A new Anciano aimed at Apothic enthusiasts

A couple of years ago, the SLGA put a wine on the shelves called Anciano 10, a Tempranillo from I think the Seville area. Tempranillo — especially older, finer Tempranillo — is a real treat, even when it isn’t from Rioja. Local winos jumped on the bottles like starving coyotes who find a gopher. The wine sold out the initial order in about three weeks.

It’s a serious wine, balanced, with integrated tannins (as you’d expect after ten years) and quite a treat to drink for less than $20. But this wasn’t likely to attract younger, lessexperienced drinkers.

A couple of years earlier, Gallo introduced Apothic, which created in a heartbeat a whole new category of red wine. The wine was sweeter than normal, but extremely smooth. Entire containers of the stuff were shifted every week.

I would guess the Anciano brain trust noted the phenomena. They introduced just before Christmas at the SLGA Anciano 7. I had high hopes for this wine, but it really isn’t aimed at me. It’s built for the lovers of Apothic and similar wines.

Stamped across the front label is the statement “Oak Matured.” The very first thing you will notice about the wine is aromas of vanilla and dark cherry. The wine is slightly viscous, and although the residual sugar is quite low (3 g./L), the cloying perfumes provided by the oak give the impression of sweetness.

This is one of those wines that you will either love or hate. A lot of lovers of Californian and Australian wines will think they’ve found an inexpensive glass of heaven. The people fonder of a more reserved, slightly more ascetic profile will be happier with the Anciano 10.

Gran Reserva Anciano 7 2008 Tempranillo. $15 ****

Trendy liquor next week. Other wines on Twitter.com/drbooze.