-Villages and those designated Vin de France. This is a multi-vintage blend, comprised of 2017, 2018 and 2019. Spiced red berry jam but also ripe strawberry - sweet and sour, cedar wood, vanilla, and anise on the nose. Vinous with generous ripe fruit and tannins, and warm alcohol, this checks all the boxes for lovers of big reds. Fun to see the range of development from the multiple vintage components. (BD)
Carvalho Martins Pacto Douro DOC, 2020, Douro Portugal ($18)
(Viosinho 60%, Gouveio 20%, Rabigato 20%) The combination of ripe exotic aromas with bright acidity brings you right to the Douro Valley. Appealing expressive notes of guava, papaya and passion fruit are lied by a salty tang and grapefruit zest. Generous yet light on its feet and refreshing. A natural with grilled sh or shellsh. (MB)
Cave de Gan Domaine Laguilhon Jurançon Sec AOC, 2021, Southwest France ($18)
(50% Gros Manseng, 50% Petit Manseng) This wine oers a great introduction to dry Jurançon. Medium bodied with fresh acidity and exotic notes of passion fruit, guava and lanolin in harmony with steely, mineral notes. A great pairing with yellow sh curry. (MB)
Doña Paula Estate Malbec Valle de Uco, 2020, Mendoza Argentina ($18)
This excellent value, sincere Malbec hails predominantly from Doña Paula’s vineyards in Gualtallary - upwards of 1300 metres. It boasts fresh tobacco, nutmeg, gravelly stone and fragrant dark µoral aromas. Tannins are grainy giving denition to a core of concentrated cherry. Fruit is fresh rather than confected or candied and propped up by juicy acidity. Black currant pops on the nish. (MM)
Bartier Bros. Rosé Okanagan Valley BC VQA, 2021, British Columbia Canada ($19)
Medium salmon in the glass with up-front, lively µoral and strawberry aromas before a palate of rhubarb, watermelon and mineral with a touch of gentle tannins. A juicy and delectable rosé but with plenty of character made from an unusual blend of Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, and Syrah, all fermented separately. Winemaker Michael Bartier refers to it as a ‘peasant wine’. It’s a wine “...not to ponder—to drink, rather than think about!” (TP)
Maçanita Branco Douro DOC, 2021, Douro Portugal ($19)
Siblings Joana and Antonio Maçanita are the two talents that craed this wine. Joana focuses on winemaking in the Douro while her brother contributes here and at thirteen other Portuguese wineries that span the small, varietally diverse country. This wine is a love letter to indigenous varieties Viosinho, Códega do Larinho, and Gouveio. It is aromatic and µoral with pear, apple, g and orange notes. Well balanced and craed to be enjoyed early - ideally in generous quantities with friends or family, it reµects the sibling bond and collaboration that created it. (BD)
Le Ragnaie Troncone Toscana IGT, 2020, Tuscany Italy ($20)
This Tuscan red remains one of the best values for Sangiovese lovers - a wine I seek out every time the new vintage is released, and it never disappoints. The elegant delicate frame and freshness exude the cooler terroir of the site. Bright and savoury with rm ne tannins and notes of red plum, red cherries with dried herbs and a hint of tomato stalks. Mineral notes on the nish add complexity. A real gem. (MB)
Cortonesi Leonus Toscana Rosso IGT, 2020, Tuscany Italy ($21)
Tommaso Cortonesi leads the charge for this family estate, and at one time was also the youngest appointed vice-president of the consorzio for the Brunello di Montalcino appellation. The Leonus bottling represents the fresh, easy-going side of Sangiovese and is meant to be consumed rather than cellared. Charming on the nose - bing cherries, red berry vines and ripe tomato. The tannins are present but not overwhelming and have a pleasant rustic character. Bright and juicy palate, very food worthy. (BD)
Oro»no Riesling Clone 239 Similkameen Valley BC VQA ‘Hendsbee Vineyard’, 2020, British Columbia Canada ($22)
Excellent drier style Riesling kicks o with apple and schist notes before an elegant, structured palate of apple, zesty lemon lime and a streak of hallmark Similkameen mineral that’s a great reµection of this site. Superb value. (TP)
Casaretti La Nogara Bardolino DOC Classico, 2020, Veneto Italy ($22)
The Bardolino denomination is oen dismissed for its light, simple wines - but the former doesn’t necessarily result in the latter. Here is a sprightly red that oers a ton of satisfaction. A profusion of delicate white blossoms, pink peppercorn, cranberry, brushwood and raspberry leaps from the glass and clings to the palate. Lean, barely-there tannins, citrusy acidity, and modest digestible alcohol all leaves the mouth refreshed and begging for more. (MM)
Amalaya Torrontés Riesling Valle Calchaquí, 2021, Salta Argentina ($22)
Amalaya’s white is a perennial great value and as fresh as the nascent spring. Mostly Torrontés with a splash pf Riesling, it exudes rose, pink grapefruit with a µinty hint in the background. Dry but exuberantly fruity, the palate brings in peach and pear with a huge squeeze of lime. The slightly unctuous texture is oset by vibrant steely acidity. Finishes with perfumed orange blossom. A classic with sh tacos, at least at my house. (MM)
Finca Sophenia Altosur Malbec Gualtallary Uco Valley, 2021, Mendoza Argentina ($22)
Fresh and bright, Altosur sings with distinct licorice, mint, black raspberry and lilac scents. With barely any oak to speak of, the fruit is uncluttered and pure. it breezes across the palate showing delightful cherry in a light supple frame. Easy-going and easy to drink. If you like Malbec, you’ll love this. (MM)
OFF THE WALL (Absolutely worth a shot): Unique, distinct, interesting wines from lesser-known grape varieties or regions that are worth tasting because they are that good. Don’t bypass them because they may be unfamiliar or judge them by the rst taste. They are well made wines and your palate deserves to give them a shot even if it takes a little time to get to know them. Coto de Gomariz Flower and the Bee Treixadura Ribeiro DO, 2021, Galicia Spain ($22)
The ‘Flower and the Bee’ nickname refers to the beginning of all fruit at pollination. From young Treixadura vines, it is meant to be an introduction into the region and its local varieties - Treixadura being Ribeiro’s most planted white. This wine shows a delicate aromatic prole lemon, pear, and peach. The variety is known to give lower acidity but the grapes for this were thoughtfully grown and craed to give a very balanced and fresh wine. Quite easy-going and inviting. (BD)
Umathum Rosa Burgenland Qualitätswein, 2021, Burgenland Austria ($25)
(Zweigelt 34%, Blaufränkisch 33%, Saint-Laurent 33%) Dry with vibrant acidity and abundant notes of cranberries, wild strawberries, rhubarb, and raspberries. Structured and precise with delicate chalky tannins and great mid-palate. The salty nish adds a pleasant savoury character. A rosé that oers intrigue and generosity. Will shine if served with grilled salmon or steak tartare. (MB)
Leaning Post The Geek Riesling Twenty Mile Bench VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2018, Ontario Canada ($35)
It is always a thrill to taste this wine. Ilya (winemaker) saves a portion of his Wismer-Foxcro Riesling which he ferments to dryness. He adds the clean lees from other white fermentations; not just from the same vintage but also a reserved batch of lees dating back to 2014 when he began this project. The result is a super funky, reductive, textural being. On the nose it leads with smoke, petrol, µint and tart green fruit. The palate is the real delight for me, I love the density and unique texture achieved in winemaking. Exciting to think that this wine has elements that span four years. (BD)
Borgogno Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC, 2019, Piedmont Italy ($52)
This is an impressive wine – in my top 10 of 2022. While I have not had hundreds of Timorasso, this spectacular wine makes me hope that producers in Piedmont will continue to plant more of this fantastic white indigenous grape. Beautiful gold colour with expressive notes of roasted hazelnuts, Meyer lemon, white µowers and guava mingling with pronounced mineral notes. Steely and compact with bright acid and a long lingering salty nish. While this is delicious now, I am tempted to leave this wine in my cellar for 5-8 years. I can only imagine even greater complexity with a few years in the bottle. (MB)
CELLAR-WORTHY (Rewarding patience): Wines that will not only benet from some time in your cellar, but will evolve, develop and reward those with patience. Cellaring times are recommendations only and optimal drinking windows will depend on each individual wine lover’s personal preference. Kacaba Vineyards Cabernet/Syrah Niagara Peninsula VQA, 2020, Ontario Canada ($25)
