EMBRACING THE FAUX
Pressed by savvy consumers, animal-free materials are improving in texture and quality
Vegan leather and faux fur have been gaining momentum in the fashion world. And for good reason.
In recent years, the technology behind the materials has improved dramatically, allowing the faux versions of these animal-inspired offerings to look and feel more like the real thing than ever before.
“They have enhanced the texture and where they source their materials to make it feel real,” says Caroline Maguire, the fashion director for online retailer Shopbop.
“And I think that’s the beauty of it.”
According to Maguire, the fauxfur trend really took off last fall, with the textiles and materials being offered in a variety of styles by various designers, at pretty much every price.
“We called that out last fall as the idea of getting that luxurious look at an amazing trend price point,” Maguire explains of the faux-fashion movement, pointing toward such brands as Nanushka, Tibi and Apparis as a few of her personal favourites.
“It wasn’t just one person doing it, it was across the board. Which is, I think, such an important message for our customers.”
It is, perhaps, this is-it-real-orisn’t-it element of the faux fashions — coupled with a growing interest in sustainable and vegan fashions — that is prompting more designers and retailers to look at faux fur and leather for their seasonal styles this fall-winter season, too.
“Globally, people are becoming more aware of the impacts their everyday choices can have on the environment. We’ve seen that small, thoughtful decisions and initiatives can have big impacts and the move toward animal-free fashion around the world is one example of this,” says Alyssa Whited, the global director of marketing for the Canadian company Call It Spring.
The Quebec-based retailer announced its transition to offering 100 per cent vegan products completed as of spring 2019, in response to both consumer demands and internal initiatives to create only animal-byproduct-free accessories.
The process, Whited admits, wasn’t without its challenges.
“Even though our products were primarily animal-free for some time, removing all animal materials and derivatives across the board, at a global scale, took a lot of time, thought and investment across Call It Spring’s entire operation,” she explains.
“The first step was to conduct a thorough assessment of materials and formulations in all of our products, everything from fabrics to insoles, finishes to adhesives.
“We identified what needed to be replaced, developed a vegan policy that outlined what was no longer permitted in products, and then received PETA approval for reaching the highest global standards of animal-friendly production.”
The efforts appear to have been worth it, as the feedback to the company’s cruelty-free initiative has been overwhelmingly positive, Whited says.
“The fact that we’re providing an option for people to be more conscious about the purchases they make, without sacrificing on style or affordability, was really appreciated,” she says. “The positive feedback speaks volumes to how well informed and consciously minded consumers are today — these types of shifts by brands, to go vegan or increase their sustainability offering, are becoming an expectation.”
“The customer is definitely asking for it,” Maguire agrees.
But the process of creating faux fur and leather has been hotly discussed as it’s said there is still a way to go before these materials be considered entirely “green.”
Most fur-like products are created using a process that turns synthetic polymers (such as acrylic and modacrylics), that are “processed, dyed, and cut to match a specific fur texture and colour,” according to Madehow.com. The issue then, being how do these materials break down over time? Or how can they be sustainably recycled or disposed of? Synthetic leathers such as polyurethane or polyvinyl chloride, while less resource and chemical reliant than the process of real animal skins, have also been scrutinized for their overall sustainability.
It’s a point that Whited says is top of mind for many companies as they look to improve upon their non-animal offerings.
“Innovation and sourcing of materials are continually advancing, meaning more sustainable alternatives to traditional materials are available that hold up in terms of quality, durability, and style,” Whited says. “This opens up opportunities for more brands to find more sustainable materials that would have been too much of a challenge in the past.
“Our vegan alternative is a high-quality polyurethane (PU), which is more durable and breathable than PVC and far less toxic to produce. That said, PU is still far from perfect, and we’re working hard to move to a water-based version, which is better for the environment.”
The proliferation of vegan leather and faux-fur fashion in a seasonal market that was once full of primarily wool, leather and fur offerings, is proof that, when it comes to fashion, consumer demands and sustainability interests are being considered.
And, according to Whited, shoppers can expect to see that influence prompt brands to even further initiate change in the future.
“I love how today’s consumer is shaping the fashion landscape for the better,” she says. “They are pushing the fashion industry to think outside of the box and break boundaries in order to offer customers conscious choices at a mainstream level. The journey toward sustainability is an ongoing one.”
They are pushing the fashion industry to think outside of the box.