Replace or repair rusty 1950s bathroom sink?
Kitschy mid-century appeal may not be enough to avoid pulling the plug
A how-to guru advises a reader on trying to maintain the mid-century appeal of a sink after it rusts.
I am slowly refurbishing a modest, mid-1950s split-level. I want to keep as many of the original elements as possible. My latest project (and problem) is the bathroom sink, which is heavily rusted. If possible, I would like to keep the kitschy surround, but something has to be done about the basin. Replace? Repair?
Although it’s tempting to focus on esthetics and historical accuracy, function and durability matter, too.
Among the pictures you sent, one shows significant rust under the sink. If you are certain that nothing is leaking, you might be able to ignore that and just work on making the top look better, using a rust remover.
But if there’s a leak, your only hope of saving the sink is to pinpoint the problem. There are ways to figure that out.
Before you touch the plumbing, however, there is a big caveat. The shut-off valves under your sink look corroded, too, so they could begin leaking if you try to turn them off. Also, know how to turn off the main water supply to your house, and identify an outside faucet or a sink lower in your house where you could open a faucet to relieve water pressure in the bathroom if necessary.
Another option is to call a plumber — one with insurance in case water starts spraying everywhere — to take apart the sink and help you assess whether it can be saved. Get new supply lines and shut-off valves to avoid having to call the plumber again.
But if you want to tackle this yourself, here is how to test for leaks. Disassemble the P-trap and then temporarily cap the bottom of the tailpiece with a rubberized clean-out cap, often called a jim cap. Fernco (fercno. ca) sells a 1½-inch PVC DWV Flexible Cap. If your drainpipe is 1¼ inches in outside diameter, you’ll also need an adapter, such as the Fernco 11/2-by-11/4-inch DWV Flexible PVC Coupling. With the drainpipe capped, fill the basin and trace the leak.
If the leak is in a replaceable part, you can probably save the sink. But heavily rusted parts are hard to fix, especially when you are working in a cramped space. Try to lift off the countertop with the sink in place. To remove the countertop and sink as one unit, close the shut-off valves for hot and cold water and disconnect the supply lines. Remove any screws or nails holding the countertop to the wall. With a utility knife, slice through any caulk between the countertop and the wall. With luck, this will free the countertop and sink.
If you need to replace the sink, decide how much you are willing to pay to keep period details.