Deep purple-ruby in colour. Spicy Christmas cake bouquet with a sweet vanilla oak note. Medium-bodied, dry and beautifully balanced with currant and red fruit µavours. Firmly structured and mellowed with well-integrated oak. Lovely mouthfeel. (TA)
Château Labégorce Zédé de Labégorce Margaux AOC, 2019, Bordeaux France ($39)
(50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot) Bordeaux can still deliver great value and this wine is a great example. Beautiful aromatic prole with juicy notes of cassis, cedar, dark cherries and licorice mingling with mushroom and vanilla. Elegant and fresh with great complexity and a long nish. With 10-15 years in the cellar, the rm tannins will resolve, and the wine will display more harmony. (MB)
Nichol Vineyards Old Vines Syrah Naramata Okanagan Valley, 2020, British Columbia Canada ($40)
Aromas of vibrant dark red and black fruits with wild herb notes lead to a plush palate, wrapped in silky well-integrated tannins. Dened by µavours of cassis, black cherry, and clove spice with mineral undertones, this is well balanced with good acidity and polished mouthfeel, through a lingering peppery nish. From the original producer of Syrah in the Okanagan Valley, and in Canada, with vines planted in the early 1990s on a higher elevation west and south facing slope. (TP)
Pievalta San Paolo Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOCG Riserva Classico, 2019, Le Marche Italy ($45)
Verdicchio is one of Italy’s top 5 white grapes in my opinion – and one of the few that is truly age worthy. This was patently exemplied by Pievolta’s San Paolo bottling at a recent vertical going back to 2006. You could drink the 2019 now for all its elegance and restrain but there is so much more to come. For now, lees and blanched almond weave through green apple and plum. The palate is creamy in texture yet steely in its vertical backbone. It nishes with the fresh sea air. My suggestion is to wait a couple more years and up to 15. (MM)
Stratus Red Blend Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA, 2019, Ontario Canada ($49)
Known for the art of the blend, this is a symphony of Cab Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Tannat and Syrah. Elegant, aromatic, unique. Nose of bright red fruits, violet, sage, and tobacco leaf. Full and µeshy palate, with a tight tannin frame and nice freshness. Good length. A very appealing version of this wine. Drinking window between 2023-2030. (BD)
Tissot Patchwork Chardonnay Arbois AOC, 2020, Jura France ($50)
This Chardonnay plays like Free Jazz in that the bouquet and palate interweave with harmonious discord that modulates between µoral and hot mineral stone, to a sharp aromatic intensity of peaches and cream corn with the zest of lemon to green apple creating a linear nish on the palate. Scrumptious in every sense of the word. You will want more in an attempt to understand, though laying it down for 5-10 years will yield wonderful results. (CS)
Bachelder Bai Xu Vignes de 1981 Chardonnay Four Mile Creek VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2020, Ontario Canada ($50)
Thomas Bachelder is the Poet Laureate of Niagara terroir. He has coaxed favours reminiscent of Pouilly-Fuissé. Bright straw in colour with a minerally, vanilla and toasty oak nose. Medium to full-bodied with richly extracted pineapple and lemon µavours and just the right level of oak showing through. Lively mouthfeel and beautifully balanced, it nishes on green pineapple and lemon µavours. A delight! (TA)
Bachelder Pinot Noir Twenty Mile Bench VQA Niagara Peninsula ‘Hanck Vineyard’, 2020, Ontario Canada ($55)
Another stunning Pinot from Bachelder. Deep ruby in colour. Rich nose redolent of toast, vanilla and dried cherries. Medium-bodied and dry with a lovely mouthfeel. Richly extracted and rmly structured with lively acidity and evident tannins. God blessed Niagara’s 2020 vintage for red wines! (TA)
Bachelder Chardonnay Twenty Mile Bench VQA Niagara Peninsula ‘Wismer-Wing»eld’, 2020, Ontario Canada ($60)
This is the highest elevation (165m), farthest from Lake Ontario plot of the greater Wismer vineyard that Bachelder works with. In this vintage, it was harvested two weeks aer Wismer-Foxcro which is a kilometer closer to the lake. Dominated by minerality, it is quiet in its character, aromatically showing restraint, biding time before blossoming should you have the patience to cellar it. The currant reward is on the palate with its surprising richness blooming into generous tart and ripe fruit, a seam of minerality, and a rm structure. Let this unwind in your cellar for 3-5 years. (BD)
Joan d’Anguera Finca l’Argata Montsant DO, 2019, Catalonia Spain ($65)
A glorious specimen of Garnatxa Negra which typies why Grenache is oen called the Pinot Noir of the Mediterranean. Luminously crimson is this red wine from a 50+-year-old single vineyard. The sweetness of almond µoral to
hibiscus µower over red berry aromas all wa from the glass. More µavours reveal themselves with warm, tart and juicy red berry fruit, with orange pekoe-like µavours rolling through the mouth. (CS)
Château de Pibarnon Bandol AOC, 2018, Provence France ($65)
This is an impressive wine that requires patience. Rich and compact with dusty tannins and concentrated notes of blackberries, dark plum, cassis, dried herbs, licorice and black olives. The 14.5% is well integrated and the wine has a long lingering nish. Bandol at its apogee but will need time to show its full potential. For the cellar. (MB)
Claus Preisinger ErdeluÁgrasundreben GV, 2020, Burgenland Austria ($66)
Claus Preisinger is a guiding light when it comes to biodynamic wines of Burgenland, Austria. This GV – Grüner Veltliner is a wine of volume and intensity on the nose - leading with hot wet stone-like mineral aroma to wilted white µorals. The palate is less about stone and orchard fruit and all about structure, presence and character. A wine to age in the cellar or to meditate over the course of an evening. (CS)
Ca’ del Baio Barbaresco DOCG Asili, 2019, Piedmont Italy ($80)
Ca’ del Baio is a top estate in Barbaresco with origins in the renowned Asili cru. From vines upwards of 60-years old, the 2019 starts with a dark forest character and wildness to the red berry fruit. Subtle mint and rose accents emerge slowly as this sits in the glass. There is power without richness or weight. Substantial yet elegant tannins are quite vertical really - with a chalkiness that builds across the palate. Then it lingers with sweet cherry allure. Give this another year in the bottle and drink to 2034 and even beyond. (MM)
Jacquesson Cuvée 745 Extra Brut Champagne AOC, NV, France ($115)
(60% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier) The base wine comes from 2017, a spring frost year that oered a short, concentrated crop at harvest. The result is a rich, opulent wine with µeshy fruit ripeness and a solid character. The winemaking hallmark of barrel maturation on the base wine gives an openness to the aromas which are enveloped in bakery and brioche. The nish is long, bright and focused. It is worth the splurge and would cellar well for 5-10 years. (BD)
Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli Toscana Centrale IGT, 2019, Tuscany Italy ($125)
This wine is nothing short of spectacular. Great balance between the generosity of the fruit and the crisp acid. Generous notes of red cherries, red plum, baking spice and dried herbs are framed by rm ne-grained tannins. An impressive wine which needs time for the tannins to resolve. Keep at least for 10-15 years if you can. (MB)
TOP SUSTAINABLE WINE PICKS: Sustainability refers to social, economic and environmental practises. It is important to understand that it is a process and journey rather than a nite destination. No one is perfect and we make no claims as to the degree to which the practises of these producers align with varying global standards, guidelines and certications. But, the wines selected for this category are from producers who appear engaged in sustainable practices and, in the opinion of the reviewers, deserve recognition. Of course, they also taste great. Vincent Carême Spring Vouvray AOC, 2020, Loire Valley France ($20)
While the highly regarded producers Vincent and Tania Carême make wine from their own vineyards, this cuvée is from purchased grapes. Their Spring cuvée always oers a classic expression of Vouvray at a great price. Classic notes of camomile, quince, yellow plum and lanolin lied by tangy acid with wet stone notes on the nish. I highly recommend trying it with duck rillettes. (MB)
Finca Decero Malbec Agrelo ‘Remolinos Vineyard’, 2018, Mendoza Argentina ($25)
