GOLDEN MOMENT
Winter Games will put spotlight on South Korea’s scenic beauty, rich culture
PYEONGCHANG, SOUTH KOREA From the teeming streets and bright lights of Seoul to the windswept mountains of Jeongseon and the bustling beach cafés of Gangneung, South Korea is ready for its close-up.
Thirty years after hosting the 1988 Summer Games in Seoul, the country is merely weeks away from welcoming the world to the 2018 Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang.
Finishing touches on the Olympic venues are nearly complete, but the constellation of cities and towns hosting the Games is primed to showcase the natural beauty of the landscape, the romance of the culture, millenniums of rich history and, most deliciously, the food.
It is also an opportunity for South Korea to escape the ominous shadow of its infamous northern neighbour. Security is an unavoidable concern when travelling to South Korea these days, but tourism and Olympic officials are quick to reassure visitors it is business as usual.
Within hours of landing for my excursion, my niggling doubts had faded and it was easy to forget I was less than 100 kilometres from one of the world’s most contentious and militarized borders.
If you are planning a trip that happens to coincide with the Olympics (which run Feb. 9-25), I suggest tacking on a few days to explore the host province, Gangwondo, away from the Olympic crowds.
GANGWON-DO IN 72 HOURS Local attractions:
Arirang School Memories Museum, Jeongseon
Nestled along a winding riverbank in a former coal-mining town about 45 minutes outside of Pyeongchang, the museum boasts thousands of artifacts that tell the story of South Korea’s contemporary history from the 19th century onward. There is a special exhibition room dedicated to the region’s coal mining past and the impact shuttering the mines had on the local economy and the area’s rebirth as a resort area.
The name of the museum references Arirang, a Korean folksong that is at once a rallying cry and unofficial national anthem. There are dozens of versions of Arirang but the original, written more than 500 years ago, originated in Jeongseon. The version that is sung here is said to be the most poetic and beautiful version.
When I visited, there was little visitor information in English but the exhibit speaks for itself even without robust translations.
Byeongbanchi skywalk and zip line, Arii Hills, Jeongseon
Ever wonder how it feels to step out over the edge of a cliff, into the abyss and walk on air? The Byeongbanchi skywalk lets you test-drive your inner daredevil.
Anchored into the side of a cliff and suspended 600 metres in the air, the glass skywalk provides magnificent unobstructed views of the Donggang River below, as well as the adjacent mountain range and Bamseom Island, which is said to resemble the Korean Peninsula. If you’re afraid of heights, you might want to skip the skywalk and take in the view from the safety of the lookout instead.
After the skywalk, consider taking the zip line down into the canyon. (Full disclosure: I skipped the zip line, which is clearly meant for people made of stronger stock. Not for the faint of heart.) The zip line is just over one kilometre long and reaches speeds of close to 100 km/h.
Once you’ve survived that ordeal, you’ve earned a coffee and pastry break in the restaurant overlooking the canyon. Spectacular views are worth the trip (and the coffee).
Woljeongsa Temple
A path through the forested valley east of the Odaesan Mountains lead to the Woljeongsa Temple.
The temple has stood since the sixth century and now oversees 60 temples and eight monasteries in the region.
Although several buildings were destroyed during the Korean War, the temple has been restored to its original splendour.
Visitors can wander through the forest to the temple’s main gate, enter the temple grounds and visit dozens of pagodas.
For visitors seeking complete respite, the temple offers a stay program with overnight accommodations. Be sure to visit the tea shop near the main gate to warm up by the cast iron wood stove and sample potent, pungent spring green tea.
Haslla Art World Museum
One of the unexpected delights of the trip came at the Haslla Art World Museum overlooking the East Sea.
The museum features five indoor galleries showcasing the eccentric private collection.
Outside, paths wind through the trees and up the side of a bluff behind the museum, allowing visitors to explore the terrain, with the sound of the waves crashing below, and immerse themselves in the museum’s sculpture garden. But it’s the sweeping sea views that really steal the show.
