Regina Leader-Post

Here’s a cork dork special for you

- By James Romanow

I noticed an odd white on the shelves of the Italian section about a year ago.

The name sounded a bit cute, like a play on words about a couple of people. Otherwise the label was ridiculous­ly plain with no informatio­n to speak of. Speaking to the vintner a couple of weeks ago in Edmonton, I decided this was a wine that needed to be brought to the attention of all right thinking people.

Pino & Toi (pr. Pee-noh and Tay) is a blend of Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and primarily (60%) Toi. Okay, that didn’t ring any bells. Neither did it show up in my trusty copy of “Wine Grapes.” Further ferreting about revealed that it goes by several names including Tai, Tocai, Sauvignon Vert, and — in Wine Grapes — Sauvignona­sse. Eureka! A cork dork special!

“So while you plebes were drinking your usual Sauvignon Blanc, I was getting down with a Sauvignona­sse!” At which point you get to retire from the conversati­on victorious, as the silverback dork in the crowd, yet again.

It’s a medium yellow wine, a bit lighter in texture than a Chardonnay. The bouquet is surprising­ly intense, with some citrus flowers, citrus and a whiff of slate and apples. The palate is more balanced than I expected, certainly crisp enough, but without that angular attack of a Sauvignon Blanc, but fuller bodied. There are some nice flavours of pear, with a solid, crisp finish. If ever there was a wine for chicken dishes, or maybe just pasta with some grated cheese on top, this is it.

If you are bored with Bordeaux and jaded by Johannesbu­rg, then try something completely different. This is the perfect chicken breast and tossed salad wine. Pino & Toi $22 **** A tremendous Ripasso next week. Other wines on Twitter.com/drbooze.

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