Three steps for protecting your wood
I’ve heard a lot of talk about outdoor wood structures and maintenance. Some people might tell you that if you go with something expensive, like cedar, that you don’t need to stain it — it weathers to a natural greylooking colour. But I know I wouldn’t want my wood going grey, especially not after spending so much money on it. Before it does, make sure you protect it right.
I’ve spoken to a lot of pros over the years and they all agree on one thing: If you have wooden structures on your property, whether it’s a deck, shed or fence, they require maintenance, no exception.
All wood, except manufactured products like composite wood, need to be sanded and stained — even pressure-treated lumber. If you want it to last, you have to put in the time and some elbow grease.
Here’s how the pros handle their wood:
1. Start with a pressure washer.
If you’re working on a softer wood, like pine, spruce or cedar, you need to be careful with the pressure washer setting (you want a wide fan) and how close you hold the wand to the wood surface, because a pressure washer can damage a softer wood. Test it out first on a spot that’s hidden. If you see that the wood fibres are starting to lift, back off.
If the wood surface has a lot of old product on it, you might need to use a stain or paint remover. Follow the instructions and use protective gear if you go this route, but try to avoid using harsh chemicals if you can. This is also a good time to use an anti-mildew treatment. Go with one that’s biodegradable. After it’s been washed, let the wood dry for at least a
couple of days.
2. The next step is sanding, but make sure there is no chance of rain.
If the wood gets wet after it’s been sanded, but not before it’s been stained or painted, it’s back to square one — you’ll need to wash and sand it again.
Some homeowners will want to rent those big floor sanders to sand a large wooden surface, like a deck floor. Don’t do it. These machines are heavy and they won’t be able to reach the entire surface of most wooden planks. Floor sanders can only sand surfaces that are perfectly flat, and deck boards are slightly curved. That means it will take off too much in some sections and not enough in others.
Unfortunately, the only way to do it right is by hand with a belt sander, palm sander and sanding sponge — not to mention the proper safety gear too, such as safety eyewear and respirators. If you can’t do it yourself safely, hire the pros.
Pros start with a belt sander using a heavier grit belt (something like 50) working backwards on the boards. Then they’ll use a palm sander for the areas the belt sander couldn’t reach; followed by a sanding sponge wrapped in sandpaper for the areas the palm sander couldn’t reach. Then they’ll repeat that process using a lighter grit (60/80). This leaves a nice, smooth surface that will take the stain consistently.
3. Finally, it’s staining time. The general rule is the thicker the stain, the better the protection.
Clear coats provide no protection; so don’t waste your money. Translucent or semitransparent stains are also very thin; you will need to reapply every year. For smaller structures, like an arbour or pergola that might not be a big deal, but for larger surfaces, like a wooden deck, you want to go for something thicker and that lasts longer.
For maximum protection, use a solid stain or paint, at least on the surfaces that get the most wear and tear. Then you can have a more natural-looking stain on the other areas. And always use a proper stain brush!
How often do you need to do this? It depends. I’d say at least once every two years, but Mother Nature has her own agenda. If the next time it rains, water beads and pools on the wood, that means it still has some protection. If it doesn’t, it’s time for some maintenance.