WINE WORLD

If you, like me, are always curious about new and different wine grapes here’s one you likely haven’t tried. Meet Refosco, a grape occasionally found in a blend from the Veneto. Until Grandarella, a Masi wine appeared here, the only place I’ve seen it is in Slovenian reds, and in another quite inexpensive Masi red, Modello.

There are actually six varieties of Refosco, a couple of which are near extinction. Given the Italian interest in autochthonous varietals all of ‘em will probably show up in ten years or so. So far, there are only two varieties in commercial production in Italy: Refosco Dal Peducolo Rosso and the more popular Refosco di Faedis. (Cork dorks everywhere sleep better for knowing that bit of trivia.)

Masi, always willing to push the envelope, has introduced Grandarella, an Appassimento wine made entirely from Refosco from the Friuli Grave region north of Venice. Masi has added a twist here via using their knowledge of the Appassimento vinification to make a rich, luxurious wine for not a tremendous amount of money.

The resulting wine is very dark, almost black. There is some great fruit in the bouquet, with a bit of herbs. The palate is extremely well structured (a must for such decadent wines) and the resulting wine really should spend at least another ten years in your cellar before drinking. Fresh out of the bottle it has enough tannin to give Cabernet Sauvignon a run for the money.

If you like to eat game or red meat or mature cheeses, this is the wine for you. I would suggest serving it close to room temperature and if you aren’t going to store it, decanting it. Masi Grandarella 2011 $27 *****

Next week the Italian cocktail du jour. Other wines on Twitter @drbooze.