Moscato Giallo makes for an aromatic aperitif

Muscat, or Moscato, or Moscatel, is a grape that is amongst the oldest cultivated, as demonstrated by the abundance of adjectives and offspring (e.g. Muscat of Alexandria.) I figured I knew most of them fairly well, but came across a new one, Moscato Giallo from the Dolomites. I think of the region as part of the Veneto, the hinterland of Medieval Venice and currently an Italian province.

Like most border areas, there has been a fair amount of mixing over the centuries. It’s an area that is half Austrian and Swiss, so it isn’t unusual to find both grapes we associate with the Germans, like Riesling, and names that are clearly Germanic in origin.

I came across such a wine the other day at the Coop, Pfefferer Moscato Giallo. Moscato is all the rage these days, selling by the container-load to primarily young women. Mostly they are buying the ultra sweet Australian versions. Which is a shame because the Europeans make any number of dry Moscato that make a fabulous drink.

All of them sweet or dry share a medium weight and exotic floral aromas. The trademark of Muscat is that it is so very aromatic. Many other aromatic varietals (e.g. Torrontes) owe their perfume to some genetic inheritance from the Muscat grape.

The Pfefferer is bone dry, but has that lovely floral perfume of a good Muscat. Giallo is a white grape, producing slightly darker and more viscous wines. The wine isn’t quite bone dry, but it is definitely a dry white wine with flavours of citrus, honey and apples.

If you’re looking for something different in an aperitif, or to go with grilled white fish or shrimp, the Pfefferer is a great choice. Pfefferer Moscato Giallo $25 ***** Another oddball grape blend next week. Other wines on Twitter @drbooze.