Leading with a fresh, attractive nose of violets, desert brush and spiced cherries, this lls the mouth with smooth-textured, enveloping tannins - all very polished and sophisticated. Bright acidity buoys hey fruit, and both oak and alcohol are seamlessly integrated. Well-dened and structured, it distinguishes itself from many other similarly priced Malbecs. Decero is one of the founding members of the Porto Protocol, a wine industry foundation committed to practical solutions for mitigating climate change. The company also contributes to its community, providing mentorships and housing for vineyard workers and their families as well as investing in the local school and health centre. (MM)
Domaine Sclavos Vino di Sasso Robola of Cephalonia PDO, 2021, Ionian Islands Greece ($28)
Evriadias Sclavos’ winery is located on Cephalonia Island near the Lixouri village. Known as the pioneer of biodynamic viticulture in Greece, Sclavos is also the master of the indigenous white grape Robola. This wine, Vino di Sasso, recalls the Venetians who named the site where his vineyard is located “wine of the rock”, referring to the calcareous soils. This is Robola at its best. Made from vines planted at 800 metres, the wine is rich and round with a creamy texture. Notes of Meyer lemon and dried herbs end on a saline note making the wine refreshing. Great depth. (MB)
Planeta Frappato Vittoria DOC, 2021, Sicily Italy ($29)
With aromas of the freshest strawberries and raspberries, this smells as juicy as it tastes. There are also hints of jasmine and blood orange for added depth and intrigue. Light sandy tannins lend texture while steely acidity leads to the mouth cleansing nish. Despite its light weight and moderate alcohol, Planeta’s Frappato is big on personality and enjoyment. Planeta boasts a long list of environmental initiatives including using renewable energy from photovoltaic panels and biomass fuel to power all 5 of its wineries. The company is soon to be certied organic across all its 400 hectares which will land it among the largest organic estates in the world. (MM)
Zuccardi Q Malbec Valle de Uco, 2019, Mendoza Argentina ($29)
There is no artice here. You feel connected to the intensity of the Uco Valley and unadulterated essence of grape. Aromas are immediate – proposing violet, lilac and black cherry with a suggestion of smoky incense. The fruit is plush, dark and layered with broad tannins keeping pace. An underlying crispness refreshes. The Zuccardi family are absolute leaders in equity and sustainability. For decades, they have built their business on creating a nurturing environment for all who work for them. Their environmental initiatives range from protecting native µora and fauna to waste recycling and incorporating alternative energy sources. (MM)
Mac Forbes Pinot Noir Yarra Valley, 2021, Victoria Australia ($34)
There are many things to admire at Mac Forbes. Beyond being organic and making the decision not to irrigate, Forbes constantly questions himself on the best practices to push sustainability to the next level. The wines are just as equally impressive. His quest is to make wines that express his vineyards rather than being lured by the temptation to emulate Burgundy. This Pinot Noir brings pure joy. Fresh and delicate with perfumed aromas of violet mingling with wild strawberries and a touch of cassis and sous bois. Nice texture with silky tannins. The 12.5% alcohol makes it very easy to drink. Bravo! (MB)
Zuccardi Concreto Malbec Paraje Altamira, 2020, Mendoza Argentina ($46)
Another winner from Zuccardi, this is a unique, standout Malbec that will make you rethink Argentina’s µagship grape. From the stoniest, most calcareous parcels, whole clusters are fermented with indigenous yeasts in unlined concrete vats where the wine continues its ageing. It is reductive upon opening so give it a good swirl to release all its µoral and dried herb fragrances. On the palate cherry and blueberry purity are at the fore. It comes across as straightforward initially then all that textural drama emerges. The gravelly, stony feel is redolent of minerals. Well-weighted and long. (MM)
Mullineux Old Vines White Swartland WO, 2020, Swartland South Africa ($47) I love all wines of Chris & Andrea Mullineux but I have a special aection for their whites. They are amongst some of the best whites the world of wine has to oer. The Old Vines is made from grapes coming from eight sustainably farmed parcels that are up to 66 years old. Just over 65% of the blend is Chenin Blanc with, in order of decreasing amounts: Clairette Blanche, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Semillon Gris and Verdelho. Great harmony in this wine where the richness is beautifully balanced by a saline character and crisp acid. Chalky and creamy texture with notes of pear, quince and chamomile mingling with a pleasant reductive character. Long nish! Simply magnicent. (MB)
Ochota Barrels Fugazi Grenache McLaren Vale, 2020, South Australia ($62)
Even though Taras Ochota made his wines with low intervention, he did not like to be referred to as a natural winemaker. His goal was to make pure wines, free of faults, that expressed the sites where they came from. 2020 was his last vintage which makes this beautiful wine extra special. Made from old dry grown bush vines planted on the sandy soils of Blewitt Springs, Fugazi is Grenache at its best. Pure and fresh with silky tannins and expressive notes of crushed raspberries, violets and dried herbs. Buy every bottle you can nd. (MB)
Frescobaldi Gorgona Costa Toscana IGT, 2021, Tuscany Italy ($120)
In 2012, Frescobaldi teamed up with the Gorgona Penal Institute on the island of Gorgona o the Tuscan coast. Inmates nish up their sentences working in the vineyard and cellar, learning skills that will help them re-integrate back into society. They are compensated just as anyone else would be. To date, there is 0% recidivism – contributing to social sustainability. A blend of Vermentino and Ansonica, this white captures the generous Mediterranean sunshine with ripe plump fruit as well as the sea air with a salty lick. Fleshy peach, papaya and sweet citrus are laced with sage, thyme and rosemary blossom. The leesy texture and mouth lling savoury brininess gives layers and depths. Round but refreshing, it would do justice to an elegant seafood feast but is equally capable of taking on chicken and pork. (MM)
Vin de la Neu Resistenti Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, 2020, Trentino-Alto Adige Italy ($160)
PIWI or fungal-resistant hybrid grapes varieties keep cropping up in conversations about sustainability. Proponents cite a signicant reduction in necessary vineyard treatments which results in less energy use and CO2 emissions from the production and application of fungicides. In the high reaches of Trentino’s Dolomiti foothills, Nicola Biasi is a PIWI champion. His intensely fragrant Johanniter explodes with green alpine herbs, preserved lemon and µint. The palate is equally penetrating with concentrated µavours of pure fresh pear oset by searing acidity. Think of a judiciously oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc for comparison – with a bit more midpalate weight. (MM)
QUENCH HOUSE WINES: What the editors and writers of Quench are drinking at home and why. William Fèvre Chile Espino Reserva Especial Chardonnay, 2021, Maipo Valley Chile ($15)
The renowned Chablis producer has worked his magic in Chile with this great value Chardonnay. Bright straw in colour with a lightly µoral, apple nose. Medium-bodied, dry and crisp with apple and white peach µavours. Great balance and great length. (TA)
Viña Perez Cruz, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva DO Valle de Maipo Andes, 2019, Chile ($17)
Great value, estate-bottled Cabernet Sauvignon blended with small amounts of Syrah, Carménère and Petit Verdot from a long established, substantial but family-owned winery that specializes in the variety. Classic varietal aromas with some leafy hints before a supple, juicy palate of dark red berries underpinned by good tannins with well managed oak through a solid close. Certied sustainable. Perfect with pizza and pasta on a Tuesday night but tastes more like a Friday night wine! (TP)
Tiberio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, 2020, Abruzzo Italy ($20)
One of my favorite house wines, this is truly an exceptional bottling of it. From vineyards located at an altitude of 350m near the village of Cugnoli in the foothills of the Apennines. Aromatically this has loads of violet µoral tones, smoky minerality, and dense red fruit. The palate follows through similarly with appetizing crunchy texture, slightly rustic tannin and perfect acid/tannin to fruit/body tension. Montepulciano in this place by these hands is something special indeed. (BD)
