SKIN GURU BARES HER SECRETS
Alexandra Soveral’s approach to beauty is rigorous, but simple
Alexandra Soveral, a massage specialist who studied philosophy and biochemistry and formulates her own organic skin-care range, has been on my radar, plus my speed dial (and those of many other fashion and beauty editors), for years. An implausibly youthful-looking
47, she cured her own acne and swears she has massaged away an incipient double chin.
This is not the usual beauty BS. Soveral has more integrity than is good for her bank balance and has turned down many offers from bigger industry players because they would have compromised her standards. When she’s not hands-on with clients, she’s mixing up organic formulae, often using ingredients from the family farm in Portugal.
Now she’s sharing her straighttalking wisdom in her first book, Perfect Skin: Unlocking The Secrets, a thoroughly researched blend of science and empirically based lessons passed on to her by her Portuguese mother, who, at age 75, still massages her own flawless skin every day.
In an age of peels, lasers, fillers, spray tans and contouring vlogs, Soveral’s rigorous yet uncomplicated approach is profoundly reassuring. “One of the biggest problems with skin today,” she says, “is overload. We’re piling on too many chemical products and assaulting it with ever more invasive procedures.”
Soveral chatted about the key points of her book.
Q What are the ground rules for healthy skin?
A Obviously sleep, diet, being sensible about alcohol, not smoking. Looking at your hormones can make a huge difference. Too much DHT (hormone derived from testosterone) can cause break-outs. Too little can dry out skin. Estrogen is the fountain of youth, where skin in concerned, helping to stave off sagging, which is partly why bio-identical hormones have become so popular. But they’re not the only solution. You can increase your dosage of antioxidants with leafy vegetables and fruit (always preferable to supplements, if possible), and with plenty of the right fatty oils, both topically and taken internally. Avocado, evening primrose, grapeseed, jojoba, castor and black seed are all excellent carrier oils for added vitamins, antioxidants and essential oils.
Q Why do some women who virtuously drink at least twoand-a-half litres of water a day still have dry skin?
A First, unless you’re in the Sahara or an athlete, it’s ridiculous to drink so much water, especially if you’re consuming sufficient vegetables and fruit, which all contain water. It’s based on erroneous science and can overload the kidneys, as well as wash away nutrients. Second, dry skin isn’t always caused by lack of moisture but by lack of fats — both topical and ingestible. It amazes me how many highly educated people think they’re eating a healthy diet, when it’s so low in fats. Eat fats every day for breakfast — avocado, egg, nuts. Stop using stripping agents such as foaming cleansers and glycolic acids and go very easy on those electronic cleaning brushes. Invest in the best facial oils you can afford and top with moisturizer. When people tell me they can’t use oils, I always wonder which ones they’ve tried.
Q I know you disapprove, but are Botox and fillers really the work of the devil?
A It depends whether you can resist the slippery slope and not end up frozen. Obviously Botox is a toxin, but there are bigger risks, especially if you live in a polluted city. The thing to remember is that wrinkles aren’t nearly so aging as tired-looking, dull skin. Before you get any procedure, you should aim for the healthiest complexion possible. Have or give yourself facial massages before the injections — massage is the best way to help muscle retain its integrity. Putting filler into blocked areas with toxins will just make them more blocked. For two weeks after, avoid massage. And don’t go near lip filler. Once you do, it’s game over.
Q How does massaging the face improve it?
A It gets the lymph and circulation flowing, stimulates collagen production, clears toxins ... look in a magnifying mirror under a bright light and stretch out a wrinkle so you can see deep inside the fold. If there’s a silver line similar to a stretch mark, the muscle has already set into scar tissue, but daily massage can still break down a little so it becomes less apparent. If you see tiny pink dots inside the line, there’s still blood supply feeding the skin. Massage daily and, with time, it will inflate and in some cases almost disappear.
Q And banishing that double chin?
A Massage the glands behind the ears daily, using circular movements toward the back of the neck. Use oil or balm to avoid stretching the skin and slide your four flattened fingers from under the chin all the way to the back of the ears. Repeat several times until the whole area feels warm and stimulated.
Q Is there such a thing as a safe tan?
A There’s isn’t a tan that doesn’t cause premature aging. That doesn’t mean we should be terrified of the sun. On a beach or water, I always apply SPF, even though I’m wearing a hat and in shade. A walk early in the morning is hugely beneficial. When the sun’s low, the UVB rays are less powerful, but strong enough to help suppress symptoms of MS, treat SAD and stimulate the body’s production of vitamin D, which protects bones and gut health. How much exposure to sun is required? Half the amount it takes you to burn. A very light skinned person around two to 15 minutes. Remember UVA rays penetrate glass. Stop following other people’s guidelines and learn your own limits. Time how long it takes for you to turn pink. Stop. Next time, undercut that exposure by a couple of minutes.
Q What’s next in skin care?
A Infra-red light. Scientists have known it’s good for us for years; now they’re starting to understand why. It makes the skin more viscous by encouraging water to flow in and out of the cells. Light therapy is the future of skin care but we still have a lot to learn on how to best utilize it in a safe way.
Q Am I destined to age like my parents?
A No. The most exciting developments in skin care are to do with epigenetics. You can inherit the most negative traits, but good lifestyle choices will have the greatest impact on your health. Studies have shown that a child who inherits both its parents’ short genes can still end up taller than either of them with good diet and exercise.