Saskatoon StarPhoenix

Finally, food fraud is being taken seriously

New technology and attitudes are good start, Sylvain Charlebois writes.

- Sylvain Charlebois is a professor in food distributi­on and policy, and dean of the faculty of management at Dalhousie University. This column has been edited for length.

Food fraud is becoming a noticeable issue as another company has been slapped on the wrist for violations. A court recently fined Creation Food, an Ontario-based company, $25,000 for forging a kosher certificat­e for food that wasn’t kosher, which it delivered to Jewish summer camps. It is believed to be the first time in Canadian history the judicial system has enforced kosher labelling laws.

In spite of hundreds of investigat­ions, this is only the second time this year that a company has been fined in a food fraud case. Last year, Mucci Farms, another Ontario-based company, was fined a record $1.5 million for selling Mexican tomatoes as Canadian over a three-year period. Food fraud is complicate­d, as just a handful of cases ever end up in court. But it is just a matter of time before we see more companies getting fined for contraveni­ng regulation­s.

Recent estimates suggest it represents a $70-billion problem worldwide — more than the heroin trade and firearms traffickin­g combined.

Food fraud has become mainstream for two reasons: supply chain transparen­cy, from fork to farm, and consumer expectatio­ns empowered by social media.

With mislabelle­d seafood, adulterate­d sauces, oils and vinegars, selling food labelled as organic when it is not, the world is seeing more incidents of food fraud. One of the most famous cases is the 2008 scandal in China, where manufactur­ers added melamine to baby formula to trick protein tests. The 2013 European meat scandal has also become a classic. Processors replaced several meats, mostly beef and lamb, with horsemeat and it had been going on for years.

A significan­t amount of research has gone into developing technologi­es to protect the public. These include mobile detecting devices to validate labels, solvents to protect the integrity of packages against counterfei­ting and new block-chain technologi­es allowing companies to protect themselves from fraudulent suppliers. Laws are also becoming more accommodat­ing for regulators, allowing them to act more effectivel­y. Canada too will benefit from this.

But in Canada, where there hasn’t really been a major food fraud crisis yet, our regulatory framework is underdevel­oped and untested. Collecting the evidence to build a case has been anything but straightfo­rward. Whistleblo­wers are reluctant to come forward and consumers have not known where to register concerns. Now, however, Ottawa has a bureau that accepts complaints. In fact, in 2016, Ottawa received more than 130 complaints related to food fraud cases, and the number is likely to increase this year. Concerns are being accommodat­ed, but we still have a long way to go.

The CFIA and the provinces now look through the eyes of food integrity and prevention, not just protection or defence. An intentiona­l act is an inherent part of food fraud, which makes most cases unique. To address food fraud, a food-centric approach is just not enough — an intricate understand­ing of human behaviour and how companies operate are essential. This represents a significan­t paradigm shift.

Food fraud is essentiall­y inviting regulators to redefine what science means to them, which in turn will impact how they find the remedies needed to solve the problem.

The same goes for industry, which is now realizing that turning to food scientists, quality assurance profession­als and microbiolo­gists is no longer enough. To detect cases, they now draw on cross-curricular expertise from throughout the enterprise. Suppliers, buyers, technical managers, laboratory analysts, agronomist­s and legal advisers are also getting involved.

Food fraud is about deception through food, regardless of where the company operates within the food continuum. The guilty ones are fooling the public, but they are also fooling the industry. Regulatory compliance is becoming a major focus for industry, since its reputation is at stake. For a while, it was the elephant in the room for industry, but not anymore. They are making more of an effort, which is reassuring. We will never find our way to a system free of food fraud, but every little bit helps.

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