Domaine Boissan Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Sablet AOC, 2020, Rhône Valley France ($25)
A subtle blend of Marsanne and Roussanne from the hills of the Sablet village in the Rhône Valley. The two grapes combine to present a vibrant and dry wine with white plum, white peach-like µavours. Rich, round and fresh with a spiced and slight bitter salted almond nish. A perfect house wine that will delight all at the dinner table. (CS)
L’espiègle Aube à l’Est Chardonnay Vin du Québec IGP, 2020, Quebec Canada ($30)
A stunning place with vines planted on slopes beneting from a south and southeast exposure and good drainage. Meticulous work where every single detail is thought of. Wines with no make-up which express the cool climate of the place while still being ripe. A chalky texture with lemon balm, green apple and a salty tang on the nish that lingers. The wines of Quebec newcomer Zaché Hall are impressive, especially this Chardonnay. You might have to come to Quebec to nd it - but it’s well worth it. (MB) Bodega y Viñedos Nicolas Catena La Marchigiana Criolla Vino Natural Ancestral, 2019, Mendoza Argentina ($39) I rst tasted this wine in its ‘experimental’ stage. The nal product is even better than I had hoped or expected. Laura Catena and her winemaking team call on Chile’s Criolla Chica grape to hark back to how wine was made in times past. It’s aged in terracotta amphorae and bottled without any added sulfur dioxide. Right down to the throwback label and lightweight bottle, everything about La Marchigiana screams house wine to me. Pale ruby in colour, this is almost mistakable for a dark rosé, and, in fact, is best with a slight chill. It evokes cranberry and raspberry bush, bits of apple blossom and baby’s breath. Pleasantly tart, crunchy acidity and light crisp tannins frame the red berry core. Linear, mouth cleansing and joyfully drinkable at a modest 12.5% alcohol. (MM)
BEST OF THE REST: Wines that are Recommended and Highly Recommended by our experienced panel of tasters listed by price from low to high: HIGHLY RECOMMENDED Henry of Pelham Old Vines Baco Noir Ontario VQA, 2021, Canada ($20)
Henry of Pelham has cornered the market on Baco Noir. Always dependable, always tasty. Opaque purple-black in colour which speaks to the amount of dry extract. Smoky, toasty, blackberry bouquet. Medium to full-bodied and dry with µoral, spicy blackberry and black plum µavours. Beautifully balanced and almost Syrah-like in character. (TA)
Hester Creek Old Vine Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley BC VQA Golden Mile Bench, 2020, British Columbia Canada ($28)
Forward notes of vibrant, red berry fruits with violet, earthy and savoury notes lead to a medium to full-bodied palate. A denite mineral background is highlighted by damson, mulberry and spice that evolve in the glass through superbly balanced fruit and acidity. An exceptional varietal example from the Okanagan’s oldest Cabernet Franc plantings in an ideal vintage. (TP)
Three Sisters Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley BC VQA Naramata Bench, 2020, British Columbia Canada ($30)
Aromas of wild red berries with mineral hints precede a luscious and juicy palate of mulberry, raspberry, and damson, wrapped in well integrated tannins, with complex layers of cassis, clove, and mocha through the spicy, lengthy close. (TP)
Malivoire Le Coeur Gamay Beamsville Bench VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2021, Ontario Canada ($30)
Simply the best Gamay I have tasted from Malivoire. Ruby colour and µoral, cherry bouquet. Medium-bodied, dry, fruity and spicy with lively acidity. Well-extracted ripe cherry µavours and well-integrated oak. (TA)
Catena Malbec Vista Flores, 2019, Mendoza Argentina ($32)
The Catena family has been sourcing Malbec from the vineyards of Vista Flores for upwards of 70 years. Reaching 1100 metres above sea level, the site yields a balance of ripeness, structure and elegance – at least in this example. Dark cherry mingles with raspberry and the two are laced with nutmeg and vanilla nuances. Full and rich without being heavy, concentrated fruit is supported by ample yet rened tannins. This is dicult not to like and oers an excellent quality/price rapport. (MM)
Gul» Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, 2021, Sicily, Italy ($34)
A blend of 65% Nero d’Avola and 35% Frappato, Gul’s Cerasuolo provides unadulterated pleasure while capturing the essence of Sicily. The latest release, it is still violent purple in colour and just so fresh and pure. It leads with scents of cherry, wild broom and fennel. The palate is µeshy and crunchy, just like freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. It has tang and mouth cleansing grape tannins. A contender for my house wine. (MM)
La Mesma Monterotondo Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG, 2020, Piedmont Italy ($37)
Owned and operated by three sisters, La Mesma is a small Gavi estate and one of the shining lights in the zone. The Monterotondo bottling comes from 35-year-old vines on calcareous soil. It radiates loveliness. Scents of lees, lemon and white blossom lead to subtle yellow apple µavours. The seamless, palate is tinged with salty minerals and a touch of green almonds. There is nothing aggressive about this wine, nor does its graciousness lack character. (MM)
Bodegas Albamar Pai Rías Baixas DO, 2018, Galicia Spain ($40)
Braced by the Atlantic Sea, this wine of Spanish Galicia is like a linear beam of lemon-streaked sunlight illuminating a bouquet - white µowers, fresh and emanating an aroma of the morning garden - verdant wet, mineral and stone. (CS)
Domaine AF Gros Moulin-à-Vent AOC ‘En Mortperay’, 2019, Beaujolais France ($40)
Driven by a love of Gamay, this renowned Côte de Nuits producer purchased a few hectares of mostly 60-year-old vines in the lieu-dit of ‘En Mortperay’. Vinied like a Burgundy, this cru Beaujolais could be mistaken at rst for its more lauded brethren. Yet it has the intense spiciness and plush fruitiness of Moulin-à-Vent. Flavoursome and moreish, it exudes bramble berries and licorice root. The dense cranberry, sour red cherry core is oset by citrusy acidity. Tannins are evident but velvety in texture. This has a huge salivating factor. (MM)
Pietracupa Greco di Tufo DOCG, 2019, Campania Italy ($41)
Greco is one of Campania’s indigenous white gems, and Pietracupa cras a benchmark example. Pristine and precise, the nose is decidedly mineral driven with wet stone and citrus fragrances. On the palate, pure µeshy pear and crunchy nectarine kick in. This has breadth and volume but does not plod along as rm, steely acidity draws the wine eortlessly across the palate. Thrillingly energetic and full of µavour. (MM)
Gold Hill Winery Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley BC VQA ‘Oxbow Vineyard’, 2017, British Columbia Canada ($43)
Dense ruby colour. Spicy, µoral nose of blueberries with pipe tobacco and vanilla oak notes. Beautifully balanced and juicy with ripe tannins and lively acidity. (TA)
Vanessa Vineyards Right Bank Similkameen Valley BC VQA, 2017, British Columbia Canada ($45)
65% Merlot-dominant blend with 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Cabernet Franc. This is classic Similkameen, brimming with vibrant red and dark berry aromas, vanilla, and a touch of spice. On the palate, it’s plush and elegant with damson, blueberry, and lingering black pepper along with that streak of Similkameen mineral. Layered and complex, with well-integrated tannins and lively acidity, it keeps evolving in the glass. Enjoy now or put away for a few years yet. (TP)
Domaine les Arabesques Elanion Vin de France, 2020, Roussillon France ($48)
From vineyards located in the Roussillon, Saskia Van der Horst cras an energetic white wine of bruised and macerated peach, pear and apricot, scented with white pepper, wild thyme and garrigue. The aroma and mouthfeel are as expansive as they are ever changing from sip to sip. Sourced from old vine Macabeu, Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, this provides a serious µavour excursion. (CS)
Bachelder Pinot Noir Twenty Mile Bench VQA Niagara Peninsula ‘Wismer-Parke Wild West End’, 2020, Ontario Canada ($65)
The hallmark of this parcel of vines, tucked in the Wismer-Parke vineyard and composed of an unknown clone of Pinot Noir, is a savory, game, sanguine note that really shows us place is relevant. Bachelder is a champion of site-specic wines, and we are lucky to have him leading the charge on this sort of focus in Niagara. The wine is wild - the name says it all - and achieves power and elegance all at once. (BD)
Le Potazzine Rosso di Montalcino DOC, 2020, Tuscany Italy ($65)
