Regina Leader-Post

GARDENING

Winter has already dragged on far too long, so take advantage of these tips to prepare for the gardening season ahead

- ERL SVENDSEN

Now is the perfect time to start getting ready for the year ahead — it’s what I consider the twilight time between winter and spring that can last as little as a week or two, or more than a month. This winter has already dragged on far too long (I think that every year), so who knows how long we have before we’re in the full swing of things? Here are a few activities to keep you occupied while you’re champing at the bit to do some real gardening: Equipment maintenanc­e: Get your lawn mower and rototiller tuned up now to avoid the rush. While you’re at it, have the mower blades sharpened. Sharp blades do less lawn damage, promoting healthy, lush growth. Tools: Sharpen and clean your hand tools. Use an axe file to put a new edge on your shovels and hoes. For tools like pruners that require a finer edge, use a sharpening stone. Lawn care: Drain any standing water. Standing water that remains longer than a week or two is a problem not only for lawns but also trees and perennials. If you can, direct the water away from your yard with a ditch or pump it out to the street. Wait until early June (after the grass has started to grow) to de-thatch or aerate. Tree and shrub care: Remove dead, damaged, rubbing or diseased wood. In the case of overgrown shrubs, remove up to one third of the oldest branches (thickest stems with darkest brown bark) at their base to rejuvenate. If you’ve had trouble in the past with aphids, leaf rollers, mites, or scale insects, consider applying a horticultu­ral or dormant oil spray to trees and shrubs before they leaf out. Horticultu­ral oil is a fairly benign product that works by literally suffocatin­g the eggs or overwinter­ing insect stage rather than killing the adult insects with a toxic substance. Perennial care: Once your beds are somewhat dry, cut back perennials and remove dead and decaying leaves. You can put this organic material in the compost, provided they weren’t diseased last year (e.g. don’t compost rust-infested hollyhock stems). Do this before new growth appears; ornamental grasses and chives are especially early to start growing. Mulch: Apply fresh compost or other organic mulch to preserve soil moisture and moderate soil temperatur­es around perennials, trees, shrubs and bush fruit during the growing season. Seeds: Order or purchase seeds for the upcoming season. Most vegetables can be started now (tomatoes, squash). Vegetable garden: As soon as the soil is dry enough, rototill your garden to loosen and warm up the soil. This will also bring overwinter­ing pests and weed seeds to the surface to dry out or get picked off by our feathered friends. But remember: if you rototill when it is too wet, you will end up with compacted soil — and a muddy mess. Add organic matter such as well-rotted compost or manure. The common wisdom of waiting until the May long weekend to seed or transplant seedlings applies to tender or chilling-sensitive plants such as beans, corn, cucumbers, peppers, potatoes, squash, tomatoes and the like. What you can plant now are beets, carrots, lettuce, peas, radishes and spinach for an early harvest. This should keep you busy, at home and off the streets for the next few weeks. Happy Spring!

Erl gardens in Saskatoon and tweets about it on occasion @Erlsv.

This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchew­an Perennial Society (SPS; saskperenn­ial@hotmail.com). Check our website (saskperenn­ial. ca) or Facebook page ( facebook. com/saskperenn­ial). All Saskatchew­an Perennial Society events are on hold until further notice.

 ?? JOE HOOVER ?? Top up the mulch layer to between 7 and 10 cm deep where it has become sparse with some post peelings, bark, coarse peat, compost or other organic options.
JOE HOOVER Top up the mulch layer to between 7 and 10 cm deep where it has become sparse with some post peelings, bark, coarse peat, compost or other organic options.

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