Anmok Beach, Gangneung Take a short drive out of Gangneung’s downtown core and you will find the beautiful sandy beaches of Anmok lined with stands of pine trees buffering nearby streets and restaurants from the wind.
In the summer, the beach is packed with people looking for relief from the heat. But during the fall (when I visited) and winter, the beach attracts kite flyers of all varieties — from kids and their parents flying small kites (the ones I am most apt to get off the ground) to serious hobbyists who send enormous kite chains soaring hundreds of metres into the air.
Nearby vendors sell kites at reasonable prices.
Across the boardwalk is a street lined with beachfront cafés and patios. Coffee has become a national obsession here and nowhere is this more obvious than in Anmok, which now hosts an annual coffee festival. Try a rich and delicious tiny walnut cake or warm coffee bean cake while you are here.
From here you can walk the boardwalk for several kilometres and take in the views of the stunning crystal water at Gyeongpo Beach.
SLEEPOVERS
Hanwha Resort This three-star hotel offers a range of accommodations from standard hotel rooms to condo suites equipped with kitchens and balconies that offer sweeping views of the mountains. Wellsuited to travellers who are hitting the nearby slopes. The resort also features amenities for children including a waterslide, basketball court and playground. The resort offers a variety of dining options and includes a continental breakfast. There is a convenience store on site.
Haslla Museum Hotel Located above the Haslla Art World Museum, this four-star hotel allows guests to watch the sunrise and moonrise over the East Sea from its perch on a cliff overlooking the beach. Just a few kilometres outside of downtown Gangneung, the hotel feels a long distance away from anything.
Gangneung Tourist Hotel This boutique hotel in downtown Gangneung is steps away from upscale shopping and great food. Stroll down the street to the local market, where you can find fruit and vegetable vendors, as well as fresh meat and fish of every variety.
PLAN YOUR OWN OLYMPIC MOMENTS
Test your winter sports skills (safely!) by living your own Olympic moments. After the Games, visitors will have a chance to ski the same slopes and take a lap around the same rinks as medallists.
Alpensia Ski Jump Centre Before the Games even start, the towering ski jump centre has already become somewhat of a defining symbol for the Games to come.
Originally planned as the venue for the opening and closing ceremonies, the stadium will now host the ski jump and Nordic combined events.
The stadium is also home to the Gangwon FC soccer team, its home pitch doubling as the ski jump landing area.
Bokwang Snow Park
Located in the Phoenix ski resort, the Bokwang Snow Park will host freestyle skiing and snowboarding events during the Winter Games. A golf course, ski slopes catering to those of all skill levels, restaurants and shopping are nearby.
Gangneung Olympic Park In the so-called coastal cluster of Olympic venues, the Gangneung Olympic Park is home to four Olympic venues: the hockey centre, curling centre, speedskating oval and short-track speedskating and figure skating rink.
A short drive from downtown Gangneung and the beaches, visitors should expect a significantly warmer stay than in the mountain venues. When I visited it was -10 C in the mountains, about 8 C in the coastal cluster.
NEED TO KNOW Travel tip
If you don’t speak Korean, language can be an obstacle. While most Koreans learn English in school, most — especially those who live outside large cities — don’t have a chance to use it very often. While touring, I got by on a few lines of Korean learned before leaving — an effort that was appreciated everywhere I went — and apps that have all but eliminated language barriers. Apps I found useful include Papago, WayGo and Google Translate. All are available on iTunes and Google Play.
Getting around
The national railway, Korail, has six routes criss-crossing the country. Trips take a few hours at most. In 2004, the KTX high-speed rail system opened, shortening travel time between major cities. The KTX network has been extended to the Olympic host region and is slated to open in time for the Games. The new line will link the international airport in Incheon with Seoul and the host cities, cutting travel time from about three hours to 90 minutes. Tickets for both Korail and the KTX should be reserved online ahead of time.
Tourist information
The Korea Tourism Organization has extensive information for travellers. See english.visitkorea.or.kr or call 1-800-868-7567.