Regina Leader-Post

IT’S COMING FROM OUTSIDE THE HOUSE

Musty smell? The problem could be found under the property

- JEANNE HUBER

Q We are trying to figure out the next step in dealing with a musty odour in our 1928 brick row house. It was originally built as a corner store and does not have a full cellar. The odour is most distinct in the living room. When we purchased the house, the inspector thought the smell was from the wet earth under the living room, drawn in by the dehumidifi­er. We moved the dehumidifi­er to the cellar and began using it only when it rains extensivel­y, but that did not reduce the smell. We’ve also tried airing out the house, scrubbing surfaces and using odour-eliminator products. Nothing has worked.

Friends have suggested installing a vapour barrier under the hardwood flooring in the living room, but that would be expensive and difficult because the crawl space underneath is not really accessible. Would ceramic tile or cork tiles provide a vapour barrier?

A The solution is probably to “encapsulat­e” the crawl space — a treatment that includes sealing the dirt floor and outside edges of the space and then providing a way to keep the air temperatur­e and humidity level there similar to what is in your living space. There is no way to eliminate the mildew problem by installing different flooring because the problems are rooted in what is going on within the crawl space.

Builders used to think that the way to avoid musty smells in and over a crawl space was to provide plenty of ventilatio­n under the house. To keep a house warm, they insulated the floor from underneath, often with a vapour barrier intended to block moisture in the crawl space from getting into the house.

The thinking has almost completely changed. Having exterior vents in a crawl space actually allows warm, humid air to flow in during the summer. When air in the living space is cooled by air conditioni­ng, that moisture condenses on the underside of the cold flooring, and mildew grows, especially when there is a moisture barrier to keep the condensati­on from evaporatin­g. In the winter, the opposite happens, with the same effect.

The solution is to eliminate the conditions that allow condensati­on.

Access into crawl spaces often is pretty tight, but don’t assume there is no way to retrofit your crawl space. The picture you sent shows what is probably just a foundation vent, and there is probably an actual access door somewhere else, said Chris Mclaughlin, a sales manager at JES ( jeswork.com), a company based in Virginia Beach that does crawl space encapsulat­ion. “Sometimes there is a door in a closet and someone has put carpet over it, so you don’t even know,” he said. If there really is no opening, his company can cut one in, either on the outside (with a steel lintel to support the bricks over the opening, in a case such as yours), or in an out-ofthe-way place such as a closet, which would then be outfitted with a trap door. Call at least two companies that specialize in crawl-space encapsulat­ion and ask for an on-site evaluation and recommenda­tion, with an estimate of costs.

Mohammed El- Ghoul, owner of Home Energy Saving Solutions in Rockville, Md., said encapsulat­ing a crawl space almost always eliminates musty smells. The exception, he said, is when there is “bulk water” flowing into the space. So the first step in fixing your problem is to make sure there is no obvious source of water, for example from gutters that dump next to the foundation or sprinklers that splash against the walls.

Then a company will send a crew to clean up any debris in the crawl space. This includes removing any insulation with a moisture barrier installed on the underside of the flooring. Insulation without a moisture barrier can be left in place as long as it is isn’t mouldy or falling down in

Access into crawl spaces often is pretty tight, but don’t assume there is no way to retrofit your crawl space.

places.

Once the space is clean, the crew spreads a moisture barrier, such as thick six-millimetre plastic, across the dirt floor. They also install a moisture barrier up the walls and seal all seams. Fresh insulation goes against the walls, over the moisture barrier. The final steps involve closing off outside vents and adding a vent or a register for the heating and air-conditioni­ng system. This makes the crawl space, in effect, part of the heated and air-conditione­d space of your house. Sometimes, El- Ghoul said, a dehumidifi­er in the crawl space substitute­s for a heating and air-conditioni­ng register.

This work isn’t cheap, but in addition to solving the odour issue, it should reduce drafts.

Retrofitti­ng a row house is usually similar to working on a detached house, El- Ghoul said, because the crew treats the neighbour’s crawl space as if it is an exterior wall. But rarely, row houses have shared crawl spaces. That presents additional issues — and cost.

 ?? GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOT­O ?? Row houses do not typically present significan­t problems when it comes to retrofitti­ng a crawl space — unless, they happen to be shared.
GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOT­O Row houses do not typically present significan­t problems when it comes to retrofitti­ng a crawl space — unless, they happen to be shared.

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