Le Potazzine’s Rosso is the bomb! It is so gorgeously µoral with rose and lavender. Vibrant and sumptuous in fruit, the palate oers cherry and pink grapefruit. It is silky in texture with light powdery tannins giving a subtle grip. Very sapid and hunger inducing, this will drink beautifully for the next 6 to 7 years or so. (MM)
Weingut Gross Sudsteiermark DAC ‘Reid Nussberg’, 2017, Styria Austria ($80)
These Sauvignon Blanc grapes were grown in the renowned Nussberg vineyard on south-southwest facing slopes in the warm Ratsche valley in Styria, achieving excellent ripeness whilst also enjoying the cool nights that give freshness and structure to the wine. I got lost in the aromas. Like the greats of Sancerre, it is complex and easy to admire. Rosemary, fennel, green cardamom, lime, white grapefruit, peach, nectarine, struck µint and grated celeriac. On the palate, a plume begins with focused acidity then moves outwards to a mineral texture and dense core with a lingering, edgy nish. (BD)
Domaine Belargus Gaudrets Savennières AOC, 2018, Loire Valley France ($92)
Attention Chenin Blanc fans! While Belargus’ calling card may be its dry Quarts de Chaume (under the name Ronceray), this Savennières is no slouch. It is like liquid rock and dewy µowers. Full and structured, the succulent pear and guava core is pierced by racy acidity and zingy minerality. Such depth and tactile pleasure. I’d even bet on it in the cellar 8 to 10 years. (MM)
Patrick Desplats Brahma Vin de France, 2020, Loire Valley France ($106)
Patrick Desplats is a winemaker who with each vintage, gets closer and closer to nature in all her perfect imperfections. All his 2020 cuvées are raised in Qvevri and the result here is astonishingly exquisite. Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc transform into a delightful chimera of tropical and orchard fruit, with pomelo and grapefruit citrus in aroma and palate. (CS)
Patrick Desplats Epona Vin de France, 2020, Loire Valley France ($106)
A single vineyard blend of 20+ varieties dominated by Pineau d’Aunis and Chenin Blanc. Through the translucent electric ruby red hue of this wine, one dives into a scent that is bright, µoral, juicy and peppered with aromas of some mysterious garden that you can imagine you will only visit through tasting of this wine. The mouthfeel of this wine is as ripe as any red currant - or like the burst of juice from a pomegranate seed. (CS)
RECOMMENDED Uko Estate Select Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Valle de Uco, 2019, Mendoza Argentina ($18)
A well-priced, good example of high-altitude Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas are decidedly red fruited – fresh and lied with accents of tobacco and coee. Red currant provides the backdrop on the palate where ne-grained tannins grip suciently to give shape and form. Nice texture and µow. Finishes with green herbal nuances. (MM)
Ivory & Burt Old Vine Zinfandel Lodi, 2019, California USA ($20)
Deep ruby in colour with an earthy, leathery, blackberry nose. Full-bodied, dry and richly extracted. Meaty but well-balanced with evident but mellow oak, nishing on a minty note. (TA)
Bodega Atamisque Serbal Malbec Tupungato, Valle de Uco, 2021, Mendoza Argentina ($23)
Serbal is as pretty as its label which sports a drawing of the native atamisque bush. The wine sees just 3 months in barrel, with the rest of the time in stainless steel to highlight Malbec’s fruit and µoral charms. Violet and dusty lavender wa eusively from the glass. The palate is playful and buoyant with ripe raspberry and succulent plum. So tannins lend sandy texture. (MM)
Stag’s Hollow Dolcetto Rosato Okanagan Valley BC VQA Okanagan Falls, 2021, British Columbia Canada ($24)
Vibrant crimson in the glass complements bright, vibrant red berry aromas with a hint of mineral. Juicy cherry and cranberry on the palate supported by excellent acidity for a refreshing, intensely focused and very food friendly drop. With structure and balanced tannins, this Dolcetto is a solid alternative to paler coloured rosés. (TP)
Amalaya Malbec Valle Calchaquí, 2020, Salta Argentina ($24)
Scents of pepper and snappy spice with lovely lilac and plum chasing behind. Ripe sumptuous fruit ll the palate gently girdled by chocolaty tannins. This is quite zippy in its acidity. Mint and licorice add nuance. Malbec gets a little help here from 10% Tannat and 5% Petit Verdot. (MM)
Mooncurser Arneis Okanagan Valley BC VQA, 2021, British Columbia Canada ($27)
Complex aromas of orchard and stone fruits with some background herbal hints lead to a mouth-watering palate of citrus, apple and kiwi, framed in a perfect balance of fruit and natural acidity through a lengthy, mineral nish. Despite the searing heat dome early in the growing season, the freshness and acidity are still retained. Pairings? Think scallops with cream sauce or a Hangtown Fry—a fresh oyster frittata with lashings of French tarragon. A true rarity (the only known Arneis in the country), it comes from loamy, silica and granite soils in the estate vineyard on Osoyoos East Bench, at the foot of the winding road that ascends Anarchist Mountain. (TP)
Hester Creek Old Vine Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley BC VQA Golden Mile Bench, 2020, British Columbia Canada ($28)
Deep ruby in colour. Cedary, lightly µoral nose of black plum and black olive with toasty oak notes. Medium-bodied and savoury with juicy blackcurrant and plum µavours. Balancing acidity and rm but ripe tannins. (TA)
Bernard et Benoit Landron ‘Melon B’ Muscadet-Coteaux-de-la-Loire AOC, 2020, Loire France ($30)
Think back to the very rst memories of enjoying Muscadet. ‘THE’ Muscadet that actually was that saline nectar of the sea that you felt was so elusive. Gently rolling over the palate with lemon freshness, slightly viscosity from 6 month on lees nishing with a sensuality akin to a naked oyster freshly plucked from the sea. (CS)
Pinard et Filles Frangin Rouge, 2020, Quebec Canada ($35)
Equal parts of the 3 grapes known as Marquette, Petite Perle and Frontenac Noir. Enjoy this wine gently chilled, which helps only to bring into focus the energetic deep, dark bramble fruits. Savoury, earthy, peppery and fruity are but a few ways to describe this wine. (CS)
Longarico Nostrale Terre Siciliane IGT, 2021, Sicily Italy ($37)
A wine based on the white grape Catarratto, this exudes rich white µoral intensity into pear and peach nectar, to white plum aroma. Simple yet complex, pretty and µoral, very engaging on the nose and palate with a fresh streak of citrus. (CS)
Bodega Lagarde Guarda Malbec Colecciónde Viñedos Luján de Cuyo, 2019, Mendoza Argentina ($38)
Opening notes of cedar and sweet wood spices make way for dark red cherry underneath. This expands across the palate with rich plump blackberry fruit and silky tannins that layer up towards the nish. Juicy acidity gives vibrancy, and this nishes with accents of bitter chocolate. (MM)
Patrick Piuze Bourgogne-Côtes-d’Auxerre AOC, 2019, Burgundy France ($40)
Piuze, a Quebec native, is established as one of the top winemakers of Chablis in the 21st century. Though he works with purchased fruit rather than owned vineyards, he is well connected to the growing process and champions sense of place. This wine takes him outside of the boundaries of Chablis, into the greater Yonne region, close to neighboring Saint-Bris. This Chardonnay shows a lean, racy style, not as mineral-driven as Chablis tends to be, but with a fruit-forward, approachable character. I love how easy-going, ready-to-drink it is. (BD)
Bachelder Chardonnay Lincoln Lakeshore VQA Niagara Peninsula ‘Grimsby Hillside Red Clay Barn Block’, 2020, Ontario Canada ($49)
Bachelder really drills down to site in his Grimbsy-Hillside bottlings, separating into two expressions, this lower lying, clay-limestone parcel (as opposed to the equally delicious ‘Frontier block’ - higher elevation and stonier). Despite being close to Lake Ontario, this is aligned with how we would sense a Niagara Bench wine - rm structure, stony and elegant. There is a depth to this wine that is the result of a warm, long vintage and exposed, breezy site. The corresponding concentration of aromas and µavours is captivating. (BD)
Leaning Post Chardonnay Lincoln Lakeshore VQA Niagara Peninsula ‘Senchuk Vineyard’, 2019, Ontario Canada ($50)
A cooler year that allowed a long hang time for Chardonnay at the Leaning Post home vineyard, located in the extreme west end of Niagara Peninsula. The vineyard is young and certainly showing its promise. A complex wine, ranging in ripe to tart fruit character, µinted rock, white sage, and a hint of barrel spice. On the palate, a deceiving concentration and weight as the structure of the wine is on the lean, focused side. Long, long nish, lingering on mineral tones. If this wine were music, it would be a Joe Cocker guitar ri, edgy and persistent. (BD)
