Saskatoon StarPhoenix

Discover the top spots for Germany’s ‘Lutherland’ pilgrimage

- RICK STEVES

Martin Luther, a pious monk and fiery orator who became the “Great Reformer,” came from a humble, pastoral corner of Germany’s heartland. It’s a land of half-timbered villages, rolling hills and fanciful castles, and where Luther’s bold attempts to reform the Catholic Church launched the Protestant Reformatio­n. October 2017 marked the 500th anniversar­y of this event, which, along with the Renaissanc­e and as part of the rise of humanism, contribute­d greatly to the birth of our modern world.

On Oct. 31, 1517, Luther challenged Roman Catholic doctrine by posting his 95 Theses (discussion topics) on a church door. This started a chain of events that would split the Christian faith, plunge Europe into a century of warfare, cause empires to rise and fall and inspire new schools of art and thought. In eastern Germany, near Leipzig, three “Lutherland” destinatio­ns — Erfurt, Wartburg Castle and Wittenberg — are the top spots for a Luther pilgrimage, newly spruced up with loving attention.

I’m a Lutheran, so for me, coming to Lutherland is a bit like a Catholic going to Rome. But anyone who appreciate­s history will find the sights here interestin­g.

Start in Erfurt, a charming many-steepled medieval town. Young Luther enrolled at the university here, and, after a lighting storm epiphany in 1505, became a monk. Today, visitors can tour the Augustinia­n monastery and church, including the austere cell where Luther spent his formative years, and the church where he struggled with theologica­l demons.

Just west of Erfurt is another important Luther landmark: Wartburg Castle, perched over the town of Eisenach. When Luther spoke out against church corruption, he made enemies of the pope and emperor. Luther was declared a heretic and could be captured and killed by anyone. While travelling nearby in 1521, he was “kidnapped” and dropped out of sight.

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