FLAVOURS OF 2018
Shake it up with shakshuka
A bright, shiny new year means new trends in the world of food for 2018.
Look for floral flavours popping up in food and drinks, as well as super powders like maca, matcha and cacao gaining popularity. Puffed and popped snacks are apparently going to be hot, as is root-to-stem cookery. The former has me excited as it means my fondness for hot, buttered popcorn is on trend, and the latter makes me happy as it draws more attention to food waste in kitchens.
Other trends of note include tacos and flavoured sparkling water. Yes, yes, yes to both. But the trend I’m most giddy about is the flavours of the Middle East taking centre stage. Culinary influences from countries such as Lebanon, Israel, Turkey, Iran, Morocco and Syria have made their way west for years, and 2018 will bring these tasty traditions into the mainstream. Flavours of harissa, ras el hanout, tahini, cardamom, pomegranate and za’atar are hitting more menus, as well as dishes like shakshuka, grilled halloumi and lamb. Regional nuances will become more pronounced, too.
People always give me funny looks when I tell them I had shakshuka for breakfast. I then get to tell them about one of my favourite ways to cook eggs. This versatile North African dish of baked eggs is saucy, spicy and warms hearts and souls on cold, winter days. Plus, it makes great use of that tube of harissa I have in my fridge.
I’ve recently fallen in love with harissa paste, and I swear I make shakshuka just so I can use it. Harissa is a spicy, aromatic chile paste that’s a widely used staple in North African and Middle Eastern cooking. Harissa recipes vary between countries and regions, but a standard version includes a blend of hot chili peppers (which are often smoked), garlic, olive oil and spices, like cumin, coriander, caraway and mint. Tomatoes and rose petals are also common ingredients.
Even if your heat tolerance is quite high, harissa packs quite a punch. I used 1 tbsp of the paste for a mild hit of heat. Add another tablespoon if you want more kick. Use harissa to enhance soups, stews, appetizers and side dishes. Use it as a marinade for meat and fish. Blend it into hummus or any of your favourite dips. Use it as a spread to liven up your sandwiches and pizza. I love adding a spoonful to a bowl of olive oil — it’s bread-dipping magic. If you’re ambitious, you can make your own harissa in a food processor, or look for it in Middle Eastern grocery stores (such as Petra in Lawson Heights). If you don’t want to use harissa in shakshuka, add a few generous pinches of cayenne pepper.
This recipe makes use of canned whole tomatoes, which I always have in my pantry, but you can use lovely garden tomatoes if making shakshuka in the summer or fall. Shakshuka is wonderful at any time of day, just be sure to serve chunks of good white bread or warm pita bread alongside to dunk into the glorious sauce and wipe your plate clean.