Saskatoon StarPhoenix

CLIMBING ‘EL CAPITAN’ WITHOUT ROPES

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LOOK MA: NO ROPES American Alex Honnold became the first to climb alone to the top of the massive granite wall known as El Capitan in Yosemite National Park without using ropes or safety gear. The elite rock climber completed the climb Saturday in just under four hours, according to National Geographic, which documented the historic ascent.

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WHY HE DID IT Honnold, 31, who grew up in Sacramento and now lives in Las Vegas, said he’s been dreaming about the feat for at least eight years. “Each year I’d come (to Yosemite) and look up at the wall,” Honnold told the San Francisco Chronicle in a telephone interview. “And I’d think, ‘Oh my God, how can I do it?’ ” He said he started rehearsing the route, climbing it with partners and a rope. Observers said his climb has pushed the limits in a sport that requires a high level of athleticis­m, risk-taking and mental focus. “This has never been done before ... and it’s hard to imagine anybody ever coming close to what he’s done,” said Daniel Duane, author of El Capitan: Historic Feats and Radical Routes.

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ICONIC ROCK The climb up 3,000-foot (914-metre) El Capitan used to take days to complete with the aid of ropes, safety gear and a partner. In the past few decades, speed climbers working in tandem and using ropes have set records in reaching the top of the steep cliff. In January 2015, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson became the first to “free climb” the Dawn Wall — a particular­ly steep route to the top of El Capitan — by grabbing just the rock and using ropes only to catch them if they fell. They did it in 19 days.

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GRACE UNDER PRESSURE “To climb without ropes where the slightest slip is literally fatal in that arena requires enormous self-control and focus,” Duane said. “It requires this intense cognitive effort to keep fear at bay and focus on the task in front of you.” He said Honnold has a rare ability to control fear and his body for a long period of time. “He’s shown awesome grace under pressure,” said Hans Florine, a fellow climber who with Honnold holds the speed record for climbing the Nose route of El Capitan in about two hours and 23 minutes.

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