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If the shoe fits ...

Collaborat­ion between Winterbott­om, Coogan skewers British fashion mogul

- HENRY MANCE

“You can interrupt when you want,” says Steve Coogan, near the beginning of our interview. It feels like a courtesy. Quickly, I realize that it’s essential advice. Because Coogan wants to set the agenda.

His latest film, directed by longtime collaborat­or Michael Winterbott­om, mocks the downfall of British retail mogul Philip Green. What could have been simply light entertainm­ent is in fact equal parts ideologica­l statement.

“We owe a bit of debt to Philip Green,” Coogan starts off, surprising­ly. “He’s unambiguou­s about what he is and what he does ... He’s shone a light on the whole system.” That system involves tax havens, financial engineerin­g, poorly paid Sri Lankan seamstress­es, and “the rather nefarious way” that big companies use celebritie­s to “window-dress” it all.

“When you go into the shop and see Kate Moss on the wall, you associate your cheap T-shirt with Kate Moss and you forget the women actually making it,” says Winterbott­om. Workers’ wages, adds Coogan, “could easily double and everyone would still make lots and lots of money.” It’s odd hearing the face of Alan Partridge take on global capitalism, but you get used to it.

Greed is a film about inequality whose own budget almost proves its point. At C$8.6 million, the entire production, which portrays a retail mogul’s 60th birthday party on Mykonos, cost less than Green’s actual 60th celebratio­ns in Mexico (C$11 million). Green paid for performanc­es from Robbie Williams and Stevie Wonder; the filmmakers had to settle for James Blunt and Stephen Fry. “They probably did it for expenses plus a sandwich,” says Coogan. “And what I love is that they’re playing themselves as if they’re prostituti­ng themselves.”

Winterbott­om had wanted the closing shots to shame individual­s — from Amancio Ortega, founder of Zara, to celebritie­s such as Leonardo Dicaprio and Gwyneth Paltrow, who attended Green’s party. Sony, which part-financed Greed, vetoed that. “This unwritten rule exists among entertaine­rs the same way it exists among CEOS — we don’t diss each other,” laments Coogan.

Filmed in under 12 weeks, the movie nominally features a fictional Sir Richard Mccreadie, but the backstory and business practices — including crushing Sri Lankan suppliers and inflating the value of his brands by mortgaging property — are all Green’s. “Our lawyers were like, you’ve got to make it accurate, then it’s not libellous,” says Winterbott­om.

The devil is in the retail, as the tagline puts it. This is a missed opportunit­y to play on the things that Coogan and Green have in common, not least a learned dislike of the paparazzi. Coogan insists he did find “redeeming features” in the mogul. “One, he’s quite funny ... and there’s a certain brutal honesty.”

Winterbott­om, meanwhile, warmed to the retailer’s micromanag­ement. “The very fact that he didn’t have a team of PR people — that he was on the phone calling journalist­s up direct himself — there’s something quite attractive about that. Quite useful in a film anyway.”

Showbiz moralizing is not without its critics: at this year’s Golden Globes, Ricky Gervais told Hollywood’s finest that they were in “no position to lecture the public about anything.” On the one hand, Coogan is criticizin­g that same hypocrisy. On the other hand, he’s just another lecturing actor.

“Yes, I get it, but to me, you do something or you do nothing,” says Coogan, referring to Gervais’s critique. He campaigned for a second Brexit referendum and joined Extinction Rebellion protests, despite being a car enthusiast.

Coogan’s upcoming projects include a #Metoo drama for British

TV. I point out that one of the champions of British cinema was the now-disgraced Harvey Weinstein. “I’m very pleased I sent him an email challengin­g him on his attitude toward women five years ago,” Coogan replies, chirpily. “He said, ‘They know I’m only kidding.’ He wasn’t being predatory — he was just being bullying and using misogynist­ic language.”

This time it’s Winterbott­om who is more forthright. “People who came out later and said, ‘I never knew he was like that’ — I think that’s incredibly disingenuo­us. Everyone knew what Harvey was like, he was always overtly a bully.”

It’s one thing to know something is happening, another to talk openly about how to stop it. But Coogan’s case is that working in show business gives you an impulse to speak out, not a duty to shut up. The Financial Times Limited

(2020). All rights reserved. FT and Financial Times are trademarks of the Financial Times Limited. Not to be redistribu­ted, copied or modified in any way.

 ?? TIM FRASER ?? Greed director Michael Winterbott­om says everyone in Hollywood knew that film mogul Harvey Weinstein was “overtly a bully.”
TIM FRASER Greed director Michael Winterbott­om says everyone in Hollywood knew that film mogul Harvey Weinstein was “overtly a bully.”

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