Villa al Cortile Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, 2016, Tuscany Italy ($65)
From a solid vintage and combining fruit from north (Montosoli) and south (near Lavacchio) Montalcino. Lots of power and grace co-existing here. Aromatically, this is still quite youthful, full of wild cherry, lavender, incense, and some smoky earthiness creeping in. On the palate, explosive, bringing forth strawberry licorice, bright acidity and rm, tight tannins. It would benet to age this a further 3-5 years, and can go longer depending on your tastes. (BD)
Barbacan Sol Valtellina Superiore DOCG Valgella, 2019, Lombardia Italy ($72)
From terraced alpine vineyards of northern Lombardy, this Nebbiolo exudes warm earthy spices, wild plum and warmed dark berry with an earthy mushroom-ness and dried forest µoor that is indicative of ne Nebbiolo. The palate provides pleasing harmony of spice and berry with approachable and rm tannin. Saline and very ne nish. (CS)
Clos i Terrasses Laurel Priorat DO, 2019, Catalonia Spain ($99)
A so-called second wine to Clos Erasmus, but really a standalone that is not in any shadow. Craed from younger vines, though they are established organic and biodynamic. This is aged in a range of vessels including older barrel, concrete and oak vats and blended by the skilled hands of Daphne Glorian. Deep red fruit character, rich savoury cherry compote, baked earth, charred rosemary. The palate is robust and generous, with ripe, rounded tannins, warming alcohol, and enough freshness to balance it out. Meant to be enjoyed in its youth but can certainly age 5 years more. (BD)
BEFORE… Sparkling wines, no sherries, other wines that would traditionally be served before dinner. Bernard-Massard Cuvée de l’Écusson Brut, NV, Luxembourg ($22)
A hidden gem. A blend of 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Blanc, 15% Pinot Noir and 10% Riesling from vineyards overlooking the Moselle River. Active mousse of tiny bubbles and bready nose. Medium-bodied and dry with well-extracted apple and pear µavours. I welcomed in 2023 with this delightful sparkler. (TA)
Blue Mountain Brut Rosé Okanagan Valley, 2018, British Columbia Canada ($45)
Blue Mountain is a top address for sparkling wine in British Columbia and the estate’s Brut Rosé rivals pink bubble from any destination. With 30 months on the lees, it is toasty and redolent of fresh baked scones. There is well played richness balanced by tangy acidity and a rened mousse, along with great depth of raspberry and strawberry µavours. (MM)
Hidden Bench Blanc de Blanc Beamsville Bench VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2014, Ontario Canada ($48)
From organically farmed Locust Lane estate vineyard in a cooler year, with a small crop and concentrated fruit. All signs point to yes. This is delicious. Aromatically delicate, with pretty notes of green apple, pear, apple blossom, µinty minerality, and yeasty but not baked bread notes. This is a zero dosage, taut style with 4 years of lees aging before disgorgement and a further several years prior to release. Lingering on the nish, it ends with rm, appetite awakening freshness. Exceptional, and frankly a steal of a price for the quality. (BD)
Noble Ridge The One Okanagan Valley BC VQA Okanagan Falls, 2017, British Columbia Canada ($48)
A classic blend of mainly Chardonnay with Pinot Noir. The winery’s sparkling µagship yields toasty brioche notes up front, a persistent mousse and ne bubbles, orchard and stone fruits with distinct mineral hints, broadly textured mouthfeel with excellent fruit - acid balance and a lingering, zesty close. (TP)
Champagne Bruno Paillard Cuvée ExtraBrut Champagne AOC, NV, France ($73)
(Pinot noir 45%, Chardonnay 33%, Pinot Meunier 22%) This Champagne will please those who seek a rich and creamy style. Full bodied with generous notes of acacia, brioche and fresh pastry balanced by searing acidity. Fine bubbles with a well-integrated dosage of 6.5g/l of sugar. It displays elegance and nesse despite its generous prole. A brilliant match with gougères. (MB)
SPIRITS Saint Benevolence Rum Clairin
“Bwason Pou Bonte” (drink to goodness) is what you’re supposed to do with this unique clairin, a traditional un-oaked sugarcane distillate from the Saint-Michel de l’Attalaye commune in Haiti. Saint Benevolence donates all its prots to a charitable fund that helps build schools, hospitals and homes in Haiti. Even without that, it’s a delightful drink with an earthy mushroom aroma and a bright, tropical fruit µavour prole and a lingering icing sugar nish. Note: Unaged sugarcane spirits can be pungent at rst, so open the bottle in advance and allow it time to breathe. (CSO)
Saint Benevolence Five-Year-Rum
Even though the liquid in this Saint Benevolence expression isn’t from Haiti, all prots from this enterprise still support charitable projects in Haiti. This rum is a blend of cane syrup spirit distilled in the Dominican Republic and molasses-based rum from Barbados that’s been aged for ve years in ex-Bourbon whiskey casks. It’s light golden in colour and tastes of vanilla, light honey, subtle ripe mango and a delicate hit of cinnamon and spice on the nish. (CSO)
Clairin Sajous de Saint-Michel de l’Attalaye Rhum Agricole
This Clairin is also made in Saint-Michel de l’Attalaye, although at a dierent family farm distillery than Saint Benevolence. Despite being neighbours, there’s quite a distinct dierence between the Saint Benevolence, which is from the Dorcinvil family distillery and the Chelo distillery owned and operated by Michel Sajous. The aroma has a touch of bubble gum, but the µavour prole is all herbs, spice and a distinct taste of fresh grass that all winds up on a long note of cane syrup and vanilla. Note: Unaged sugarcane spirits can be pungent at rst, so open the bottle in advance and allow it time to breathe. (CSO)
Canoubier Caribbean Rum
Finished in old Cognac barrels in the cellar at Distillerie des Moisans in France, this blend of Caribbean rum is extraordinarily mellow and buttery with quite pronounced tropical fruits, such as ripe banana and a fragrant coconut µavour that lingers long aer the baking spice fades. (CSO)
Flor de Caña Rum 30-Year-Old
From a distillery known for its extraordinary aging projects—generally in ex-bourbon American oak—this three-decade old single barrel rum is rich, buttery and luxurious, with plenty of the ripe banana, pineapple, coee and chocolate notes and a little touch of dry cigar box at the end. An extraordinary special occasion splurge. (CSO)
Distillerie SheAEord Acérum White
Although it’s not cheap or easy to make, maple distillate is a growing category in the Quebec cra spirits scene, since, well, doesn’t everyone want to drink a liquor made from their favourite pancake topping? Distillerie Sheord is one of the pioneers of this lovely spirit that drinks like a well-made and smooth rum with some stone fruit notes and a distinctly sweet maple nish. (CSO)
Distillerie SheAEord Acérum Brown
The colour of this lightly-aged spirit is really more straw or golden than brown but a little time spent in wood reveals the potential of aging maple spirit. This expression has more depth of µavour, a hint of tannin and a dab of vanilla— similar to the way a reposado tequila has picked up a little fresh inµuence, but not so much that it isn’t clearly a maple spirit at heart. (CSO)
Nikka Whisky Yoichi Single Malt Japanese Whisky ($92)
The rst Nikka distillery was built in 1934 on Hokkaido, Japan’s second main island. Those who appreciate a more “seaside” style with a bit of peat - or those who like the concept of a malt aged close to the sea but nd the Islay expressions just a bit too much - will really appreciate Nikka’s µagship whisky. This is an intriguing whisky with delicate - though obvious - notes of brine and smoke. However, these are tempered by µoral/lemongrass undertones. Powerful, but in no way overpowering, it oers a collage of µavours that nicely combine salty, smoky, malty, and fruity…with just a hint of cracked pepper in the end note. (TS)
Nikka Whisky Yoichi Single Malt NonPeated Limited Edition 2021 Japanese Whisky ($280)
With its “Discovery Series,” Nikka turns the tables a bit with this spirit. Unlike the peated bottling, this Yoichi Limited Edition employed a coal-red distillation to render a whisky that emphasizes a delicate pear-like fruitiness, with suggestions of citrus, combined with a hint of smoke and malt, all delivered in a plush, enveloping mouthfeel. (TS)
Nikka Miyagikyo Single Malt Japanese Whisky ($92)
