Regina Leader-Post

The perfect white wine for a warm afternoon

- By James Romanow

A very long time ago, on a rainy day in Lisbon, Sairey and I took a cab to the Gulbenkian and then walked back to our hotel through Lisbon.

Needless to say, we required sustenance en route. We stopped at a small sidewalk café where the only language was Portuguese. However, I have an unusual talent and can order wine anywhere in the world in any language. I asked for a vinho verde, the very light, bright, refreshing white wine that serves as adult lemonade throughout Portugal.

To my surprise, the only bottle on offer was a label we had not encountere­d despite three weeks of serious exploratio­n of vinho verde. The café was not particular­ly prepossess­ing and the small tapas we ordered to see us back to the hotel not memorable, but I never forgot that wine.

Casal Garcia has appeared here on the shelves, rather to my astonishme­nt. Sentiment alone required I pick up a bottle. Things must have changed in the last decade, because the label now proudly acclaims that it is the “No. 1 most sold Vinho Verde in the world.”

If you’ve never had a glass of Vinho Verde, I recommend you buy some. It is very inexpensiv­e, low alcohol and slightly effervesce­nt (frizzante to Italians, petillant to the French.) The tart, bright flavour is tremendous­ly refreshing, and a perfect afternoon drink on the deck. Best of all, the lower alcohol content is well suited to slow afternoon consumptio­n.

Casal Garcia’s version is a perfect example of the type. Tart and refreshing, it is an excellent wine with a salad or shrimp. The palate is slightly lemony, with a complex bouquet. This is a wine to try.

Casal Garcia Vinho Verde NV $12 ****

Italian Red next week. Other wines on Twitter.com/drbooze.

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