Constructed in 1969, Miyagikyo is the second of Nikka’s two distilleries. Stylistically, Miyagikyo can probably best be seen as the “highland” to the Yoichi’s more “island” style. There’s some evident sherry cask aging going on here, resulting in aromatics that feature sultana, baking spice, pear drop, and orange peel. Dry and elegantly structured, with beautiful balance and just a suggestion of smoke on the palate. A subtle fruitiness reappears as the µavours trail o. (TS)
Nikka Miyagikyo Single Malt Peated Limited Edition 2021 Japanese Whisky ($280)
As previously noted, Miyagikyo typically plays highland to Yoichi’s island style, but once again things have been switched for this edition with batches of peated malt being used in the mash bill. Notes of brine and smoke with µoral/lemongrass undertones and a nice balance between salty, smoky, malty, and fruity…with a hint of cracked pepper on the nish. (TS)
Nikka CoAEey Grain Japanese Whisky ($89)
A grain whisky from a continuous still probably shouldn’t be this good…but it is very good, indeed. In fact, whisky expert Jim Murray has rated past vintages of this expression “Japanese Whisky of the Year” three times over the course of ve years. Fragrant, biscuity notes swill around dollops of pear, with just a mild touch of smokiness. So and mellow in the mouth, with surprising complexity that leads to a long, mildly fruity nish. (TS)
Nikka From The Barrel Japanese Whisky ($69; 500ml)
An artfully blended Japanese whisky bottled at cask strength. Unless you have a rather strong constitution (and perhaps an ironclad palate) you’ll want to dilute this slightly to take the heat down a bit - and “unlock” the aromas. Your dilution factor will obviously aect the prole of the whisky, but expect a nose redolent of orange marmalade, treacle, toasted nuts, nougat, and cocoa powder. This is a big, powerful, warm whisky that sports µavour notes of toee, buttered nuts, dark chocolate, and spice cake. In spite of the power and complexity, it retains Nikka’s “house style” that emphasizes impeccable balance over brute power. (TS)
Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye Whisky ($85)
The annual release of this limited edition award-winning rye bomb clocks in at muscular 63.7 per cent ABV. Not for the timid (and denitely benetting from a dollop of water), this is a bold, punchy whisky driven by spicy rye notes, vanilla nuances, and some dark berry aromas. Spicy and assertive in the mouth, but not without some gentleness and delicacy woven in. Though it may not be quite as seamless as last year’s outstanding oering, this is a truly iconic Canadian whisky that condently hoists the µag for our county’s contribution to the world of classic spirits. (TS)
Dillon’s Single Grain ‘Three Oaks’ Rye Whisky ($50)
Geo Dillon’s dream was to create an authentic Canadian Rye Whisky, and he’s done so admirably here. Made from a mash bill of 100% Ontario rye and aged (as the name suggests) in a combination of new Ontario oak, new American oak, and rst-ll bourbon barrels, it shows classic, spicy/dusty rye on the nose, with a hint of dried citrus peel. Warm, round, and balanced in the
mouth, with layers of fruity/spicy rye, vanilla, and caramel, it’s quite elegant and gentle, while remaining elegant and complex. (TS)
Canadian Club Chronicles ‘The Icon’ 45 Years Old ($500)
There’s denitely been a North American “rye renaissance,” but the reality is that corn is still king of the grains both north and south of the border. This isn’t a bad thing at all, especially when you consider the Canadian Club Chronicles expressions. Starting with the 41 Years Old, the range has progressed from year to year, cumulating in this awesome spirit. Oering up intense baking spice, dark fruit, caramel, cocoa powder, and a hint of charred wood on the nose, it segues into powerful yet elegant notes of plum, spice, and smoky dried citrus that seem to last forever. A glorious example of what a Canadian whisky can be. (TS)
Stalk & Barrel Whisky ($32)
The “two Barrys” (Stein and Bernstein) behind Ontario’s Still Waters Distillery are Canadian cra distilling pioneers. Their Stalk & Barrel whisky delivers plenty of vanilla, plus butterscotch, baked apple, and marshmallow, with an interesting herbal quality. Round and viscous, with spicy/dusty rye with a touch of pear in the mouth, along with a smattering of vanilla and toee. Crisp on the nish, with a lingering grind of white pepper. (TS)
Templeton 6 Year Old Straight Rye Whiskey ($55)
This is distilled from a mash of 95% rye and 5% malted barley and aged 6 years in charred American oak barrels. Expect to nd intense aromas of butterscotch, vanilla, dark cherry, and a hint of spring µowers, all underpinned with classic rye spiciness. Vibrant and spicy in the mouth, with nuances of caramel and dark berries that fade slowly on the nish. Enjoy neat, over ice, or in a classic cra whiskey cocktail. (TS)
Reifel Rye ($50)
Among the many highlights of last year’s stay at “Rye Ranch” (courtesy of Alberta Distillers Ltd.) was being one of the rst “civilians” to taste the distillery’s latest expression. A “high rye” number (yes, you can make a Canadian “rye” without using any rye at all) showing distinctive, dusty/spicy rye on the nose, with subtle hints of vanilla custard and dried fruit. Smooth, warm, mildly fruity/spicy and beautifully balanced. (TS)
Highland Park ‘Viking Honour’ 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($85)
From way up in the Orkneys, this delivers some heather-honey sweetness with a bare hint of peaty smokiness on the nose that carry over to a rich, fruity/malty/mildly smoky µavours. The peat used in the north is quite dierent than that found further south on Islay, so those kelp/ iodine notes are nowhere to be found in this dram. (TS)
Highland Park ‘Viking Heart’ 15 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($154)
In my books, Highland Park can do very little (if anything) wrong, and this 15-year-old doesn’t change my opinion…at all. The trademark HP aromatic prole - a hint of sherry, heather, mild smoke and briny sea spray (with some milk chocolate and candied almond) is here in spades, and all the aromatic elements weave together on the palate in a wonderfully integrated tapestry of ripe fruit, malt, subtle smoke and gentle spice that lingers on and on. (TS)
Highland Park ‘Viking Pride’ 18 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($230)
Take everything the 15 Year Old has and toss in some added complexity in the form of some fruity pear nuances, and slightly more intense char character. Flavours of toee, dried fruits, and toasted almond intermingle on the rich palate, along with some buckwheat honey, and µoral/gently peaty suggestions that persist on the lengthy nish. (TS)
Highland Park 21 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($500)
This fabulous expression owes much of its character though aging in three types of wood (sherry, European, American). Marmalade and ginger µavours are enhanced by a dollop of sultana, fruitcake, toee, smoke, and cocoa powder. Dry and spicy in the mouth, it delivers a full, viscous mouthfeel. Flavours are redolent of dried fruit, with a subtle earthiness, and a hint of aged wood. In spite of its richness, there’s a lively peppery quality to zip things through the nal notes. (TS)
Bowmore 12 Years Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($65)
If I had a “house scotch” (and maybe it’s about time I did), Bowmore 12 would be it. Not as overtly peaty as some other Islay malts, but nonetheless smoky, briny, and with a character that denes the Bowmore style - at once powerful and assertive, yet surprisingly gentle, with distinct sweet citrus fruit and chocolate µavours intermingled amongst the muscle. (TS)
Bowmore 15 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($110)
As expected, this expression oers up more layers of complexity. Mellow mahogany in the glass. Aromatically, expect creamy caramel toffee with ripe fruit and smoke aromas - and that unmistakeable Bowmore “something.” Incredibly complex, with beautiful so fruit and cocoa, balanced with a light smokiness that glides into the long, slightly saline nish. (TS)
Bowmore 18 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($185)
There was clearly a split in the room when the 15-year-old expression was tasted against this 18-year-old. While both expressions are unmistakably Bowmore, the 18 Year Old seems a bit more plush, with more rich, sherry/sultana, and dried fruit aromatic elements interlaced with Bowmore’s characteristic seaside character. The palate is warm, luxurious, and chocolate-tinged, with intense µavours that lingers into the hauntingly long nish. (TS)
Bowmore ‘Master’s Selection’ Edition One 21 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($850)
Bowmore’s partnership with luxury automobile maker Aston Martin has yielded a number of unique and limited oerings, including those in the ‘Master’s Selection’ range, with packaging as glorious (almost) as the liquid within. Multi-layered, it’s aromatic prole covers a gamut - from smoke/brine/peat/leather to praline/wild honey/candied citrus/toee. Assertive and ery, viscous and mouth-lling, this amazing dram straddles that delicate line between poise and power - and pulls it o beautifully. Try pairing with some fresh, high-end chocolate like Läderach - you’ll be pleasantly surprised. (TS)
Bowmore ‘Master’s Selection’ Edition Two 22 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($650)
Maybe being driven to the launch of this expression in the shotgun seat of an Aston Martin DBX707 unconsciously coloured my opinion of this malt in a positive way (though we didn’t really get the chance to punch the beast’s 700hp engine in Toronto rush hour trac). In any case, a dram of this was the highlight of the evening. Some honey and dried fruit to start, with tobacco leaf and clove µowing into traces of red fruit. Full-bodied and multilayered, with µavours ranging from tangy/saline/iodine, through to baking spice, and some sweet, fruity notes. Try with high-end chocolate like Läderach. (TS)
Laphroaig 10 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($88)
Big, bold, and in-your-face; either you love this style of malt or, well, you don’t (and likely, you really don’t). Kelpy and briny, with medicinal/ iodine aromatic notes, it’s full-bodied, forward, and smoky, though there are some sweet notes intermingled amongst the sea salt and smoke nuances. Long and medicinal on the nish. Subtle? No. Delicate? Ha. Nirvana for the fans? Denitely. (TS)
Laphroaig 10 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky Sherry Oak Finish ($100)
Finished in oloroso sherry casks, this expression oers fragrant and peaty, with traces of honey and the characteristic “seaside” notes found in many Islay drams. The honey reappears on the palate, along with some medicinal notes, cloves, and suggestions of grilled smoky bacon. There’s also a dash of new leather, and pine, as well as treacle toee, maple syrup, dark chocolate. (TS)
Laphroaig Quarter Cask Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($100)
This expression begins its maturation in ex-bourbon barrels before being transferred to small quarter casks. The result is a whisky oering up aromatics of peat-tinged replace embers with hints of coconut and banana as well as the characteristic Laphroaig punch and power. The long nish hints at smoke and gentle, slightly sweet baking spice. (TS)
Laphroaig Lore Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($225)
Spirits selected for this luxury malt range in age from seven to 21 years and have been sourced from a variety of barrel types, including oloroso sherry butts, ex-bourbon barrels, and quarter casks. Rich and smoky with seaside minerals and a hint of ash and bitter chocolate, this full-bodied dram features loads of peaty, maritime µavours with a distinct, spicy (cayenne pepper?) kick on the tail end. Unique, somewhat surprising, but unmistakably Laphroaig. (TS)
BEER Brock Street Brewing Co. Triple Threat Belgian Tripel, Whitby ON, Canada
Having opened their doors in 2015, Brock Street’s taproom and bottle shop sports a banquet hall and elevated gastropub that makes them something of a social hub in the downtown area of Whitby and a popular place for events. At 9.5% ABV, the Triple Threat boasts so alcohol warmth with banana, citrus, and clove notes in a malty base. Flavours of dried fruit and spices linger throughout right up to a slightly peppery nish. (RL)
Shacklands Brewing Co. Tripel, Toronto ON, Canada
I think it’s pretty well established by this point what a gem Shacklands Brewing in Toronto is. Located deep in the Junction area, their Belgian-inspired beers have won awards and captured the hearts of many a beer-lover. And their eclectic taproom makes for a welcoming visit no matter what season. The award-winning Tripel is the brewery’s…well, it kind of feels like their µagship at this point, as they’re quite known for it. Can-conditioned and so in alcohol notes, banana and clove hit hard with this one, featuring a touch of nutmeg that lingers towards the end. The beer hides its strength very well. (RL)
Folly Brewpub These Three Kings, Toronto ON, Canada
Folly has undergone a few changes in ownership over the years and the current owners have ended up being a rather understated member of Toronto’s beer scene that has produced some truly comforting and delicious beers. This release, initially made in conjunction with International Tripel Day back in March, is rife with coriander, white pepper, and citrus, starting slightly sweet but nishing rather dry. (RL)
Meuse Brewing Co. 2023 Tripel, Scotland ON, Canada
Not only are the married couple that runs Meuse the critically acclaimed masters of Belgian-style beers in Ontario (and rightfully so), their beers available on their web site are some of the most aordable in all the province, meaning no one has any excuse to not try them. The 2023 version of their Tripel, made for International Tripel Day over the spring, exhibits a beautiful dried fruit character along with some hints of banana and clove propped up with a so malty-sweet backbone. One might wonder what it would be like aer a year of aging. (RL)
Counterpart Brewing Rhythm Double IPA, Niagara Falls ON, Canada
Located in an industrial plaza in the north end of Niagara Falls, Counterpart has been a place of comforting food, good company, and excellent beers since it opened in 2019. The Rhythm Double IPA is a strong one at 8.2% ABV, but an otherwise fruity beverage with peach, orange, pineapple, and passionfruit crammed in there along with some bitter grapefruit pith to make for a slightly bitter nish. (RL)
Spearhead Brewing Co. Dragon Slayer ESB, Kingston ON, Canada
Did you know that as of 2021 the BJCP doesn’t count Fuller’s ESB, the denitive beer of the style, an ESB? This was a troubling realization for beer writer, George Brown Beer teacher, and occasional Quench contributor Jordan St. John, who set out to make one so that he could teach it in his class. Basing the recipe on the original Fuller’s ESB from the 1970s, the beer pours a deep amber and has warming malt notes and earthy English hop character. It’s as traditional as you can get, and all with a portion of proceeds going to Lunch By George in Kingston, which helps feed 125 people daily. (RL)
Godspeed Brewery Bůh Specialni Edice, Toronto ON, Canada
In 2022 Toronto’s Godspeed Brewery launched collaborations between them and the true Budweiser Brewery (not the American one that makes Bud Light, but the Czech one, also known as Czechvar or Budvar, that makes one of the gold standards for traditional Czech pilsner). The resulting beer, Bůh Specialni Edice, is a masterwork of subtlety. A crisp beer that is perfect for any occasion. It’s almost hard to explain what the µavours of the beer are, because it’s so so and smooth, that it’s easy to just forget what you’re doing. Nice grassy notes, mild bitterness, and so, cloudy malt character that makes for a truly special beer. (RL)
Mountainview Brewing Forecast Says West Coast IPA, Hope BC, Canada
Because what’s a beer from the west coast if it isn’t hoppy? The Forecast Says is a dry-hopped IPA with amarillo, Azacca, and Ahtanum, which makes for a citrusy and fruity explosion that tries to dance the line between sweet and bitter. (RL)
Elora Brewing Jetpack Black Pilsner, Elora ON, Canada
Elora is a wonderful spot in Ontario that oers up a fantastic respite from the noise of the world and brings in some fantastic beers incorporating some stellar art. The Jetpack Black Pilsner is one of two pilsner variants the brewery released, and describes itself as a little toasty and a lot of crispy. Making use of eight malts as well as Hallertau hops, the result is a black pilsner with very restrained roasted characters and a smooth, malty mouthfeel featuring hints of coee and toast. (RL)
Beau’s All Natural Brewing Co. Lug Lite, Toronto ON, Canada
Since we last tried anything from Beau’s, the Vankleek Hill brewery had joined forces with Toronto’s Steam Whistle Brewing, with the latter taking charge of brewing while making use of Beau’s extensive marketing and client list. This latest addition to their core lineup is not wholly unfamiliar ground for Steam Whistle’s session beer from a few years back so the 4% ABV isn’t so low it would be lacking in µavour. The beer makes use of the mix of barley, wheat, and German hops that the original lug has, and the µavour retains the µoral and slightly fruity notes of the original, with a clean, crisp nish. (RL)